Rear Axle Removal...
04-10-2010, 12:43 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Ilko,
Mark and I did this just 2 days ago. On the passenger side, you need to remove the heater tube and take the bolt loose on the oil line clamp. Remove the outer axle nut , and the inner axle bolts. Using a jack, raise the suspension on the rear passenger side until the control arms are parallel to the ground. The axle will come out on the inside under the transmission and around the oil line. No need to remove any suspension bolts.
A LARGE torque wrench is needed to tighten the axle nut (339 ft/lbs) when reassembling. We have a big torque wrench that makes this very easy. The upper one is a standard 1/2" drive torque wrench. The bottom one is affectionately known in the shop as "Big Mama". She's a 3/4", 600 ft pounder.
Darin
Mark and I did this just 2 days ago. On the passenger side, you need to remove the heater tube and take the bolt loose on the oil line clamp. Remove the outer axle nut , and the inner axle bolts. Using a jack, raise the suspension on the rear passenger side until the control arms are parallel to the ground. The axle will come out on the inside under the transmission and around the oil line. No need to remove any suspension bolts.
A LARGE torque wrench is needed to tighten the axle nut (339 ft/lbs) when reassembling. We have a big torque wrench that makes this very easy. The upper one is a standard 1/2" drive torque wrench. The bottom one is affectionately known in the shop as "Big Mama". She's a 3/4", 600 ft pounder.
Darin
One additional factor: If using a lift you won't get enough compression on the spring with the car on the lift points. You need to set the car on the ground, then jack the base of the shock mount until the car starts to raise a bit.
You then have enough of an angle to get it out.
You then have to wiggle under the car to slide the axle out.
yes, 964s are much easier.
04-10-2010, 09:32 PM
#18
Agent Orange
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Darin and Mark, thank you. That's exactly how I proceeded the first time, and it worked up until the point where the axle couldn't go past the PSS9. So that's why I had to move the shock. Mike brings up a good point - the PSS9 is too wide (thick), so the only way to remove the axle is by gettick te shock out of the way.
The only problem is that I find this very illogical from Porsche to build it this way, when it comes to aftermarket adjustable shocks. In endurance racing axles are known to fail and be replaced during the race. If you have to move the shock out of the way and have to realign the car afterward, you will lose so much time...
The only problem is that I find this very illogical from Porsche to build it this way, when it comes to aftermarket adjustable shocks. In endurance racing axles are known to fail and be replaced during the race. If you have to move the shock out of the way and have to realign the car afterward, you will lose so much time...
04-10-2010, 10:22 PM
#19
Ilko, you are correct. I just read your first couple of posts (prior to my coffee this morning 
) and didn't see you had Bilsteins on your car. With stock shocks, there is no need to remove the shock bolt. Sorry about that. 
) and didn't see you had Bilsteins on your car. With stock shocks, there is no need to remove the shock bolt. Sorry about that.
04-11-2010, 08:52 AM
#20
As Darin said, this isn't too hard but...
One additional factor: If using a lift you won't get enough compression on the spring with the car on the lift points. You need to set the car on the ground, then jack the base of the shock mount until the car starts to raise a bit.
You then have enough of an angle to get it out.
You then have to wiggle under the car to slide the axle out.
yes, 964s are much easier.
One additional factor: If using a lift you won't get enough compression on the spring with the car on the lift points. You need to set the car on the ground, then jack the base of the shock mount until the car starts to raise a bit.
You then have enough of an angle to get it out.
You then have to wiggle under the car to slide the axle out.
yes, 964s are much easier.
Yep, this is how I did both sides and with PSS9s installed.
Ken
04-11-2010, 10:11 PM
#21
Agent Orange
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Got it out yesterday (again) and yes, the shock had to come off. There is just no other way around it. However, I was able to remove the shock without disconnecting the lower control arm. I wiggled out the bolt somehow and it worked. So no re-alignment will be necessary.
I got the original and replacement axle from Steve Beddor who's been great and shipped the replacement for free and within a day of our discussion. Thank you Steve!
And thanks to all who chimed in on this thread.
Here's what a good and a bad axle sound like...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDopgnHdMCA
I got the original and replacement axle from Steve Beddor who's been great and shipped the replacement for free and within a day of our discussion. Thank you Steve!
And thanks to all who chimed in on this thread.
Here's what a good and a bad axle sound like...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDopgnHdMCA
04-12-2010, 08:59 AM
#23
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SpeedyC2 (02-27-2020)
10-10-2010, 12:25 PM
#25
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This thread saved my sanity today. I had started the r/h/s (driver's side here in the UK) wheel bearing removal and reached the stage where I needed to remove the axle. Going by the diy on p-car I thought it would be easy but when I tried I just could get the damn thing out due to it fowling the oil pipe. After persevering and a lot of reading and searching on here I managed to get it out after jacking up the suspension as much as possible by placing a jack underneath the shock absorber mount. I'm not looking forward to putting it all together, but hopefully the left-hand-side should be a breeze compared to r/h!
Thanks again
Stu
Thanks again
Stu
04-15-2011, 08:37 AM
#26
Three Wheelin'
Darin and Mark, thank you. That's exactly how I proceeded the first time, and it worked up until the point where the axle couldn't go past the PSS9. So that's why I had to move the shock. Mike brings up a good point - the PSS9 is too wide (thick), so the only way to remove the axle is by gettick te shock out of the way.
The only problem is that I find this very illogical from Porsche to build it this way, when it comes to aftermarket adjustable shocks. In endurance racing axles are known to fail and be replaced during the race. If you have to move the shock out of the way and have to realign the car afterward, you will lose so much time...
The only problem is that I find this very illogical from Porsche to build it this way, when it comes to aftermarket adjustable shocks. In endurance racing axles are known to fail and be replaced during the race. If you have to move the shock out of the way and have to realign the car afterward, you will lose so much time...
is there a special tool needed for the boot clamps?
thanks!
04-15-2011, 09:44 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
04-15-2011, 09:57 AM
#29
Three Wheelin'
04-15-2011, 10:47 AM
#30
Agent Orange
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Thread Starter
Jeez, let me at least get to the office, I'll answer
You can do this without unbolting the shock. Take the rear sway bar off and unbolt the drop link as well as the bolt that connects the upright to the control arm that controls the kinematic toe. You don't have to remove the control arm. That should take care of it. It's tedious but doable and is easier than removing the whole shock assembly.
You can do this without unbolting the shock. Take the rear sway bar off and unbolt the drop link as well as the bolt that connects the upright to the control arm that controls the kinematic toe. You don't have to remove the control arm. That should take care of it. It's tedious but doable and is easier than removing the whole shock assembly.