is it me or does this brake line flare look jacked?
06-29-2013, 09:45 PM
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
is it me or does this brake line flare look jacked?
alllrrrighty, the "cheap and easy brake line hose swap" project continues... today is day two.
replaced front hard lines and installed new hoses. all good.
replaced rear brake line from rear brake distributor fitting to the hub carrier (where it meets the new SS hose) and the fitting would not seat into the distributor fitting thats attached to the car.
'96 993tt
all we could surmise is that the flare appears to be asymmetrical and caused it not seat into the junction.
OR
the junction is damaged somehow....
OR
the replacement line was the wrong part... doubtful...
if a new line is purchased and the distributor fitting is damaged it could damage the new line... if a new distributor is installed, whos to say that that the 3 existing hard lines that attach to it will not have the same problem not fitting into the new distributor fitting...
quad took my 993 home, now ive got this gnarly turbo hogging up my garage... help!
replaced front hard lines and installed new hoses. all good.
replaced rear brake line from rear brake distributor fitting to the hub carrier (where it meets the new SS hose) and the fitting would not seat into the distributor fitting thats attached to the car.
'96 993tt
all we could surmise is that the flare appears to be asymmetrical and caused it not seat into the junction.
OR
the junction is damaged somehow....
OR
the replacement line was the wrong part... doubtful...
if a new line is purchased and the distributor fitting is damaged it could damage the new line... if a new distributor is installed, whos to say that that the 3 existing hard lines that attach to it will not have the same problem not fitting into the new distributor fitting...
quad took my 993 home, now ive got this gnarly turbo hogging up my garage... help!
Last edited by EMBPilot; 06-30-2013 at 10:32 AM.
06-30-2013, 05:28 AM
#3
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im changing my front line right now as the right line off the dist is cross threaded from some previous flair that came out something like that...
looking at your flair Id say its either alittle flat on one side or its too weird in the left either way they do not appear to be the same. I would snip that end off an re flair it 1-2mm under
I found that the lines are quite tight in their white plastic mounts and it can be overlooked how easly the fitting can cross thread an old corroded distributor. The alum seems quite soft in the dist. and with the tension on the line it can pull to one side very easly when trying to start the fitting into the threads. As any alum threaded hole one has to be quite soft not to tear her hinges out.
as a rule they say to change atleast the fluid every 2 years but id say flushing every year is not a bad habit to get into... often overlooked how important this really is.
looking at your flair Id say its either alittle flat on one side or its too weird in the left either way they do not appear to be the same. I would snip that end off an re flair it 1-2mm under
I found that the lines are quite tight in their white plastic mounts and it can be overlooked how easly the fitting can cross thread an old corroded distributor. The alum seems quite soft in the dist. and with the tension on the line it can pull to one side very easly when trying to start the fitting into the threads. As any alum threaded hole one has to be quite soft not to tear her hinges out.
as a rule they say to change atleast the fluid every 2 years but id say flushing every year is not a bad habit to get into... often overlooked how important this really is.
06-30-2013, 07:42 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
I found that the lines are quite tight in their white plastic mounts and it can be overlooked how easly the fitting can cross thread an old corroded distributor. The alum seems quite soft in the dist. and with the tension on the line it can pull to one side very easly when trying to start the fitting into the threads. As any alum threaded hole one has to be quite soft not to tear her hinges .
If this is the case then i feel like its def what must have happened...
we kept it angled and loose so it had room to align itself. this particular one would only thread about 3 turns before it would 'stop' by hand... if i have an auto parts store put a new bubble flare on that fitting the line will be too short and def wont line up. the tolerances are so close with these things they are so cheesy and small...
Last edited by EMBPilot; 06-30-2013 at 12:23 PM.
06-30-2013, 11:56 AM
#5
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I cant be sure thats what happend to your line, It almost looks like a poor flair job. I have lines on order at the dealership because I want proper flairs.
I took my dist right out and clamped it in a vise, threaded in a new fitting just to see that the front right brake line was not infact tapped on an angle as everytime I tried to thread the line in it just went in xthreaded.
unless its angled for whatever reason im ordering anew dist and frt right line. Brake fluid is highly corrosive and may or may not have deoxidized the dist from possibly waiting for the brake lines on order or spilage apon bleeding. who knows 10+ years old brakedist and brake fluid is known to corrode metals overnight. more than likely its bent line and tight white plastic holders doing a good job as Porsche parts are designed to do that's making it hard to get the line into the dist straight. I say your bang on about the tight tolleranges. Id just get a flair tool or order a new line.
from what I know about brake fittings they have to fit snug and thread in straight and true or its just a leaky mess.
How are you planning to bleed? I choose a motiv pwr bleeder, cant wait to try it out.
Interesting pics, what lift is that>?
I took my dist right out and clamped it in a vise, threaded in a new fitting just to see that the front right brake line was not infact tapped on an angle as everytime I tried to thread the line in it just went in xthreaded.
unless its angled for whatever reason im ordering anew dist and frt right line. Brake fluid is highly corrosive and may or may not have deoxidized the dist from possibly waiting for the brake lines on order or spilage apon bleeding. who knows 10+ years old brakedist and brake fluid is known to corrode metals overnight. more than likely its bent line and tight white plastic holders doing a good job as Porsche parts are designed to do that's making it hard to get the line into the dist straight. I say your bang on about the tight tolleranges. Id just get a flair tool or order a new line.
from what I know about brake fittings they have to fit snug and thread in straight and true or its just a leaky mess.
How are you planning to bleed? I choose a motiv pwr bleeder, cant wait to try it out.
Interesting pics, what lift is that>?
06-30-2013, 12:05 PM
#6
Banned
Thread Starter
we're getting very good at bleeding, 3 993's and so far 3 sets of these lines. down to the last line though stopped us in our tracks.
we took the old line, cut it, folded it back on itself in a vice and attached it back into the rear brake distributor fitting to stop the leaking for now while the new parts make their way here.
the plan of attack at this point, is order the new rear hard line, order new rear brake distributor fitting, when the parts come we'll check fit outside of the car, then install the parts and hope the 3 existing lines play nice with the new distributor fitting.
motive power bleeder is key.
lift is an Atlas mid rise TD 6MR
there is LOTS of space around the rear distributor fitting, we are very thankful of that. essentially sitting in lawn chairs casually reaching up there. I do not envy you replacing your front distributor fitting because that one looks SUPER tight. the passenger side front hard line looks very long and tricky to snake across as well.
i might try local auto parts store to see if they can put a new flare on that end but i suspect at this point, like you said, the distributor fitting is cross threaded and shot. arghhh
we took the old line, cut it, folded it back on itself in a vice and attached it back into the rear brake distributor fitting to stop the leaking for now while the new parts make their way here.
the plan of attack at this point, is order the new rear hard line, order new rear brake distributor fitting, when the parts come we'll check fit outside of the car, then install the parts and hope the 3 existing lines play nice with the new distributor fitting.
motive power bleeder is key.
lift is an Atlas mid rise TD 6MR
there is LOTS of space around the rear distributor fitting, we are very thankful of that. essentially sitting in lawn chairs casually reaching up there. I do not envy you replacing your front distributor fitting because that one looks SUPER tight. the passenger side front hard line looks very long and tricky to snake across as well.
i might try local auto parts store to see if they can put a new flare on that end but i suspect at this point, like you said, the distributor fitting is cross threaded and shot. arghhh
06-30-2013, 12:09 PM
#7
Race Director
well, its my ****box that is causing the problem.
When i had the new line into the junction fitting, it looked crooked. The threads in the line nut are fine.
When the old line came out, once I cracked it loose, it spun out by hand.
I'm utterly confused and frustrated.
When i had the new line into the junction fitting, it looked crooked. The threads in the line nut are fine.
When the old line came out, once I cracked it loose, it spun out by hand.
I'm utterly confused and frustrated.
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06-30-2013, 12:11 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
You guys are persistent. GL with the project. Fitting the rear SS line is a bit further down the list right now after getting the front ones done with you guys. Looking at this is going to move it lower...
06-30-2013, 12:12 PM
#9
Race Director
smart man Chao.
what a pain in the *** for something that likely will make no difference.
btw kevin, your brake pedal feels good, much firmer than mine.
what a pain in the *** for something that likely will make no difference.
btw kevin, your brake pedal feels good, much firmer than mine.
06-30-2013, 12:18 PM
#11
Banned
Thread Starter
i believe it is hosed, and i believe these threads have a taper to them, not like usual machine threads, i dont think we can go in there and just tap it. but im curious what others will say.
06-30-2013, 12:28 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
I will say that my brake pedal feels firmer after the flush and front SS line install. Not sure if a flush would have made it firmer or it is the combination but I do have to adjust my heel toe due to a firmer pedal....
BTW Oliver, you can have my heated comfort seats if you still find the 996 sport seats too narrow. Just let me know.
06-30-2013, 12:38 PM
#13
Race Director
yeah, the distributor blocks are about $100, new line is another $30, so not the end of the world.
That said, there are 3 other fittings on the junction, so the more lines you mess with, the more of a disaster this could become.
Thanks for the offer on the seats! right now, I'm still getting used to the GT3 seats so, we'll see.
Glad to hear your pedal firmed up.
That said, there are 3 other fittings on the junction, so the more lines you mess with, the more of a disaster this could become.
Thanks for the offer on the seats! right now, I'm still getting used to the GT3 seats so, we'll see.
Glad to hear your pedal firmed up.
06-30-2013, 06:31 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
Lets hope the guys at SN can find the parts quickly.
Oliver.....was that you in the polar silver 993 near New Haven CT? Those fister IIs were wailing.
Oliver.....was that you in the polar silver 993 near New Haven CT?
Those fister IIs were wailing.