Rear Drop Link Mount
#17
Nordschleife Master
Chris, very nice work.
I was thinking about another approach to solve this problem using the existing drop link mounts. Cad plated hardware and locking nuts provide the clamping force.
Total cost is about $1.99 combined with 5 minutes on the band saw and drill press and this is what developed - please let me know what you think.
I was thinking about another approach to solve this problem using the existing drop link mounts. Cad plated hardware and locking nuts provide the clamping force.
Total cost is about $1.99 combined with 5 minutes on the band saw and drill press and this is what developed - please let me know what you think.
Last edited by FlatSix911; 01-27-2008 at 11:29 PM.
#18
Seared
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Ted,
I believe a shop tried a similar solution (Devek?) and found the stock casting too weak for the modification. While your solution appears that it would impart some clamping force at the threads, I would worry that the aluminum casting would fail where you drilled through.
Andreas
I believe a shop tried a similar solution (Devek?) and found the stock casting too weak for the modification. While your solution appears that it would impart some clamping force at the threads, I would worry that the aluminum casting would fail where you drilled through.
Andreas
#19
probably a dumb question, but what would be the advantage of this solution, that looks sexy btw...and a regular set of extra locknuts from Bilstein ( if its an alternative for the same solution) ? For someone who doesdnt track the car or push it to its extreme, is somthing like this necessary?
#20
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probably a dumb question, but what would be the advantage of this solution, that looks sexy btw...and a regular set of extra locknuts from Bilstein ( if its an alternative for the same solution) ? For someone who doesdnt track the car or push it to its extreme, is somthing like this necessary?
I fought this just today during a PSS9 install. Had to remove the shock one time to fine tune the link mount height so that the bar wont foul the toe link. I feel this alone is the most frustrating part of any 993 suspension install, bar none!
Also, it eliminates the need for the extra lock ring as it gingerly clamps the damper body without damper tune distortion. I have some more precision damper tube bore measuring to do to further confirm this as it is important.
#21
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Ted,
I believe a shop tried a similar solution (Devek?) and found the stock casting too weak for the modification. While your solution appears that it would impart some clamping force at the threads, I would worry that the aluminum casting would fail where you drilled through.
Andreas
I believe a shop tried a similar solution (Devek?) and found the stock casting too weak for the modification. While your solution appears that it would impart some clamping force at the threads, I would worry that the aluminum casting would fail where you drilled through.
Andreas
The thing I dont care for in modifying the existing cast piece is simply the material its made from -- crappy cast who knows what
The key to get this to work as a product would be to take manufacturing cost out of it. I will be working with the machinist in efforts to do just that.
#22
Race Car
Ted,
I believe a shop tried a similar solution (Devek?) and found the stock casting too weak for the modification. While your solution appears that it would impart some clamping force at the threads, I would worry that the aluminum casting would fail where you drilled through.
Andreas
I believe a shop tried a similar solution (Devek?) and found the stock casting too weak for the modification. While your solution appears that it would impart some clamping force at the threads, I would worry that the aluminum casting would fail where you drilled through.
Andreas
Yeap...you know it.... It happened to me with the Devek's modified drop links. I now have their version II (uses a much smaller diameter bolt that leaves more of the original material unmoslested and it has performed great in the past 3 years. But I wasn't happy when the first set broke. The only way to get the new bracket was to dismount the shocks and do aligments, etc all over again!
Here is the post with the pictures of my drop link brackets.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/195464-bilstein-hd-s-drop-down-link-collar-failure.html
#23
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Somebody has been a busy beaver lately! Makes me feel bad for not doing more exhaust work
Love the look. Can't see what the bolt threads into......is it the casting or is there a nut on the back side? I would worry about the bolts backing out if they just thread in. A pinch nut comes to mind as a good fastener to use. Just my .0002 cents
Love the look. Can't see what the bolt threads into......is it the casting or is there a nut on the back side? I would worry about the bolts backing out if they just thread in. A pinch nut comes to mind as a good fastener to use. Just my .0002 cents
Anyhow, just a nylock nut on the back for now. Of course, a proper spot face as well. Might source metric jet nuts (aka K-nuts) for it. They are great!
#24
Race Car
Yes, Devek (circa VB being there) was modifying the standard cast ARB link mounts by drilling a hole through it and installing a bolt through the thing to clamp it down. I recall there were reports of them failing local to where the hole was drilled. I dont know anything more than that honestly.
The thing I dont care for in modifying the existing cast piece is simply the material its made from -- crappy cast who knows what
The key to get this to work as a product would be to take manufacturing cost out of it. I will be working with the machinist in efforts to do just that.
The thing I dont care for in modifying the existing cast piece is simply the material its made from -- crappy cast who knows what
The key to get this to work as a product would be to take manufacturing cost out of it. I will be working with the machinist in efforts to do just that.
I wish your solution was available back then Chris. It would have saved me many $$$ on having to dismount/remount/realign/corner balance all over again just to re-thread the new brackets.
Last edited by cabrio993; 01-27-2008 at 11:33 PM.
#25
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Possibly dumb question: can you change the location of the upper drop link mount such that a very low car--or cars using U.S. springs and therefore with the lower spring perch & sway bar mount near the bottom of the threads--could still use normal swaybars without hitting the suspension arm?
This is being considered as well. The shorter the link (which I hate those short links), the larger the moment or action on the drop link.
#26
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Chris, very nice work.
I was thinking about another approach to solve this problem using the existing drop link mounts. Cad plated hardware and locking nuts provide the clamping force.
Total cost is about $1.99 combined with 5 minutes on the band saw and drill press and this is what I developed - please let me know what you think.
I was thinking about another approach to solve this problem using the existing drop link mounts. Cad plated hardware and locking nuts provide the clamping force.
Total cost is about $1.99 combined with 5 minutes on the band saw and drill press and this is what I developed - please let me know what you think.
I like the way you ended the slot with a hole -- good thinking!!
#27
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Very nice job Chris! I like the idea that you can spin down the height adjustments without having to take the shock out...I have done a few as well and its a royal pain in the *** to lower the back of the car since the mount could not be moved down because of clearance issues.
I know you designed it for lots of stress and are likely stronger than the stock ones anyways?
Will these work on the PSS-10's as well? Maybe you should approach Bilstein and sell the design to them so this would be way it works out of the box.
Cheers,
Mike
I know you designed it for lots of stress and are likely stronger than the stock ones anyways?
Will these work on the PSS-10's as well? Maybe you should approach Bilstein and sell the design to them so this would be way it works out of the box.
Cheers,
Mike
#28
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Love the idea about not having to worry about locking rings. Wish you could make them for less $$. Might be cheap insurance in the long run. I may very well be checking in again with you this summer for a set - gotta move and get settled in first before the suspension upgrade starts.
I am going to get a set of these...probably still use locking collars just to be certain. These puppies in conjunction with my Tarett Engineering drop links, I'll be "10 feet tall and bulletproof!"
BTW, just back from the track....Streets of Willow, a short track. With PSS9s, my TRG front bar, with Tarett Engineering drop drop links set in the second hole (first being full soft, and the rear to full stiff (Tarett Engineering, of course) , on RA-1 tires, my car has never handled better, never better. Now I am out of excuses....I was runn ing with a guy that always passes me...he didn't this time.
I am going to try the Willow Springs Big Track on this same setting. If I get too much over steer, I'll set the rear bar to the middle.
#29
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In efforts to get cost out of these mounts as well as beating on the outfit that machines these mounts for me (and promising to send more work his way), he has extended a better deal to me, therefore to any of you who are interested. I'll pass this along, no sweat.
$200.00 / car set would be group buy pricing without the need for a group buy.
$200.00 / car set would be group buy pricing without the need for a group buy.
#30
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In efforts to get cost out of these mounts as well as beating on the outfit that machines these mounts for me (and promising to send more work his way), he has extended a better deal to me, therefore to any of you who are interested. I'll pass this along, no sweat.
$200.00 / car set would be group buy pricing without the need for a group buy.
$200.00 / car set would be group buy pricing without the need for a group buy.
I REALLY wish I'd had these before I did my susp. last week.
Oh the pain... the paaaainnn!