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Installation thread for KONI FSD suspension - UPDATE #1

 
Old 01-04-2013, 06:00 PM
  #46  
crw
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Todays progess:

The nuts on the end of the eccentric bolts were pretty tight. I let them soak with some PB blaster overnight.



Unfortunately, you cannot get a 18mm deep impact socket on them do to the interferance of the heat exchangers.

I had to use a 18mm box wrench.

On the passenger side loosening the bolt required me to push upward on the wrench. I used a floor jack against the end of the wrench and off the bolt came.

On the driver's side I used a long scew driver to push the wrench downward (using the crossmember as my leverage and that worked to).


You run into some Porsche cruelty which does not allow you to remove the bolt on the driver's side due to interference of the heat exchanger:





Thanks to the helpful tip provided by Luftd993, I raised the engine a few millimeters for clearance and that worked.

I loosed the engine bolts at rear:



Then I loosened the bottom nuts on the engine mounts from below:





Both bolts are out now (alot of work for just 2 bolts)!



The end of the bar the connects the shock mount can now be dropped.



Enough for today, one of my dogs is hungry:

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Old 01-05-2013, 01:24 PM
  #47  
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Todays work:

The next step was to remove the connection to the lower part of the rear shock absorber.

Use a 18mm ratchet box wrench and keep the inner part of the spindle from turning with a 40 Torx bit.

It will help to spray this overnight with some PB bkaster since the threads are exposed to the elements and might be dirty or corroded a bit.



Then remove the 13 MM cage nuts on the top of each shock (in the engine compartment).

A few cavets:

- small hands are helpful
- do not drop the nuts, or you will be in for alot of greif (no, I did not drop them)

On the driver's side there is very limted space. Fortunately these nuts are not torqued on very tight (I had to use a small ratchet.



On the passenger side, remove the cover to the airbox (might as well change the air filter while you are there). The back 2 nuts are hidden behind some stiff wires and rubber. Once again, do not drop them. You have more room than the drivers side, although still not very much!




Support the bottom of the shock with a floor jack and pry it away the where it sits in the connection. Then guide the shock down and out.





These steps took me at 75 minutes total.

The challenges here were:

1. Tight nuts on the bottom of the shocks.

2. Limited space at the top of the shocks in the engine compartment
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:12 PM
  #48  
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Great thread. FSD install is on my list along with engine overhaul and brake rotors, short shift from FDM and whatever else I can do. Hope you enjoy the ride!
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:40 PM
  #49  
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I awaiting new rubber boots etc, before installing the struts and shocks sometime in the next 2 weeks.

There are many great vendors out there.

One I have been very happy with has been Sonnen Porsche. Their website is very easy to navigate, great schematics, discounted OEM prices and great service:

http://sonnenporscheoemparts.com/par...gramCallOut=16

Being a little OCD and knowing that a cleaner car is faster, I am in the cleaning phase right now.

Some products that I have used include:

- NAPA Aluminum Bright (good, but toxic phosphoric acid - need alot of rinsing)
- Citrus degreaser
- Dilute Simple Green
- Wire brushes on portable drill









I am not going to polish the aluminum becuase I drive this car.

I have to paint the black shafts and parts and also, will be touching up the clear on the calipers down the road.

All of the crappy Cosmoline underneath really bugs me. Yes, there are many threads on the pros and cons of removing it.

I don't drive this car in bad weather, so most of it will go.





It is a PIA to remove.

Then there is project creep:

- Do I do Fister IIs while I am in the neighborhood
- Bleed the brakes
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:56 PM
  #50  
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How are you planning on cleaning all the cosmoline off the engine case?
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:11 PM
  #51  
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WD40 works great on cosmoline. Give it a try.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:15 PM
  #52  
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From what I have read - Stoner Citrus cleaner works well.

Simple wire wheels on drill and dremel work well too, but are very time and labor intensive.

Lots of things on a rag don't seem to affect it much at all such as brake clean, lacquer thinner, ansd wax/grease/adhesive removers.

I sprayed it with some citrus and wil let it soak here and there in the next few days (this stuff is non-toxic).

My goal here is to clean it up a bit, not to make it a museum piece.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:32 PM
  #53  
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Tried Xenit orange but just way too many nooks and crannies to remove completely. I heard steam works well.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:52 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by P-daddy View Post
Tried Xenit orange but just way too many nooks and crannies to remove completely.
You need to use tooth and paint brushes.

I far prefer working on motorcycles because they are generally much cleaner, so for that reason, I cleaned my 993 so that it would be equally enjoyable to work on.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:00 PM
  #55  
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Nice winter project and thanks for sharing!
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by IXLR8 View Post
You need to use tooth and paint brushes.

I far prefer working on motorcycles because they are generally much cleaner, so for that reason, I cleaned my 993 so that it would be equally enjoyable to work on.
Alex,
You sir, have way too much time on your hands. Your 993 looks spectacular. Now cleaning is even easier with your new lift.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:19 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by P-daddy View Post
Alex,
You sir, have way too much time on your hands. Your 993 looks spectacular. Now cleaning is even easier with your new lift.
Hey, that is only a preliminary cleaning. I'm not done yet. The twenty-two year old motorcycle is way cleaner and it has even been on some long trips to the EAA in Oshkosh.

As for the lift, it was money well spent. My install method ran me almost as much as the lift though. Not cheap, but I feel comfortable under it.
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:31 AM
  #58  
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I have a question: when fully extended, are the FSD shocks longer than the M033 springs? In Germany, that would be an obstacle to using this setup because the car wouldn't pass the bianual vehicle inspection if they notice this. I think that is the reason why Bilstein introduced the shortened B8 shocks.
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:02 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by vaujot View Post
I have a question: when fully extended, are the FSD shocks longer than the M033 springs?
I hope not; are they?

I'd expect the springs to be preloaded when the strut is assembled off the car.
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:55 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by vaujot View Post
I have a question: when fully extended, are the FSD shocks longer than the M033 springs? In Germany, that would be an obstacle to using this setup because the car wouldn't pass the bianual vehicle inspection if they notice this. I think that is the reason why Bilstein introduced the shortened B8 shocks.
When I installed my ROW M030's the fronts shocks were slightly longer (ie spring under slight tension). The rears were slightly shorter so the spring was loose between the top mount and bottom perch, but when the whole assembly went into the car, the supporting suspension components (upright, axle, control arms) squeezed the shock/spring so nothing was loose when the car was raised and wheels hanging in mid-air.

As the ROW M030 and M033 ride height are the same, and assuming this means the spring lengths are the same, there should be no issue with inspection.
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