ilko

I have a torn CV boot and have to remove the rear axle. I've done it several times on a 964 and it's pretty straight-forward. Remove the 32mm nut that connects the axle to the hub, then remove the bolts that connect the other end to the tranny. Wiggle it out a voila!

However, I don't think it's so easy on a 993 with the multi-link rear suspension. For those who have done this, is there any way to get the axle out without having to disassemble everything around it? Factory manual says no...

Thanks in advance for your input!

North Coast Cab

Yes. If you jack under the hub/rotor you can get enough room to wiggle it out. If you are using a lift it is fairly easy.

ilko

Thanks! Just to clarify, I will be taking it out from the side of the transmission, correct? Will I need to remove the heat exchanger hose?

Pete Debusmann

Yes you need to remove the metal heater tube. Jack under the wheel carrier which raises the outboard end of the halfshaft and then lets you remove it towards the transmission.

Pete

swmic

ilko,

I removed my rear axle last year to replace an outer boot and don't remember any problems with it. It was fairly straight forward it did not take very long. Using the collective experience of this site sure helps.

slvr993

The Drivers side is easy, the passengers was more complicated but doable. Yes heater tubes need to come out, but it's no big deal.

Gasser

My technique is to un bolt everything. I have a scissor lift. Once its all loose I lower the car down where the hub is pushed up making the angle more favorable in pulling it out. Still a tight fit. I have to usually pull the parking break cable out of the way as well. You might also find that your oil line may be in the way. I can usually work around it.
Take your time and don't get frustrated as it can be done. Once you get it out, try to remember the order you got it out as You will have to reverse it to get it back in. Sounds stupid but when you finally get it back and try to get it in you will scratch your head as it won't just fall back in....



Good luck.

Jeff

ilko

Thanks for your help and encouragement guys. Yes, it is the passenger side unfortunately. I see that the heater hose would have to come out and the oil line might also be a problem.

I'll tackle this in the next few weeks and report back. The manual made it sound much more difficult than what you guys are saying so hopefully it won't be too bad.

Thanks again for your help!

Gasser

I did it with no manual and just started unbolting things. If I can do it so can you.
Good luck.
Jeff

ilko

Bump...

Still having issues with this. I was able to remove the passenger side rear axle but only by taking the rear shock out and corresponding control arm. I've since gotten an alignment but the axle that's in there is defective so I have to replace it. I don't want to mess up the alignment, but I don't see a way to get the hub side of the axle out as the shock is in the way.

I did raise the hub and it is fairly easy to get the axle out. If it wasn't for the damn rear shock in the way

Anybody have any ideas? Thanks!

ilko

Here are some pics to better illustrate the conundrum...

MB965

Ilko,
I believe you will need to disconnect the shock bottom connection and toe link.
I just changed out my drive shafts so I am sure the outer CV joint will not clear the shock bottom were the spring seat is located.

I have adjustable toe links which use a through bolt so it was easy to do.
I took the drive shafts out to repack the CV joints and found them to be heavily worn, so I replaced them. I was able to buy new Porsche Turbo drive shafts for less than the standard 993, strange but true.

Doesn't solve your problem but it should get you over the question of is there another way.

Good luck,
Mike

ilko

Hey Mike,

Yes, that's how I did it last time on the C4S as well. Funny thing is that on the RSA I had I didn't have to disconnect the shock and everybody here tells me there is a way to do it, but I just don't see it...

MB965

On the RSA obviously the 964 rear suspension is much different.
Your problem here is the PSS spring collars on the shock body.
The stock shocks have a smaller diameter at the bottom and without the collars there may be enough clearance to get the outer CV joint past.
As I am sure you can see there is no choice but to move the shock.

Just add the re-alignment cost to the used drive shaft cost (and all of your time wasted) and you will be at almost new cost. Hindsight is usually very clear.
Mike

FD Motorsports

Ilko,
Mark and I did this just 2 days ago. On the passenger side, you need to remove the heater tube and take the bolt loose on the oil line clamp. Remove the outer axle nut , and the inner axle bolts. Using a jack, raise the suspension on the rear passenger side until the control arms are parallel to the ground. The axle will come out on the inside under the transmission and around the oil line. No need to remove any suspension bolts.

A LARGE torque wrench is needed to tighten the axle nut (339 ft/lbs) when reassembling. We have a big torque wrench that makes this very easy. The upper one is a standard 1/2" drive torque wrench. The bottom one is affectionately known in the shop as "Big Mama". She's a 3/4", 600 ft pounder.

Darin