crw

The old decal is now gone.

THX for the link - it's really a pretty nice site for Porsche realted graphics.

http://www.acromann.com/index.php?ma...sort=2a&page=2

crw

My replacement shock from Koni came in after 3.5 weeks.

I used the downtime to:

1. Bleed the brakes and clutch (Motive works great)
2. Disconnect the rear spolier light (since I am now using a fixed wing)
3. Replace various air filters
4. Detailing



Koni provided great customer service. It took some time because they had to get a single shock from Holland (these things are ususally only sold in kits). I had previously cross threaded one of the shocks.



I had cleaned and painted the drop links and rear sway bar.



The old decal has been removed (spelling error).

One of the RL people gave me a link to a place that makes decals which are OEM correct in appearance, but a decal instread of a emblem.

The emblems have gotten pricey as of late. I new emblem with the 4S runs @ $130 now.

The decal (which looks the same (except it is flat) is $15.



In the next week I hope to:

- reinstall my under trays
- get the wheels on
- set the height

The the Koni FSD/MO33 - the rear shocks (non adjustable) will determine the ride height (which should end up be @ 1 inch lower than stock).

Once the car is on the ground and after a 2 mile drive - you adjust the front height (taking into account the rear height).

Since the car will have:

- new springs
- new shocks/struts
- 996 hollow twist in place of the stock rims
- new tires

The shop doing the alignment will likely need to make several adjustments.

I will post some pictures when it is on the ground and the height is set.

kg4nih

So, I thought I had all the tools I needed. But when I went to transfer the rear drop link to the new shock I realized I didn't have the correct TORX bit. What size do I need?

crw

T25

kg4nih

Thanks. What a pain not to have the right tool when you need it. Unless I run into other problems, I should have the install wrapped-up next week and then off to my wrench to adjust height & alignment.

crw

Yes I agree.

There are alot of special tools needed for this install:

- special sockets for the struts (or equivalent)
- Torx bits
- certain sizes of extension and ratchets

Doing this for the 1st time - it's a learning experience. In the future (f needed) it will be alot easier. the 2nd time around.

There cars are not the easiest to work on in terms of cramped spaces and exact tolerance of fit/threads.

It kind of gives you an appreciation of what shops often charge what they do.

That being said - having 3 months of winter downtime gives me plenty of time to play around and not rush things or get aggravated.

kg4nih

Agree w/ crw, patience and the right tools are key.

Finally got mine put back together today. I took a short drive this afternoon (~ 3 miles at less than 30 mph) and then later rechecked the torque on the fasteners easy to reach. All were fine. Tuesday it's off to my mechanic for front lowering and alignment (plus to check if I screwed anything up).

My thanks to crw, RL, and my mechanic (he encouraged me to go for it; said it would be a "bonding experience" w/ the car).

Ed Hughes

Other than having to cut up a couple of sockets for the tops, I'm not sure I'd say there are a "lot of special tools" needed? Although, I did mine 18 mos ago, and may be spacing on something. IIRC, a good set of tools would have you covered.

crw

I finally wraped up this project:

Koni FSD shocks/struts

ROW33 Springs

New 996 hollow twist rims with new tires

Bled brakes/clutch/abs

Oil change

Cosmoline removed

Added Turbo spoiler

Refinshed calipers

Red dye of plastic trim

Cleaned every bit of crud off the under carrigae, wheel wells, and car

I took the car out for spin and it ran good - needs an alignment.

The ride height now is 146mm in the front and 129mm in the rear.



I customized the spoiler a bit






The driveway (not the car) is tilted.




Some final thoughts:

DIY suspension is labor intensive (if you have never done it before like me).

These cars are made with precision.

Thanks to all of the RL people who offered help and advice.

If anyone going this route needs help, advice, or suggestions - please PM me.

Driving season wil be here in less than 1 month!

Ed Hughes

Well, it looks pretty good. I really didn't find it that bad, on difficulty level. It does take some hours, but I'm not sure it is any tougher than upgrading a torsion bar suspension. Some parts of it, yes, some parts no.

When did driving season stop-did I miss a memo??

rstarga

I just did FSDs on my Turbo with Eibach springs and am very happy with the handling. It is a good alternative to the Bilstien and HR reds. Not as harsh a ride.

crw

1 year later - ride is good as in the handling.

I have been very happy with the:

- ride height
- ride quality
- handling

ble2011

I had Koni FSD's installed this summer. So far, I really like them. They are much more compliant over bumps and no degradation in handling IMO.

P-daddy

Has the suspension settled some over the past year?

C4S993

"upper part of the strut is directional"

Don't ask how I lost the rear "directional" markings but could you explain how to re-set the rear tops strut pieces back to stock "directional."

many thanks