Official Tie Rod Pinning Tool Wait List Thread
#258
Rennlist Member
@Garth I am going to attempt to drill the pilot and final hole with my press. It is not clear to me where exactly you are to drill the hole in relation to the inner tie rod male and female ends. Can you help clarify? Eyeballing it looks like about the middle of the inner...
Thanks!
Thanks!
The inner tie rod half is largely contained within a cylindrical 'can' of mild steer, ~ 1.5" diameter and 2.7" long ( on the outboard side extents the female threaded coupling to accept the outer tie rod threaded end, for adjustment of alignment toe-in. ..... the inner end has the ball swivel to attach to the rack rod)
The drill point is 19mm/ 3/4 inwards from the inner side of the 'can' that faces the rack/ball swivel. ie., inboard side of the inner tie rod
A through hole here avoids any contact with the outer tie rod threaded adjustment zone ..... as said long ago, to do the reverse will pin the two rod halves together ==== and seriously pi$$ off your alignment guy!!
PS - there's a good pic above in post #41. Alternately, search out my old posts on 'Anatomy of a tie rod'. Recall several pics there re pin location.
#259
Rennlist Member
Thanks @Garth S crystal clear!
I found your other thread here: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...rod-inner.html
I noticed our originally used a Grade 10/12 hex bolt and then later switched to a pin. Is there any reason why one is better than the other approach? Seems like driling a hole, tapping it, then sending a hardened steel bolt through it and loctite would make it more secure than a crush pin?
Thanks
I found your other thread here: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...rod-inner.html
I noticed our originally used a Grade 10/12 hex bolt and then later switched to a pin. Is there any reason why one is better than the other approach? Seems like driling a hole, tapping it, then sending a hardened steel bolt through it and loctite would make it more secure than a crush pin?
Thanks
#260
Rennlist Member
Thanks @Garth S crystal clear!
I found your other thread here: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...rod-inner.html
I noticed our originally used a Grade 10/12 hex bolt and then later switched to a pin. Is there any reason why one is better than the other approach? Seems like driling a hole, tapping it, then sending a hardened steel bolt through it and loctite would make it more secure than a crush pin?
Thanks
I found your other thread here: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...rod-inner.html
I noticed our originally used a Grade 10/12 hex bolt and then later switched to a pin. Is there any reason why one is better than the other approach? Seems like driling a hole, tapping it, then sending a hardened steel bolt through it and loctite would make it more secure than a crush pin?
Thanks
That then provides a better locking of the two components, and neutralizes the effect of the rubber vibration dampening /steering 'slop'
#265
Sorry to bump a dead thread but anyone knows where the kit is at now?
Matthew
Matthew