TJ993

hey Andy.
I have the alarm going off as soon as I attach battery ground strap.
i have new remote needing programming.
Can u assist me? Help?
TJ

slippytoad

Thanks so much for this! It took me 5 tries but I eventually did it properly. This varies slightly from the PDF attached to this thread but it works! I now have a spare key fob

Jon 'Bama

glad to find these instructions my order from ecu doctors didn't come with any

seems from going back in this thread I am going to need a dealer to give me a PIN for the ECU in order to program it. Is that correct?

Dubbed743

Never realized I should have a door gong (and I don't)... Did you inspect the gong system before determining it was your key contacts that were toast?

Dubbed743

OK well quick update, I found a door gong relay & installed: still no immobilizer light in step 4
Tracked down an issue with the clutch wasn't in max out position - still no immobilizer light in step 4
Fuse 11 (engine lid light) turned out to be defective - still no immobilizer light in step 4

Attempted connecting to Alarm Unit with Durametric, and had all sorts of faults. Seemingly cannot clear them because it kept saying "could not connect". Also getting similar connectivity issues with my Airbag module (but not ECU), so I'm thinking it's a Durametric issue not a module issue.

I'm running out of ideas here... remove the front seats and do a visual inspection on my alarm box and immo box connectors?

jay@EZimmoblock.com

I had the exact same problem with the immo not entering programming mode and ended up having to send my immo and key FOBS out to be programmed. I always suspected the key/buzzer contacts were flaky, but never bothered following up on until last month. The key contact is supposed to CLOSE when you rotate the key to ON and STAY CLOSED until the key is removed. So if you look at the programming procedure, the immo is expecting to see a constant 12 volts from that switch from the beginning to the end of procedure. In my case, the contacts closed ok when I turned the key on, but they opened when I moved the key just a little CCW. To prove that was causing the procedure to fail, I bypassed that switch by hardwiring 12 volts to the output side. Worked perfectly! You might want to give it a try.

Dubbed743

I think this makes a lot of sense. Presumably it's the only wire going from the key to the immo? Easier to access it at the key side or the Immo side?

Also, two questions about your Immo block before I pull the trigger: 1. How does your Immo block impact the original keyfob pairing procedure posted here, and 2. do I need my system to be functioning correctly (IE be able to get the light in the clock to lightup) for the Immo block to work?

Thanks!

Dubbed743

Double Post

systemsc

No, there's also the #15 power from the ignition switch, which gets cycled on/off to enter the digits.

Dubbed743

Thank you for sharing your knowledge, but now I'm confused.

According to this: (https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...mobilizer2.htm), it's saying the "buzzer contact signal" (pin 12 in the underseat connector) is what's used to program the sequence in. Is this red/black X4/1 connector wire fed from the "15" 2nd ignition switch position hot wire?

For my purposes (to determine whether my ignition switch is the reason my immobilizer clock light won't come on), I'm looking to add +12V to the the "X" 1st ignition switch position wire, yes?

EDIT:

Researching this more I see there is not only the 3 position ignition switch, but also something called a "buzzer contact ignition lock" that could be the problem.
Is there supposed to be a buzzer noise in addition to the gong noise? Because I definitely do not have that. My gong only activates when the key is in position 2.

systemsc

It's pin 6 (red/blk) that's the #15 (key on) from the ignition switch to the immobilizer.

jay@EZimmoblock.com

To answer your questions:
1) The key programing/emergency start procedure in your owners manual is unaffected by IMMO BLOCK. Not true of ECU-type defeats which cause the warning light to flash continuously.
2) IMMO BLOCK doesn't care if the warning light in the clock is working - take it right out if you want.

Give it a try. The 30-day money-back warrantee makes it risk free..
-Jay

jay@EZimmoblock.com

Yeah, it's a little confusing. US market cars only have GONGs. RoW cars only have buzzers. The buzzer/key switch that activates both of them is separate from the main contact assembly (see pic).
The input to that switch (red) is constant power (terminal 30) thru fuse 11. The output of the switch (red/blk wire) goes to your gong relay, term 85 (behind the fuel gauge) and immobilizer pin 7(under the driver's seat).
When I did my temporary bypass to program FOBs, I found it easier to access that signal at the gong than at the immobilizer. If you try it, pull the gong relay, wrap a wire around its terminal 85 and plug it back in. It'll also work by wiring 12 volt to the socket and leaving the relay out.

jay@EZimmoblock.com

No. You want to add 12 volts to Gong relay terminal 85 (or immo 7), and keep it there during the entire programming procedure. That'll simulate the key being in.
Maybe this will help understand how things are connected:

Dubbed743

Sure enough, sending +12V from the battery to gong relay pin 85 made my immobilizer light come on! Thanks for doing the heavy lifting on this one

Probably makes sense to replace both the 3-position Ignition Switch (964 613 012 00) - http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...on-switch.html
AND
the "buzzer contact ignition lock" (911 613 125 00) - https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ct-switch.html
while I'm in there, yes?