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Umm, no one bottomed out, per se. At least not in a way that would damage anything had the engine tray been on, which is the point. With the engine tray removed, the heater boxes can droop down ever so slightly. All one needs to do is back out of a driveway and the box can catch and rip off, as that's what happened to me.
The engine tray in place would have prevented this. An advantage to having the engine tray, as it came from the factory, on.
+1 One of members cut openings in the cover and added wire mesh to the openings.
Aerodynamically it won't function as desinged if you start cutting holes in it. P/a will be reduced and therefore reducing it's ability to effectively evacuate air from under the car which helps produce downforce. You are essentially changing the air pressre under the car and that has a negative aerodynamic effect at high speeds. But then if you're a parking lot warrior you probably don't care about high speed stability.
Aerodynamically it won't function as desinged if you start cutting holes in it. P/a will be reduced and therefore reducing it's ability to effectively evacuate air from under the car which helps produce downforce. You are essentially changing the air pressre under the car and that has a negative aerodynamic effect at high speeds. But then if you're a parking lot warrior you probably don't care about high speed stability.
Mine are off on both cars. I have however mounted one of the discarded engine trays on the roof, angled down at the front. Hopefully this increased downforce will cancel any lift I've created by it's removal from under the car.
I was just going to say...If I follow the DIY for installing the engine tray, should it be Brad Penn or Mobil 1 dripping on the tray from my leaky valve cover??