In the middle of the walrod bushings install.. Need torque spec help
06-26-2011, 11:14 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
In the middle of the walrod bushings install.. Need torque spec help
Per the instructions I need to torque everything back to spec. Anyone have the specs handy? Thx so much!
Last edited by ryano; 06-26-2011 at 06:21 PM.
06-26-2011, 11:58 AM
#2
Race Director
http://www.paragon-products.com/v/vs...ntructions.pdf
I used the torque specs on the final page of the above. I believe there is some discussion about one of the specs mentioned here (can't remember which), but I used these and nothing has fallen off yet.
I used the torque specs on the final page of the above. I believe there is some discussion about one of the specs mentioned here (can't remember which), but I used these and nothing has fallen off yet.
06-26-2011, 12:07 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by jhummel68, re-posted by whidbey and confirmed by Bill Verberg when I was doing my install:
I took a look at the service manual and it shows these values in the front torque table:
A-arm front to side member 110NM / 81 lb/ft
A-arm rear to side member 85NM / 63 lb/ft
Joint carrier to A-arm:
Caster eccentric 65NM / 48 lb/ft
Mounting 120 / 88 lb/ft
I took a look at the service manual and it shows these values in the front torque table:
A-arm front to side member 110NM / 81 lb/ft
A-arm rear to side member 85NM / 63 lb/ft
Joint carrier to A-arm:
Caster eccentric 65NM / 48 lb/ft
Mounting 120 / 88 lb/ft
06-26-2011, 12:23 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Just got done with those yesterday. Getting the old bushing out of the first LCA was a pain! But after learning from the first few, I had the 2nd set off in 30 min. Both LCA's back in the car and all the suspension comes out today! This thread was timely...Im gonna go check torque settings!
06-26-2011, 12:29 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
...Fortunately, I was able to get a good enough purchase on it with a large set of channellock pliers to be able to break the nut on top loose...I reinstalled it the same way, but I'd say the hex key is definitely the best was to go if you can get one.
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06-26-2011, 01:22 PM
#8
Racer
Originally Posted by jhummel68, re-posted by whidbey and confirmed by Bill Verberg when I was doing my install:
I took a look at the service manual and it shows these values in the front torque table:
A-arm front to side member 110NM / 81 lb/ft
A-arm rear to side member 85NM / 63 lb/ft
Joint carrier to A-arm:
Caster eccentric 65NM / 48 lb/ft
Mounting 120 / 88 lb/ft
I took a look at the service manual and it shows these values in the front torque table:
A-arm front to side member 110NM / 81 lb/ft
A-arm rear to side member 85NM / 63 lb/ft
Joint carrier to A-arm:
Caster eccentric 65NM / 48 lb/ft
Mounting 120 / 88 lb/ft
Thanks for the credit - I guess I was right for once. I need to show this to my wife; every once in a while I get things right.
06-26-2011, 01:26 PM
#9
Race Director
Some people used vice grips from what I read, and others claimed they were able to get the bolt loose without it.
06-26-2011, 02:07 PM
#10
Pro
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Just took both of mine off yesterday - the eccentric side was so frozen on after 100K I just put my impact on the nut side and it spun off without budging the ecentric a mm. I have the proper allen socket - but it was all the way over in my tool box...
06-26-2011, 06:20 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thx again for the help guys... Got them installed and they are awesome. Other than the 1.5hrs we wasted at autozone, napa, sears ect looking for damn 11mm key it was fairly smooth. Couldn't find the key anywhere so my father in law ended up wrapping a 10mm key with metal tape till we had a 11ish size key. It was just enough to break it loose. Once I got it back in place and lined up he alignment markings I was able to torque the top and the eccentric stayed in place.
