993 RSR Racecar build...
12-03-2008, 01:21 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Steering angle... This is a copy off of what Geoffrey did on his car. It uses a motec string pot. He tapped the shaft, but I goofed it up so just put a through bolt in. AIM custom sensor setup screen shown used to set steering angle. ...as you can see, infinately more resolution than what you need for steering angle. I think the 993 rack has one of the highest gear ratio's as it's only a little over two turns full left to full right.
12-10-2008, 06:24 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Brakes.... First time I took wheel off this tub I was about floored at how big the front rotors were, then I looked at the pads and did a double take. Front brakes are off 996 gt3r, and I think the 993 GT2's had a similar setup as enduro brakes. Rotors are 380mm and pads are around an inch thick. pic is with a 930 front rotor in front of the 380mm rotor.
I have no idea where the mounting fixture for the dual masters is from but it's a pretty nice piece. It was made to be run with the mc's on top of each other (vs left right as it's mounted) but I didn't like that due to pot'l trapped air. Took a little working to get it to work like this; note slot in frame rail for bias adj to go in if you have to adj that far. It also had to be spaced out about an inch from fire wall to make bias adj fit, which intern meant I had to have a longer pedal to brake shaft connection piece made. Brake pressure sensor connected to front mc.
I have no idea where the mounting fixture for the dual masters is from but it's a pretty nice piece. It was made to be run with the mc's on top of each other (vs left right as it's mounted) but I didn't like that due to pot'l trapped air. Took a little working to get it to work like this; note slot in frame rail for bias adj to go in if you have to adj that far. It also had to be spaced out about an inch from fire wall to make bias adj fit, which intern meant I had to have a longer pedal to brake shaft connection piece made. Brake pressure sensor connected to front mc.
what system are you using for the wire labeling ?
12-11-2008, 10:57 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
regading wire lableing, it's actually clear shrink tube (see web address below). i printed the labels on paper, wrapped it around wire and then put shrink tube around it. ...for engine comparement i'd probably recommend maybe a plastic label maker, cut it out and then put shrink tube around that. reason being is the shrink tube doesn't 100% seal so if it gets wet, oil, etc labeling could get bad. as you can see in my case they're almost all areas that really wouldn't get wet so I though paper would be fine. my motor harness is motec and has similar setup, but lables are printed on plastic with clear shrink wrap around them.
http://www.parts-express.com/webpage...ID=3&x=18&y=13
I would be interested if anyone else has thoughts or ways they've printed on plastic.
http://www.parts-express.com/webpage...ID=3&x=18&y=13
I would be interested if anyone else has thoughts or ways they've printed on plastic.
12-11-2008, 11:47 AM
#26
Nordschleife Master
Joe, I have a special printer that prints on shrinkable labels and are then covered with clear heat shrink. These are the standard yellow labels you see on motorsport wire harnesses.
12-24-2008, 09:03 AM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Clutch and trans....
Flywheel and clutch are from from early 996 gt3r. Clutch is tilton 7.25" two plate clutch. These clutches require special throwout bearing that mounts around trans shaft (see 2nd pic). Line going in side is feed and one out top is bleed line. I though I read somewhere that this setup (clutch and flywheel), weighs less than the RS clutch itself.
I can not take credit for the trans. I had Brian Copans build it and help me with gearing. Trans is setup for cooling with line coming out bottom as supply and return on top of ring gear. Trans cooler is mounted behind drivers seat with cooling coming from rear quarter window. Trans pump mounted on lower rear bulk head on passanger side. Temp sensor is on fill hole. Used metric hex plug and had it tapped for sensor. Optimally sensor could be mounted through one of the bosses just below and aft of the fill plug, but trans was done so that will have to wait until next time.
As setup for clutch / throwout bearing you push clutch pedal in until clutch just breaks loose, push pedal add'l 1/4" and set pedal stop. ...what a major pia was it to weld a threaded stop in the foot well. I wanted to make sure clutch worked before I mounted in car so I drilled a piece of wood and put weight on it to check with trans out of car (see last pic). Clutch line has dry break fitting (see cooler pic), so you can test and disconnect without needing to bleed.
When you start snapping these pics, it's amazing what you see. Note rust on cage bar above trans pump. You could really not see this unless you had bright light under car and was looking at that. ...well it's fixed now, and I almost got stuck in that area redoing the paint after steel wooling rust off.
Flywheel and clutch are from from early 996 gt3r. Clutch is tilton 7.25" two plate clutch. These clutches require special throwout bearing that mounts around trans shaft (see 2nd pic). Line going in side is feed and one out top is bleed line. I though I read somewhere that this setup (clutch and flywheel), weighs less than the RS clutch itself.
I can not take credit for the trans. I had Brian Copans build it and help me with gearing. Trans is setup for cooling with line coming out bottom as supply and return on top of ring gear. Trans cooler is mounted behind drivers seat with cooling coming from rear quarter window. Trans pump mounted on lower rear bulk head on passanger side. Temp sensor is on fill hole. Used metric hex plug and had it tapped for sensor. Optimally sensor could be mounted through one of the bosses just below and aft of the fill plug, but trans was done so that will have to wait until next time.
As setup for clutch / throwout bearing you push clutch pedal in until clutch just breaks loose, push pedal add'l 1/4" and set pedal stop. ...what a major pia was it to weld a threaded stop in the foot well. I wanted to make sure clutch worked before I mounted in car so I drilled a piece of wood and put weight on it to check with trans out of car (see last pic). Clutch line has dry break fitting (see cooler pic), so you can test and disconnect without needing to bleed.
When you start snapping these pics, it's amazing what you see. Note rust on cage bar above trans pump. You could really not see this unless you had bright light under car and was looking at that. ...well it's fixed now, and I almost got stuck in that area redoing the paint after steel wooling rust off.
12-24-2008, 06:05 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Mike -- regarding that sophisticated piece of auto wizardry holding the trans up... It's to hold the trans up when connected to motor. motor is on an atv jack and trans needs to be able to swing around and movers doly has 4 pivoting wheels. When I put in car I put jack under trans mount so I can jack it up. Need to weight jack handle down though so it fits under car.
Last edited by JoeMag; 08-24-2009 at 10:24 PM.