Rear Axle Removal...
#31
Three Wheelin'
Jeez, let me at least get to the office, I'll answer
You can do this without unbolting the shock. Take the rear sway bar off and unbolt the drop link as well as the bolt that connects the upright to the control arm that controls the kinematic toe. You don't have to remove the control arm. That should take care of it. It's tedious but doable and is easier than removing the whole shock assembly.
You can do this without unbolting the shock. Take the rear sway bar off and unbolt the drop link as well as the bolt that connects the upright to the control arm that controls the kinematic toe. You don't have to remove the control arm. That should take care of it. It's tedious but doable and is easier than removing the whole shock assembly.
I should have mentioned it was a pss9 - but I think yours was too
#33
Three Wheelin'
#35
Three Wheelin'
I have read a few threads on doing this job, and no matter what there are always questions.
I asked my independent tech too, this is who is telling me it is going to need to be aligned after. I'm still just trying to figure if I want to do it myself, or bite the bullet - take the car in for inspection next week and have it done then.
It's one of those things I found when I thought i was finished - just did upper valve cover on drivers side, oil, and replaced some missing things I found while in there - clutch vent tube, missing bumper screw, torn 90 degree heater duct. Pretty much had the car all back together, then discovered the torn boot.
#36
Agent Orange
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It can definitely be done without an alignment. But like I said it's a tedious job. You're probably looking at $500+ in labor if a mechanic is going to do and will have to do an alignment. So you'll have to figure out what's more important to you. Lately my time's been more important to me and I've had certain stuff done by a mechanic...
#37
Three Wheelin'
It can definitely be done without an alignment. But like I said it's a tedious job. You're probably looking at $500+ in labor if a mechanic is going to do and will have to do an alignment. So you'll have to figure out what's more important to you. Lately my time's been more important to me and I've had certain stuff done by a mechanic...
and I hear you, i like doing it myself, but can't get too wrapped up in it - need to focus on the business
#38
Addict
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Just did my 96 C4S without removing shock or arms.
It wasn't easy, but was able to pull the passenger side rear axle out, clearing the stock shock. Had to force the axle forward away from the shock while pull the whole axle out the same time. Would have been better with two persons.
I have a 4 post lift plus the scissors jack, which helps.
To install, I used a nylon strap to pull the axle outer end downward, while pushing at the same times.
I am ordering a long 8mm hex bit socket, to properly torque the M10 to 60 lb-ft.
Thank you all for posting; otherwise I would not have try this myself.
Gerry
I have a 4 post lift plus the scissors jack, which helps.
To install, I used a nylon strap to pull the axle outer end downward, while pushing at the same times.
I am ordering a long 8mm hex bit socket, to properly torque the M10 to 60 lb-ft.
Thank you all for posting; otherwise I would not have try this myself.
Gerry
#39
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Small hint : Make sure the "long" hex bit you use to torque the shaft to the transmission is of good quality - they twist and throw off the torque wrench. I would rather use a short hex bit, solid extensions. If you rotate the driveshaft, you can tighten one bolt at a time no problem, best spot (ie. max access) appears to be when the bolt is horizontal to the driveshaft. If someone is in the car applying the brakes it makes it easy. Rotate, brake, tighten, brakes off, rotate, brake ..... if not, you can use a bar on the studs for the wheels to hold it in place but its quite a bit harder that way.
Use the same technique on the big nut, brakes on, tighten. Use a good wrench, rent one if you don't have one.
Cheers,
Mike
Use the same technique on the big nut, brakes on, tighten. Use a good wrench, rent one if you don't have one.
Cheers,
Mike
#40
Bumping an old thread... having read through this thread and others which describe jacking up hub in order to pull axle out on transmission side, it appears the necessity to unbolt the shock and/or toe arm to remove the axle is dependent on the type of shock in position.
stock shock body seems to be no problem and apparently pss9 and pss10 are bigger diameter preventing clearance of the wheel-side CV joint.
I’m contemplating this on my car to replace an inner CV joint boot and my car has Bilstein B6XT shocks.
Has anybody with these aftermarket Bilstein shocks (not pss9/10) been able to remove the axle without disconnecting shock and suspension arm?
Thanks.
stock shock body seems to be no problem and apparently pss9 and pss10 are bigger diameter preventing clearance of the wheel-side CV joint.
I’m contemplating this on my car to replace an inner CV joint boot and my car has Bilstein B6XT shocks.
Has anybody with these aftermarket Bilstein shocks (not pss9/10) been able to remove the axle without disconnecting shock and suspension arm?
Thanks.
#43
Appreciate the feedback on the KoniFSD shocks and clearance.
I was under the impression that after disconnecting and reconnecting the suspension arms an alignment is advisable. I was trying to avoid that extra hassle if possible. Maybe I am misunderstanding that and only applies to disconnect/reconnect of eccentric bolt side of suspension arm.
I’m a novice DIY’er so this is new to me.
I was under the impression that after disconnecting and reconnecting the suspension arms an alignment is advisable. I was trying to avoid that extra hassle if possible. Maybe I am misunderstanding that and only applies to disconnect/reconnect of eccentric bolt side of suspension arm.
I’m a novice DIY’er so this is new to me.
#44
correct, only alignment needed only if removing from the eccentric end, and even then you can just mark the eccentric with a paint pen.
the strut/toe/hub connection is pretty easy to remove.
camber and kinematic from hub are difficult, need pb blaster or crc freeze off.
a-arm is brutal, but with toe disconnected there is probably enough space to remove axle, and if not remove camber arm and fold hub out and back.
the strut/toe/hub connection is pretty easy to remove.
camber and kinematic from hub are difficult, need pb blaster or crc freeze off.
a-arm is brutal, but with toe disconnected there is probably enough space to remove axle, and if not remove camber arm and fold hub out and back.
#45
Race Car
Originally Posted by AZ993
Bumping an old thread... having read through this thread and others which describe jacking up hub in order to pull axle out on transmission side, it appears the necessity to unbolt the shock and/or toe arm to remove the axle is dependent on the type of shock in position.
stock shock body seems to be no problem and apparently pss9 and pss10 are bigger diameter preventing clearance of the wheel-side CV joint.
I’m contemplating this on my car to replace an inner CV joint boot and my car has Bilstein B6XT shocks.
Has anybody with these aftermarket Bilstein shocks (not pss9/10) been able to remove the axle without disconnecting shock and suspension arm?
Thanks.
stock shock body seems to be no problem and apparently pss9 and pss10 are bigger diameter preventing clearance of the wheel-side CV joint.
I’m contemplating this on my car to replace an inner CV joint boot and my car has Bilstein B6XT shocks.
Has anybody with these aftermarket Bilstein shocks (not pss9/10) been able to remove the axle without disconnecting shock and suspension arm?
Thanks.