Brinkley

Take a look at these two pictures. I'm wondering if this is a safe jack stand location on a '95 993. The picture is taken from back by the driver side rear bumper. This is of the driver side left rear suspension pick up points.

Is this OK to use?

jscott82

Probably not too bad.... But conventional wisdom it to jack the rear from under teh engine case (along the seam, with some kind of pad/block of wood) then place the jack-stands on the jack points.

Brinkley

Does everyone do that?

Well, I've seen that at the track but, having never had a 911, I didn't know they were lifting from the engine case. With a block it doesn't hurt the case?

I will move them to the traditional jack point in the rear.

Thanks

IXLR8

If you use a piece of 3/4 inch plywood, it won't matter which way you orient the wood, but if you are using a piece of 2 x 4 lumber, I'd orient the grain perpendicular to the engine seam.

I use hockey pucks and pieces of plastic, like that used in cutting boards. It digs into protrusions without marring anything.

BTW, I can't make out the pic too well, but if the jack is within a channel and it can't slip off, fine. I personally do not like metal-to-metal contact.

Edward

Yup. Pro wrenchers have been doing it this way for decades. I like the hockey puck as the rubber body prevents it from shifting once it makes contact and starts to bear weight. Always good to have 2 of these laying around my jacks.

Edward

911Dave

+1. Not enough friction on a metal to metal contact for my comfort. Hockey pucks work great, or something like the hard rubber pads that come on the flat top jack stands from Esco.

Mike J

i use hockey pucks, and also have an assortment of pads cut from a piece of compressed recycled rubber 1" mat - the firmer kind they put in playgrounds. That stuff works great, I have pieces from 2" square to 10" square.

The point you are on is what I use then the car is on the lift and I need to swing an arm out of the way to get to something - like an oil change. I agree with the others though, use the jack points and something that helps the top of the jackstand from slipping. When I used to jack cars up before the lift, I also usually left a floor jack on the car somewhere as a second safety. For instance, I would jack up the car using the center seam of the engine and a think rubber pad, but the jackstands on the jack points, and let them take the majority of the weight. However, I left the floor jack in place.

Cheers,

Mike

CalvinC4S

Those jack stands are not for unibody type vehicles, get something with a round rubber pad like AC.

Unless they are holding the rear torsion bars on a older 911

chaoscreature

Brinkley,

I use the same locations when I put the car on jack stands. My car is too low and my jack is too fat to get underneath the crankcase. Having almost lost my head due to a car falling falling over experience I use a minimum of 4 points before I will crawl under cars now, for instance when I work in the rear of the car I will jack the car up on both sides at the proper points, then place my jack stands where you pictured them, but i will leave the jacks in place as well. Rock solid.
They sell rubber cups for your jack stands at harbor freight for about $15 that work very well if you are worried about marring the aluminum.

TravisB

I have these on all my stands, possibly one of the best ways I've spent $15-20 in the garage. They've held up remarkably well, I figured they'd split and crack in pretty short order but they're proving to be pretty durable.

Brinkley

Thanks for everyone's input.

I'll look into getting some rubber caps or pucks or something for the top of the jacks and for lifting from the crank case.

What I have been doing is putting the two front jack stands at the "standard" location and I had the two rear jack stands at the location noted. I kept the lifting jack at the side rear "standard" location. The lifting jack is snugged up to the standard location and for double triple protection I have the two rear wheels lying under the motor/transmission and the two front wheels lying under the front tub/suspension pickup points.

So that's 5 load bearing points with tire/wheels as a backup crush protection systems.

How's that?

uicnick

Definitely the car will be supported safely from your methods and the location, no question about that. Also good point on the tires and floor jack that is worth the effort. My opinion is that because that subframe component is aluminum, you could be fatiguing the component as it may not have been designed to take load from that location. Over time, the part could fail under high load conditions, ie. racetrack, heavy cornering, pothole or something like that. If the part was steel, i would say no issue. Aluminum doesn't like to flex, it likes to crack. Steel is much more flexible and less prone to fatigue failure. I'm not trying to worry anyone, just offering my perspective without any test data to back it up. I suppose if you're only supporting/lifting the car a finite number of times per year, there's not a huge risk or anything. I believe that's partly the reason why the front control arm bushings, as an example are not offered as replacement pieces from Porsche, they only offer the entire control arm because pressing out the bushings introduces tremendous stress to the aluminum. It's better to replace the entire piece with a fresh piece of aluminum as over time the component will fatigue and it's safer to replace the entire piece with a fresh piece.

C4S993

Brinkley: I am curious why your shock drop link drops below the suspension arm ? It looks like it just misses hitting the control arm.

Brinkley

"Brinkley: I am curious why your shock drop link drops below the suspension arm ? It looks like it just misses hitting the control arm."

You say "shock drop link" Do you mean the sway bar drop link? I don't know what you are referring to as a shock drop link.

If it is the sway bar drop link your referring to, I don't know. Other than that's how it came when I bought the car. It has PSS10 and the red Terret link. Maybe the shock is drooping excessively and causing the sway bar down to a location that is not normal. However when the car's on the ground it is no where close?.?

I wish I new if its messed up.

Anyone else see something funny here?

C4S993

Brinkley: I suspect that the lower shock perch is rotated out of position by purpose in order for the perch drop link to clear the lower cross member.

When I installed my PSS10s the instructions noted that the shock perch had to be positioned such that the drop link (that connects to the sway bar) actually clears the top of the lower cross member. However, with the RS setup, the drop link actually bolts to the sway bar underneath the lower cross member.

The way yours is now, I am curious what your ride quality is ? I ask as my set up is bone jarring (at the softest setting of 1) and I am always seeking ways to diminish the harshness in the rear of my 993 C4S.