Bill Verburg

As far as I can see the #s on both RS and regular bushes are the same, they are TRW sourced.

The rubber RS parts have green dots and the aluminum RS parts have blue dots on them(you can see the blue dots on the RS A arms above)

Bill Verburg

Thats a ood question, it will be interesting to see how worn the parts are upon removal.

The toe links on mine were shot at 85000mi.

TheOtherEric

So the only reason to replace your parts with RS parts is for the weight reduction and greater strength? Just trying to understand this.

Akerlie

Weight and strength would be reasons good enough for me

Bill Verburg

Not at all, the green dot bushings are stiffer, the RS specific arms are the A arm and the castor arm(top rear arm). I strongly suspect that the castings are the same for both RS and normal.

here's the RS A - arm casting #


I'll compare to the '95s arms when they are off the car, it will also be interesting to compare to any later arm #s. If you have them please do post them.

The RS eccentrics are also different allowing a greater range of adjustment.

TheOtherEric

Lol, so the cost is irrelevant? I'll be contacting you next time I have some parts for sale.

JoeMag

Here's pic of right A-arm from my car. ...I really have no idea what it is, but webbing looks same as Bill's new parts and casting number is the same. Couldn't tell by bushings because my car has monoballs in all joints.

would be interesting for someone to post known stock pic for comparison.

Hank Cohn

I did the same project Bill is currently engaged in several years ago. I also bought the RS side member pieces which are the parts that most of this stuff bolts to. The side members allow for more camber in the rear than the stock pieces do. These were about $800-$1000 each, 6 years ago. If you’ve already done the front RS uprights, RS toe links and lower A-arms then this will complete the package. If you just do the front of the car then the rear feels very sloppy and lags behind during changes in direction.

I no longer own a 993 but if I were building a track car then the monoball cartridges would be the route I would go. They really don’t add that much NVH to the car and are very superior at maintaining alignment settings.

That said, Bill is in the midst of a great upgrade and for a dual purpose car it will be perfect not including the price! I drove mine on the street and track for about 20,000 miles with the RS pieces before I sold my RS Replica and it was extremely durable during that time. The car is still around, and from what I hear, still doing well.

Hank

Bill Verburg

Hanks Thanks for the encouragement, the chassis dynamic you described is exactly what i experienced this summer, front was done last year w/ RS upright etc.

the last bit of this appears to be the sidepanels, it just seems to be a tremendous amount of extra work to get solid mounts on them. Currently I can get _2.5 to _ 3.xx of camber w/ the stock side pieces. That seems to be enough.

Hank Cohn

Bill,

I should have said that the side members were a waste of money and effort. You are right. There is plenty of camber stroke in the stock pieces as long as you stay on DOT rubber. If you were going to run slicks then you might consider it. For me, it was one of those “While you’re in there” decisions that later became a regretted expenditure.

Good luck with your project. Once the car is all RS Spec, and it looks like you are really really close, you’re going to be very happy. The trick will be to stop modifying at that point.

Hank

MB965

Bill,

I concluded the same, the RS side members were not worth the price (>$2000) just to get the harder rubber and greater camber range. If you really needed to you could just enlarge the camber slot, although like you I had plenty of adjustment range with the stock side members. I am still looking at working up a way of being able to remove the rubber bushings with the side members on the car.
I want to use your car to try it on! I have worked up some preliminary drawings of the "tool" for doing this. Did you say you have access to lathe?

Also the casting numbers and appearance of my original rear links and control arms were the same as the new RS (and new standard) links and control arms. I do not think there are any differences except the bushings. Even the bushing main part numbers were the same with the difference only being in the suffix numbers. The RS bushings were harder than the originals though.

Mike

Bill Verburg

Thanks Mike, yes, I have access to a fair shop down at the Port

Stealth 993

Can you please do some side by sides? I'd love to see if all the angles are the same.
Also please weigh both the stock & RSR, I'd love to see how much they differ. I'm on the fence about getting some adjustable arms VS stock race parts.

AOW162435

I just wanted to give a huge thanks to Rob for actually doing this - the Brown Santa stopped by today with a wonderful selection of pistons, cylinders, rods & cams! Very, very cool!


Andreas

FLA997

Your very welcome Andreas!

And Bill- your set is on the way also.