Slipped off jack stand
#1
Weathergirl
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Had the front up on stands to install the steering rack brace. Jacking from the rear jack point, the entire car warps one way then back again when you put the jackstand under the front. It's always unnerved me but I figured, hey that's how they designed it...
Anyway, when letting the jack down after pulling out the passenger side jack stand, the driver side stand slipped off the jack point. I peeled back the plastic trim piece, and luckily there was no body damage. It did partially flatten the A/C line that runs right next to the jack point, though. It was between the body seam and the jackstand. Looks like $200 or so for a replacement, but I'll take that vs bodywork!
Given the extreme angles you get when jacking up the 993 for jackstands, I wonder if there's a more stable solution. I almost got the AC flat top jackstands, but I realized that they wouldn't be much better at ~20% angle. What I really need is a set of jackstands with this (pic from Pelican Parts) on top. It's a jack pad which fits into the hole in the 993 jackpoint. Don't need it on the jack, but on the jackstand--that would be brilliant.
Anyway, when letting the jack down after pulling out the passenger side jack stand, the driver side stand slipped off the jack point. I peeled back the plastic trim piece, and luckily there was no body damage. It did partially flatten the A/C line that runs right next to the jack point, though. It was between the body seam and the jackstand. Looks like $200 or so for a replacement, but I'll take that vs bodywork!
Given the extreme angles you get when jacking up the 993 for jackstands, I wonder if there's a more stable solution. I almost got the AC flat top jackstands, but I realized that they wouldn't be much better at ~20% angle. What I really need is a set of jackstands with this (pic from Pelican Parts) on top. It's a jack pad which fits into the hole in the 993 jackpoint. Don't need it on the jack, but on the jackstand--that would be brilliant.
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MikeJ might chime in here - I think he fabricated a jig that fits the top of the standard U-shaped jack stand. Basically the same idea using U-channel and a pin. Here's the link, but the pics are gone: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/79297-jack-stand-stabilizers.html
#5
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Glad it didnt happen while under the car working...
I always take extra safety measures while working under the car.In addition to jack stands
I always put some old wheels(double stacked) under car.You can never be to safe.
Take care...
I always take extra safety measures while working under the car.In addition to jack stands
I always put some old wheels(double stacked) under car.You can never be to safe.
Take care...
#6
Seared
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Jon,
Sorry to hear of the damage. Here is what I do and I have had the car on 4 stands an inordinate amount of times since buying it in '05. This takes me less than 10 minutes and results in a very stable setup.
Since my 993 is slightly lowered, I first drive the front wheels on to a set of short 2x6" boards. Then using a normal Craftsman aluminum floor jack, I lift the rear by the engine case (hockey puck under the case) high enough to get one set of flat-top AC stands under the rear lift points. I let the car rest on the rear stands and then place a 2' length of 2x6" on the jack cradle. I fold a towel a few times to cover the board and then lift the entire front very easily by placing the board directly behind where the front bumper plastic ends (same place that a FPB would go). Since the weight of the engine and tranny are behind the rear stands, the car will pivot nicely as the front is raised. I then place the stands under the front lift points and get to work. Depending on what I'm doing under the car, I may then raise the rear a bit more, but you get the point. I've never had an issue with this method and feel very safe under the car using the AC stands.
Andreas
Sorry to hear of the damage. Here is what I do and I have had the car on 4 stands an inordinate amount of times since buying it in '05. This takes me less than 10 minutes and results in a very stable setup.
Since my 993 is slightly lowered, I first drive the front wheels on to a set of short 2x6" boards. Then using a normal Craftsman aluminum floor jack, I lift the rear by the engine case (hockey puck under the case) high enough to get one set of flat-top AC stands under the rear lift points. I let the car rest on the rear stands and then place a 2' length of 2x6" on the jack cradle. I fold a towel a few times to cover the board and then lift the entire front very easily by placing the board directly behind where the front bumper plastic ends (same place that a FPB would go). Since the weight of the engine and tranny are behind the rear stands, the car will pivot nicely as the front is raised. I then place the stands under the front lift points and get to work. Depending on what I'm doing under the car, I may then raise the rear a bit more, but you get the point. I've never had an issue with this method and feel very safe under the car using the AC stands.
Andreas
#7
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Jon, it's scary getting them up and down off of four stands, glad to hear the damage was minimal and that you weren't injured. Andreas, your method sounds like it avoids the twisting contortions that the usual method of getting onto four stands puts the car through, I'll give that a try next time, thanks.
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#8
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What kind of jack stands were you using? V-top or flat top with/without hockey pucks?
So far (knock, knock, knock) my flat tops with hockey pucks bolted on haven't resulted in any events.
So far (knock, knock, knock) my flat tops with hockey pucks bolted on haven't resulted in any events.
#9
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I do something similar to Andreas except I use the aluminum sway mount on either side up front instead of the towel idea. Keeps things pretty much under control.
I do like the idea of the Pelican adapter though for normal jacking on a single side. What is needed is a way to hold that thing in the body while you position the jack...
I do like the idea of the Pelican adapter though for normal jacking on a single side. What is needed is a way to hold that thing in the body while you position the jack...
#10
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My stands have the " \___/ " shaped cradles and I have found that a folded hand towel placed in the " \___/ " significantly reduces the tendency of metal-on-metal slippage. It does not, however, completely eliminate slippage when the angle of a line bisecting the centerline of both wheels gets significantly off horizontal.
One should also be aware that the more "grip" the car has on the stands, the greater the possibility of tipping the stands when the angle of a line bisecting the centerline of both wheels gets significantly off horizontal.
I've fiddled with making pads from old tire tread but haven't been successful at attaching the pad to the jack stand cradle in a manner that's efficient, yet easily removable for other uses.
One should also be aware that the more "grip" the car has on the stands, the greater the possibility of tipping the stands when the angle of a line bisecting the centerline of both wheels gets significantly off horizontal.
I've fiddled with making pads from old tire tread but haven't been successful at attaching the pad to the jack stand cradle in a manner that's efficient, yet easily removable for other uses.
#11
Racer
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Here's a snapshot of my little twist of a mod. If I hadn't sunk the bolt head it probably would have functioned as a pin to locate in the jack point holes, but I use these stands for other cars so needed a flush top.
![](http://www.srlx.com/p-car/pictures/jackstnd.jpg)
#12
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Well, I have a few jigs that I machined up a while back. Here is my solution for a positive lock jackstand top. It fits on the saddle type jackstands and locks onto the car...works great. I now use the locks on my lift...same idea.
Here is a permutation of my idea...there are very strong magnets imbedded into the top so you can attach them to the car and then lower the car onto the jackstand or lift....I was getting a little fancy-assed on this one so I knurled the outside. Looks cool anyways! This adaptor is designed when you are jacking the car up with a floor jack...
Cheers,
Mike
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/parts_shot_copy1.jpg)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/double_shot_copy2.jpg)
Here is a permutation of my idea...there are very strong magnets imbedded into the top so you can attach them to the car and then lower the car onto the jackstand or lift....I was getting a little fancy-assed on this one so I knurled the outside. Looks cool anyways! This adaptor is designed when you are jacking the car up with a floor jack...
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/good1.jpg)
Cheers,
Mike
#13
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If I don't need access to the wheels on a project (such as installing a steering rack brace), I always use good quality metal ramps. Much safer than jacking the car up.
#14
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Prior to installing a hoist, I usually followed the method Andreas indicated .... start from the back, etc. The best investment I made when using jackstands was to buy a second floor jack! Using two jacks assures that the car rises vertically ..... and more importantly, can be lowered smoothly onto the stands without any sideways loading.
When the car is securely on the four stands, I always left at least one jack locked in position as additional security.
When the car is securely on the four stands, I always left at least one jack locked in position as additional security.
#15
Weathergirl
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The jackstands were the normal type, and had pads on them. The pad may have helped it slide off, actually.
Any reason not to use a big allen screw as a locator? Seems like an M14 or M16 would be about right. Have to measure the holes.
Any reason not to use a big allen screw as a locator? Seems like an M14 or M16 would be about right. Have to measure the holes.