Rear Drop Link Mount
#1
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Rear Drop Link Mount
I am testing a new two-piece rear drop link mount that will fit just about all threaded damper bodies.
I wanted to throw this out there to gauge interest since these are not easy to machine nor will they be really inexpensive. Preliminarily I could offer these in the $280/pair range.
There is a slight interference fit local to the threads such that they are clamping onto the damper tube once the two fasteners are tightened. This will eliminate the need for multiple lock rings to keep them clocked in place. Also, one would not need to remove the shock and subsequently disrupt the rear toe settings to change or adust the height of the rear anti roll bar mount height.
For those who dont have adjustable drop links, I have a slotted hole at the drop link mount area to allow any bar preload to be zeroed quite easily.
If one already has suspension on the car and its aligned, the old cast mount can be cut off provided its done so carefully with a Dremel type of tool.
Tell me what you think?
I wanted to throw this out there to gauge interest since these are not easy to machine nor will they be really inexpensive. Preliminarily I could offer these in the $280/pair range.
There is a slight interference fit local to the threads such that they are clamping onto the damper tube once the two fasteners are tightened. This will eliminate the need for multiple lock rings to keep them clocked in place. Also, one would not need to remove the shock and subsequently disrupt the rear toe settings to change or adust the height of the rear anti roll bar mount height.
For those who dont have adjustable drop links, I have a slotted hole at the drop link mount area to allow any bar preload to be zeroed quite easily.
If one already has suspension on the car and its aligned, the old cast mount can be cut off provided its done so carefully with a Dremel type of tool.
Tell me what you think?
#3
Rennlist Member
I think you're preaching to the converted. I would rather buy a set of those vs. checking lock rings almost daily and praying that nothing rotates while the car is loaded in a corner. Plus, they look cool!
#4
Love the idea about not having to worry about locking rings. Wish you could make them for less $$. Might be cheap insurance in the long run. I may very well be checking in again with you this summer for a set - gotta move and get settled in first before the suspension upgrade starts.
#7
RL Technical Advisor
Lookin' good,....
A few suggestions:
1) I would lose the slotted hole for a round one as the droplink bolt (or stud) will have trouble staying tight. In practice, the plane of that hole gives trouble when aligned with the forces on the droplink.
2) Hard anodize the whole thing for durability and corrosion protection.
A few suggestions:
1) I would lose the slotted hole for a round one as the droplink bolt (or stud) will have trouble staying tight. In practice, the plane of that hole gives trouble when aligned with the forces on the droplink.
2) Hard anodize the whole thing for durability and corrosion protection.
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#8
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Lookin' good,....
1) I would lose the slotted hole for a round one as the droplink bolt (or stud) will have trouble staying tight. In practice, the plane of that hole gives trouble when aligned with the forces on the droplink.
2) Hard anodize the whole thing for durability and corrosion protection.
1) I would lose the slotted hole for a round one as the droplink bolt (or stud) will have trouble staying tight. In practice, the plane of that hole gives trouble when aligned with the forces on the droplink.
2) Hard anodize the whole thing for durability and corrosion protection.
Anodizing will happen for production pieces. Mil Spec hard anodizing is certainly possible. Higher end 2024 does respond nicely to such plating treatments.
We can certainly try to simplify the part some to take some cost out. Bummer part is this component requires sooo many setups, sadly.
#10
Seared
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Chris,
I appreciate the time that went into this design and can see why you have it priced like you do. If you are able to make some adjustments that drop the price somewhat, I would be interested in a set.
Andreas
I appreciate the time that went into this design and can see why you have it priced like you do. If you are able to make some adjustments that drop the price somewhat, I would be interested in a set.
Andreas
#12
Chris,
Good Idea! Looks like you're trying to snag all my update funds LOL ! (I got your lower control arm bushings Friday, Thanks !)
Glenn
Good Idea! Looks like you're trying to snag all my update funds LOL ! (I got your lower control arm bushings Friday, Thanks !)
Glenn
#13
Addict
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Hmmm, insurance policy. Not a bad thing for ~$280.
#14
Race Car
Somebody has been a busy beaver lately! Makes me feel bad for not doing more exhaust work
Love the look. Can't see what the bolt threads into......is it the casting or is there a nut on the back side? I would worry about the bolts backing out if they just thread in. A pinch nut comes to mind as a good fastener to use. Just my .0002 cents
Love the look. Can't see what the bolt threads into......is it the casting or is there a nut on the back side? I would worry about the bolts backing out if they just thread in. A pinch nut comes to mind as a good fastener to use. Just my .0002 cents
#15
Weathergirl
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Possibly dumb question: can you change the location of the upper drop link mount such that a very low car--or cars using U.S. springs and therefore with the lower spring perch & sway bar mount near the bottom of the threads--could still use normal swaybars without hitting the suspension arm?