Official Tie Rod Pinning Tool Wait List Thread
#213
Rennlist Member
Someone eventually will need to buy some more pins. Those are running a bit low.
After I installed the pins. I filled in the hole with some black silicone. Though it might
be a good idea to seal things up.
#214
The tool worked perfect for me. I was the second to last person who used it.
Someone eventually will need to buy some more pins. Those are running a bit low.
After I installed the pins. I filled in the hole with some black silicone. Though it might
be a good idea to seal things up.
Someone eventually will need to buy some more pins. Those are running a bit low.
After I installed the pins. I filled in the hole with some black silicone. Though it might
be a good idea to seal things up.
#215
Rennlist Member
The tool worked perfect for me. I was the second to last person who used it.
Someone eventually will need to buy some more pins. Those are running a bit low.
After I installed the pins. I filled in the hole with some black silicone. Though it might
be a good idea to seal things up.
Someone eventually will need to buy some more pins. Those are running a bit low.
After I installed the pins. I filled in the hole with some black silicone. Though it might
be a good idea to seal things up.
Last edited by MarinS4; 03-31-2017 at 11:25 AM.
#217
Rennlist Member
Wow - glad to see the 'pinning' team still active .... for it has been alive for several years now.
The age old nemesis persists - the 'tool' can never be in enough places at the same /desired time .... sort of on the spirit of the Heisenberg Uncertainty principle.
For anyone of even modest mechanical ability, it is only a few min to fabricate a jig that will serve you well .. and perhaps a couple of buddies: this may alieve the interminable wait.
Go to the basement or local hardware store and get a 6-12" piece of Schedule 40 1 1/2" ABS drain pipe ( std drain line under your sink), and a small can of the pipe glue. Hacksaw a 3/4" ring off one end, and section that ring into ~ 3/4" squares. Stack ~ 3 of these pieces with curvatures matching, and glue them progressively to build a stack near one end of the pipe stub. This will pass no beauty test, but who's to know.
For dimensions, 19mm in from one end for the pilot hole, 38mm id of the pipe, and total length, 68mm (3/4", 1 1/2", and 2 2/3" [2 11/16]).
Drill a 5/32" pilot hole through the diameter INTO the bottom of the glued up stack ... it doesn't matter if the drill penetrates the entire stack ..... now, hacksaw out a 'saddle' to the above dimensions, and finish drilling the pilot on the radius/diameter line.
It should now approximate the original jig - will try to link to that LINK. Slap it on with a hose clamp, and run your 5/32 pilot through the inner tie rod - yes, drill 19mm inboard from the rack side: your alignment guy will charge extra if you happen to drill & pin the outer rod half ...
Hand hold the drill to chase the pilot with a 5/16", lightly grease the pin, tap in ...
A jig can be set up with many household items, but this is worth a try - and costs practically nothing.
The age old nemesis persists - the 'tool' can never be in enough places at the same /desired time .... sort of on the spirit of the Heisenberg Uncertainty principle.
For anyone of even modest mechanical ability, it is only a few min to fabricate a jig that will serve you well .. and perhaps a couple of buddies: this may alieve the interminable wait.
Go to the basement or local hardware store and get a 6-12" piece of Schedule 40 1 1/2" ABS drain pipe ( std drain line under your sink), and a small can of the pipe glue. Hacksaw a 3/4" ring off one end, and section that ring into ~ 3/4" squares. Stack ~ 3 of these pieces with curvatures matching, and glue them progressively to build a stack near one end of the pipe stub. This will pass no beauty test, but who's to know.
For dimensions, 19mm in from one end for the pilot hole, 38mm id of the pipe, and total length, 68mm (3/4", 1 1/2", and 2 2/3" [2 11/16]).
Drill a 5/32" pilot hole through the diameter INTO the bottom of the glued up stack ... it doesn't matter if the drill penetrates the entire stack ..... now, hacksaw out a 'saddle' to the above dimensions, and finish drilling the pilot on the radius/diameter line.
It should now approximate the original jig - will try to link to that LINK. Slap it on with a hose clamp, and run your 5/32 pilot through the inner tie rod - yes, drill 19mm inboard from the rack side: your alignment guy will charge extra if you happen to drill & pin the outer rod half ...
Hand hold the drill to chase the pilot with a 5/16", lightly grease the pin, tap in ...
A jig can be set up with many household items, but this is worth a try - and costs practically nothing.
#218
Rennlist Member
this is very helpful and sounds easier than waiting. 2 clarifications, sorry if dumb:
1. The above in quotes I am not sure I'm understanding what the measurements refer to.
2. Seems important to drill exactly the correct depth to not penetrate the opposite wall of the inner TR. What is that depth from the TR exterior?
3. In your original post you mentioned wanting an approach to fixing the TR's that would be reversible if it all failed. How would you reverse this?
thanks again for the original posts and this.
#219
Rennlist Member
Garth
this is very helpful and sounds easier than waiting. 2 clarifications, sorry if dumb:
1. The above in quotes I am not sure I'm understanding what the measurements refer to.
2. Seems important to drill exactly the correct depth to not penetrate the opposite wall of the inner TR. What is that depth from the TR exterior?
3. In your original post you mentioned wanting an approach to fixing the TR's that would be reversible if it all failed. How would you reverse this?
thanks again for the original posts and this.
this is very helpful and sounds easier than waiting. 2 clarifications, sorry if dumb:
1. The above in quotes I am not sure I'm understanding what the measurements refer to.
2. Seems important to drill exactly the correct depth to not penetrate the opposite wall of the inner TR. What is that depth from the TR exterior?
3. In your original post you mentioned wanting an approach to fixing the TR's that would be reversible if it all failed. How would you reverse this?
thanks again for the original posts and this.
"quotes' are in inches .... for the metric handicapped .... 19mm = 3/4", etc.
In starting the pilot hole through the jig ( on the diameter line), your bit may not be long enough to fully exit the glued on stack of plastic .... so, cut out the saddle and finish the hole from the inside of the saddle .... the important part is that the pilot be on a true radius line to the cross section of the tie rod body.
When the jig is clamped on the inner TR body, the pilot ( and subsequent 5/16") holes must completely pass through the tie rod body: that is the way that the 5/16 X 1 1/2" roll pin anchors the hidden inner can to the visible surfaces of the outer can.
Trust that to be not more confusing
#220
Rennlist Member
Ah. So the hole is intended to go completely through the tierod assembly. For some reason your cut-away picture with bolt lying partially acroos was stuck in my head as how the rolledpin was to end up.
Makes sense
Makes sense
#221
DPRM is shipping the jig to me, as no one else PMd him an address. It will be here late next week sometime (coming from Canada) I have a couple people local that want to use it and then I'll sent it on to the next person (AZ Targa)
#222
Thats strange, seeing that I did PM him my address...
#225
I just wanted to consolidate the list for the Jig. It looked like a few people got skipped that couldn't be reached. If you got skipped PM me.
Used the Jig
oLuB8UchKxp
911F1
DRPM
Mtl
JlBarnett
Skipped (MIA)
TargaTuur69
996 GT2
jskylarwilson
AZ Targa (shipped to)
Waiting/Queued
Carmen
Marin S4
Drb930
shadow993
Used the Jig
oLuB8UchKxp
911F1
DRPM
Mtl
JlBarnett
Skipped (MIA)
TargaTuur69
996 GT2
jskylarwilson
AZ Targa (shipped to)
Waiting/Queued
Carmen
Marin S4
Drb930
shadow993