Cupcar

Two tips on rear suspension I found. The 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing plate have been upgraded in a TSB to 10.9 which may already be on a 96 and don't torque frame fasteners until all fasteners and parts are loosely in place and frame on chassis. Then i torqued 4 main vertical bolts followed by 4 hoop bolts doing sides first and top 2 last.

Bill Verburg

mr_bock, nice work
You guys that take the time to clean every nook and cranny knock my socks off. I'm in awe

mr_bock

Cupcar, Thanks for the tips!!!!!! I will search the TSB and see if I am Ok.

Cleaning everything helps get ride of road crap and saves weight
Gives me a chance to get close and personal with my 993...

Cupcar

Just look at bolt tops if 10.9 you are good to go. If 8.8 then new ones cheap at dealer.

mr_bock

Cupcar,
I just took a look and mine are 10.9!!!!! I am good to go.
Thanks for the info!!!

Cupcar

My 1995's were 8.8, so I guess model year 1996 on OK with 10.9

mr_bock

While I was messing around with the rear suspension and hubs, I noticed some slop in the rear bearings. Ordered the front/rear bearing puller-installer tool and SKF bearings for the front and rear. I don't want to have to take the car apart anytime soon!!!

Next month I will be ordering new shocks and springs.

Mike J

Did you check the torque on the rear drive shaft? I had a car a while back in the shop, noisy rear bearing and some slop - turned out the main driveshaft nut was on with about 30 ft-lbs - cranked it up to 340 ft-lbs, and noise and slop went away....

mr_bock

I had just the hub in hand, no axle shaft attached. I could wiggle the wheel mounting disc back and forth. Gotta be the bearing. Being pro-active, just replace them all!!!

Hope to get the engine bay finished soon.

Will start disassembly of the front suspension soon.
Fun, fun, fun...

Mike J

I thought the axle shaft with a tightened nut will support the bearing, so with no axle shaft, the hub can show some slop that is not really there ...?

Cupcar

The bearing needs the compression force of the tightened hub and won't last long without it. Don't ask me how I know this.

993Porsche

Yep that sounds about right. When my left-rear bearing when out, it was loud as hell while driving. Then I used a dial indicator with the magnetic base to clearly see the dial move significantly (half the circumference) when turning the hub by hand while it was on the car. So I knew for sure that I had the bad bearing/wheel. For me to take that nut off, it took some serious effort.


Ken

Cupcar

I use a 3/4" drive on a breaker bar with a round bar handle that has a piece of tubing slipped over it. If my impact wrench fails to loosen the nut, I set up the 3/4 drive wrench and then step on the bar using my weight to loosen .

The tubing slides on the round bar to allow changes in length, so I calculate the length to apply the pound foot requirement with my full weight on the bar and apply a final torque with that after an initial tightening with my largest torque wrench.

mr_bock

Here is my long over due update of my 993 rebuild.

The engine compartment has a new Pelican Ultimate Sound Pad. I did not like the unfinished edge along the top edge of the pad. I bought a black abs window shutter and using a table saw, I cut a long 'L' shaped strip. Using a cardboard template, I was able to transfer the top edge stud locations to my 'trim' strip. Holes drilled, some trimming and help of a heat gun to add a twist at each end to match the car profile. The OEM buttons at each end are not secure enough to the stud so I need to find real screw on trim buttons. all else looks fine. I did use some 3M High Temp spray adhesive along the top 6" before final attachment.

Next are pix of the rear JRZ shocks installed, Less Weight, Looks Great!!!!

The engine reassembly is coming along. Lots of cleaning and installation of ARP hardware!!! Soon the new clutch, slave cylinder, etc... will allow mating the trans back to the engine.

More to follow...

lopro

subscribed - amazing work. impressive, please continue