Anyone local that has a PST2 diagnostic tool that can assist with issue isolation?

 

"TRACKRAT, you're a knowledable guy...Do you have any suggestions to offer to the posters plight? After reading your post, I'm thinking maybe the ignition mechanism as mentioned by Gordo, or as you indicated the clutch micro."
Thanks for the compliment but I'm just so old, I've had the opportunity to experience a lot of frustrating things like this. In my case, it was the clutch microswitch at the base of the pedal cluster. Has the OP by-passed this as I suggested? Here:https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ro-switch.html

 

Schtoot, can't tell from the posts what year your car is.

If '95 it won't have the clutch microswitch.

Gordo

 

Gordo,
When you rectified your issue, were you ever able to isolate a single point of failure in the components you replaced?

If you did the work yourself, I would imagine you would have been testing the system with each component you replaced.

If you had it done, I could see the mechanic simply installing all the components and not reallly taking the extra time to isolate the single point of failure in your system.

Can you please advise on your course of action? The quote above sounds awfully expensive!

Thank you much...

 

Had the dealer do the work since they seemed to be the only shop here that had the immob system knowledge.

They replaced the ignition switch and that cured the problem (mostly) for a few months.
Then it started the hinky behavior again and it continued to get worse over the next several months.

Back to the shop where they diagnosed the immob control module as fried.

We suspected the ignition keyway (my term for where we insert the key) was so badly worn it was sending compromised signals to the immob module...perhaps stray voltage?

Ordered new keyway and integral steering wheel lock, which took less than a week from the factory.

Immob has been working just fine since the work was done, about three years ago.

Total cost was close to $3k for parts and labor.

Just remembered that it often took some sensitive key jiggling to engage the starter; this in addition to fobbing the damn thing several times.

Gordo

 

I too have a 95 993. Bad news is that it came with the immobilizer. I have always had problems unlocking with the remote. You have to practically hold the remote against the windshield and press several times to get it to unlock. I use to think it was a reception issue because changing the remote/Fob battery didn't have any effect. I have two remotes/fobs but same issue with each. My old Land Cruiser had a similar issue. Turns out they have a crappy antenna under the seat you can lengthen and then unlock the truck from ten or hundred of yards away instead of 5 feet.

But I noticed when I get in the car when already unlocked, (didn't have to use the unreliable remote) after turning the key to the start position and pressing the fob button, sometimes 2 presses work, usually a dozen + times with the remote button before the starter became hot or immobilizer deactivated.

Would you point your finger first at the immobilizer unit itself, probably not the remotes and with the unlocking issue when using remote, I don't think it would be the actual lock cylinder/ignition swith/keyway issue.

I'm starting to think just buy new PCM without immobilizer and get aftermarket alarm.

 

"Anyone local that has a PST2 diagnostic tool that can assist with issue isolation?"

There're no diagnostics in the immobilizer, only the alarm ECU.

The functioning of the ignition switch, i.e. the key detection - key insertion
and removal, is critical to the operation of the immobilizer, especially the
coding of keys. The key detection operation (mechanical part) can be observed
by the 'click' heard when the key is removed.

 

Interesting.. My 96 has no clutch out non-start function. I guess it is a value added feature that I can drive the car around on its starter if I wanted to, Hey does that make my 993 an electric car or a gas /electric hybrid?
Andy

 

Car is a 1998 6 speed.