NC TRACKRAT

Having intermittent start problems with the '98. Have removed the floorboard and find TWO microswitches. (No, not talking about the brake light switch). One is mounted vertically and attached to a bracket next to the brake pedal and the other is horizontally mounted on the floor to the left of the accelerator pedal. Both are actuated by the clutch pedal. Which one allows the IMMOBILIZER to function when closed? When identified, I'm just going to bridge the wires to take the switch out of the equation and see if that does the trick. I'm "Old School" and never start a car in gear anyway. TIA!

ReinerFink

Have you tried replacing the DME relay? These are a common cause of intermittent start issues. Also, does your car crank and not fire, or does the immobilizer not un-mobilize or... more description?

Basal Skull

By immobilizer function, do you mean being able to start the car without pushing the clutch in?
The horizontal one by the gas pedal is the one that if pushed down allows the car to start without pushing the clutch in. You don't need to take it out, just put a zip tie on it to hold the switch down... starting without having to push in the clutch also saves the bearings - which can wear with upgraded pressure plates if you need to push the clutch in at start when there is no oil circulating.

NC TRACKRAT

I don't believe it's the DME relay since the starter doesn't actuate, solenoid doesn't click, etc. IMMOBILIZER light in clock goes out but nothing...nada. Prefer not to just tie down actuating arm of microswitch since, if the switch is bad, I'll still have the problem. Will disconnect switch and bridge wires, then see if that eliminates the problem. BTW, what's the function of the vertical microswitch? Cruise control disconnect? Not shown on parts diagram.

NC TRACKRAT

Hmmmm. Clutch microswitch appears to have the arm in the normally closed position. When clutch pedal is depressed, the arm opens, closing the switch. Tying the switch arm closed would seem to keep it from opening, thereby keeping the car from starting. NE1 care to confirm my finding?

helmet155

When the switch is compressed, then you can start the car.

I wire tied mine down so I can start without pushing the clutch in - good for cars with a TT pressure plate like mine.

I do think if this microswitch is going bad it could cause starter engagement issues as you noted, especially if the immobilizer light is not illuminated.

The clutch interlock is the vertical one, which is to the left of the clutch master.

There is also another microswitch - for disabling cruise control if you push in the clutch pedal, that is the horizontal one located under the clutch master cylinder.

See this thread for some pics, compliments of MarkD:

http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11498

NC TRACKRAT

helmet155-
Many thanks! Appreciate the tip & pics at the reutterwerk forum. I think I'll bridge the microswitch out of the circuit. If the switch is intermttent, it could be open even if the arm were tied down in the closed position. Would hate to assume it wasn't a factor and go off on a "wild goose chase".
I wonder why MarkD said this switch was independent of the DriveBlock system when it most certainly is an integral part...one we fortunately can by-pass!

helmet155

Mark is right, technically it is not part of driveblock as it is not wired into the security system in any way.

Although it does have a small measure of security, most modern vehicles employ the same safety switch.

Garth S

Could someone cross post Marks pics here ( if it's OK Mark?) - I'm not a member of that forum, so cannot pull up pics.

My car starts without depressing the clutch - so I'll check to see if that particular mod was made by the PO next time under ..... I generally (90+%) start with clutch out .... but find the greatest convenience when needing to start the engine with the car on a hoist - beats clambering inside, or pushing the clutch in with a piece of 2x4 ... as you reach through the window ...

NC TRACKRAT

Update: Just finished the job. As I indicated, the best way to do this is to trace the leads from the microswitch, down to the floorboard. You'll find a red two conductor connector wrapped up in foam padding. Remove the padding, disconnect and make a U-shaped jumper from a short (about 2-3 inches) length of 14 ga. solid wire (scrap ROMEX house wiring). Strip about 1/2" of insulation from each end and stick into the female contacts (the side going away from the microswitch. You can use some electrical tape to secure both sides from flopping around down there or just tuck under the carpet. Much easier than tying the arm of the microswitch down and, as I mentioned, if the microswitch should fail internally in the open position, you'll never start the car until you figure out the switch is the culprit! BTW, you don't need to disconnect the accelerator pedal to get the plywood floorboard loose. A thin Philips head screwdriver will reach round the pedal.
p.s. to Garth S: Go ahead and register for that forum. Only takes a couple of minutes and at no cost.

Family Deboer

Hey all - lots of posts about this clutch switch issue. Mine is definitely a switch issue.

Can you please confirm which is the Clutch switch? the Horizontal one or the Vertical one by the floor? Two different posts, 2 different a answers.

So every time you press the clutch the switch clicks - so to disable it, do you tie it up in the "pinched" position?

its only temporary till I get it fixed

mike cap

The clutch interlock switch that prevents the car from starting when the clutch is not depressed is the vertical one that’s easily accessible. It’s on a flat plate and held in place by two nuts. The other switch by the floor is for the cruise control and disables the cruise when the clutch is depressed.

If your issue is no crank or intermittent crank when the clutch is depressed it could be one or two other squawks.

Yes, tying the metal arm closed will close the circuit. The switch is normally open. If this solves the problem you’re set. Theses switches fail for sure.

Chased this intermittent issue for a year. Finally sorted it out dumb trial and error. Call me if I can help. 315-246-2173. Very frustrating problem.

NC TRACKRAT

This issue arose just after we had purchased the C2S and, after a couple of embarrassing and exasperating experiences of not being able to start the car (on club outings, no less!) my wife thought I'd bought a "lemon". Fortunately, by-passing the switch solved the problem.

Family Deboer

Thanks!!! Worked like a charm. Beautiful