Power Lock not working
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Hi,
I have 993 early 95. The power lock doesn't work. I always have to lock and unlock the driver and passenger side manually.
Is this a common problem, as I search and didn't find anything?
What should I check?
Thanks!
Patrick
I have 993 early 95. The power lock doesn't work. I always have to lock and unlock the driver and passenger side manually.
Is this a common problem, as I search and didn't find anything?
What should I check?
Thanks!
Patrick
#2
Burning Brakes
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I'd start with fuse in the Frunk. Do the doors lock from the center console?
If not the fuse, it could be the switch inside. Do some searching on here, this has been covered a lot.Here is one link to start:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l-locking.html
If not the fuse, it could be the switch inside. Do some searching on here, this has been covered a lot.Here is one link to start:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l-locking.html
#3
Burning Brakes
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Just had another thought. The alarm/ central locking system module is under the passenger seat. You may want to take a look to make sure everthing is plugged in securely. This may or may not involve removing the seat but that is not hard to do.
#4
Rennlist Member
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The alarm/door lock control module has it's own fuse, (S in the lower pic) between the two connectors. The unit is placed under the passenger seat.
Cheers,
Tore
![](http://www.mikest.com/cars/993remote2.jpg)
Cheers,
Tore
![](http://www.mikest.com/cars/993remote2.jpg)
![](http://www.porschearchives.info/porsche-928-repair/images/2129_887_1984.png)
#6
Burning Brakes
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I know it's a 15 Amp fuse, just not sure of the type. I would be surprised if it were a different type than used in the front fusebox. Others here can confirm.
Yes, you can replace just the fuse.
When or if you do make sure to test the system to see if the fuse blows again. If so, you probably have a short.
Yes, you can replace just the fuse.
When or if you do make sure to test the system to see if the fuse blows again. If so, you probably have a short.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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I know it's a 15 Amp fuse, just not sure of the type. I would be surprised if it were a different type than used in the front fusebox. Others here can confirm.
Yes, you can replace just the fuse.
When or if you do make sure to test the system to see if the fuse blows again. If so, you probably have a short.
Yes, you can replace just the fuse.
When or if you do make sure to test the system to see if the fuse blows again. If so, you probably have a short.
So question if a short exists--where would be the best place to start looking for the source? As soon as I replaced the fuse it went again...
#9
Burning Brakes
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Perhaps, to make this process more efficient, you could start at the ACM and follow where the wiring goes looking for cracks, etc...
I'd love to know where you end up finding it.
#10
Three Wheelin'
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I am by no means an electrical expert. I have read others start to track down shorts by examining the wiring at points in the car where the wiring is subject to movement. For example, someone found a short in the wiring harness in the front trunk, driver side where the wiring moves every time you open the trunk. You are looking for points along the wire where the insulation is cracked or missing. If the bare wire touches the metal of the car you have a short. Another spot is where the wiring harness comes out of the frame and into the doors.
Perhaps, to make this process more efficient, you could start at the ACM and follow where the wiring goes looking for cracks, etc...
I'd love to know where you end up finding it.
Perhaps, to make this process more efficient, you could start at the ACM and follow where the wiring goes looking for cracks, etc...
I'd love to know where you end up finding it.
Thanks for the tips!
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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THANKS TORE! ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I didn't have access to the car before but as soon as I could I looked under the seat (did not even need to remove it) and replaced the fuse.
An other problem solved!
Patrick
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I didn't have access to the car before but as soon as I could I looked under the seat (did not even need to remove it) and replaced the fuse.
An other problem solved!
Patrick
#12
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am by no means an electrical expert. I have read others start to track down shorts by examining the wiring at points in the car where the wiring is subject to movement. For example, someone found a short in the wiring harness in the front trunk, driver side where the wiring moves every time you open the trunk. You are looking for points along the wire where the insulation is cracked or missing. If the bare wire touches the metal of the car you have a short. Another spot is where the wiring harness comes out of the frame and into the doors.
Perhaps, to make this process more efficient, you could start at the ACM and follow where the wiring goes looking for cracks, etc...
I'd love to know where you end up finding it.
Perhaps, to make this process more efficient, you could start at the ACM and follow where the wiring goes looking for cracks, etc...
I'd love to know where you end up finding it.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Closing the loop, just an update for anyone who's having this issue. I replace the fuse in the alarm control unit under the seat. Thanks to RLers. I thought it had solved the problem but not totally.
My door lock solenoid (actuator) were broken. I replaced them and door locks perfectly.
Here's a link with pictures for DIY : https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-actuator.html
My door lock solenoid (actuator) were broken. I replaced them and door locks perfectly.
Here's a link with pictures for DIY : https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-actuator.html
#14
Rennlist Member
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Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but my central locking isn’t working. Switch in the console doesn’t do anything, nor does the remote. The immobilizer works as designed though, and locks out the ignition until it gets cycled using the remote. I was hoping it was the fuse, so pulled the passenger seat and found that the fuse looked fine. Replaced it anyway, but no joy. Any easy / obvious next step now that I know the fuse isn’t the problem?
#15
Instructor
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Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but my central locking isn’t working. Switch in the console doesn’t do anything, nor does the remote. The immobilizer works as designed though, and locks out the ignition until it gets cycled using the remote. I was hoping it was the fuse, so pulled the passenger seat and found that the fuse looked fine. Replaced it anyway, but no joy. Any easy / obvious next step now that I know the fuse isn’t the problem?
- connections to the alarm control unit
- fuse on the alarm control unit
- connections for the switch
- ensured that the problem didn't start when the new headunit was installed
Next step is to check that the switch is functional. Not sure what is left after that? Actuators?