jg291446

Hi,

I have 993 early 95. The power lock doesn't work. I always have to lock and unlock the driver and passenger side manually.

Is this a common problem, as I search and didn't find anything?

What should I check?

Thanks!

Patrick

Vorsicht

I'd start with fuse in the Frunk. Do the doors lock from the center console?

If not the fuse, it could be the switch inside. Do some searching on here, this has been covered a lot.Here is one link to start:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l-locking.html

Vorsicht

Just had another thought. The alarm/ central locking system module is under the passenger seat. You may want to take a look to make sure everthing is plugged in securely. This may or may not involve removing the seat but that is not hard to do.

ToreB

The alarm/door lock control module has it's own fuse, (S in the lower pic) between the two connectors. The unit is placed under the passenger seat.
Cheers,
Tore

jg291446

What's the part # of that fuse? Can I change that fuse alone or need to replace the whole control module?

Thanks for your help!

Vorsicht

I know it's a 15 Amp fuse, just not sure of the type. I would be surprised if it were a different type than used in the front fusebox. Others here can confirm.

Yes, you can replace just the fuse.

When or if you do make sure to test the system to see if the fuse blows again. If so, you probably have a short.

lopro

great advice, I didn't know about this fuse.

BSL

This is exactly the fuse on the unit.

So question if a short exists--where would be the best place to start looking for the source? As soon as I replaced the fuse it went again...

Vorsicht

I am by no means an electrical expert. I have read others start to track down shorts by examining the wiring at points in the car where the wiring is subject to movement. For example, someone found a short in the wiring harness in the front trunk, driver side where the wiring moves every time you open the trunk. You are looking for points along the wire where the insulation is cracked or missing. If the bare wire touches the metal of the car you have a short. Another spot is where the wiring harness comes out of the frame and into the doors.

Perhaps, to make this process more efficient, you could start at the ACM and follow where the wiring goes looking for cracks, etc...

I'd love to know where you end up finding it.

BSL

Ahh, a fun one then... Sounds like a project that may take a bit of time to figure out. Will probably need to wait a few weeks until back from vacation, but if I can figure it out, will definitely report back.

Thanks for the tips!

jg291446

THANKS TORE!

I didn't have access to the car before but as soon as I could I looked under the seat (did not even need to remove it) and replaced the fuse.

An other problem solved!

Patrick

BSL

I quickly got discouraged when starting to look at the wire harness running through the driver-side door. Seemed a logical place to start as my problem originally started after getting out of the car and locking it. Today I took a step back for a low-hanging fruit option--the interior light. I took it out and part of the compression fitting to hold it in place was cracked. When looking at it, it seemed the connections could be hitting the metal of the window frame, so I disconnected the fitting. When I tried a new fuse in the control module, it did not immediately pop, so it looks like a broken interior light fitting was the culprit in my case.

jg291446

Closing the loop, just an update for anyone who's having this issue. I replace the fuse in the alarm control unit under the seat. Thanks to RLers. I thought it had solved the problem but not totally.

My door lock solenoid (actuator) were broken. I replaced them and door locks perfectly.

Here's a link with pictures for DIY : https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-actuator.html

mathfuzzy

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but my central locking isn’t working. Switch in the console doesn’t do anything, nor does the remote. The immobilizer works as designed though, and locks out the ignition until it gets cycled using the remote. I was hoping it was the fuse, so pulled the passenger seat and found that the fuse looked fine. Replaced it anyway, but no joy. Any easy / obvious next step now that I know the fuse isn’t the problem?

hootie

I'm in a similar situation so far I've checked:
- connections to the alarm control unit
- fuse on the alarm control unit
- connections for the switch
- ensured that the problem didn't start when the new headunit was installed

Next step is to check that the switch is functional. Not sure what is left after that? Actuators?