Hello all,

So I have been having a problem w/my A/C as of late, it was both: not blowing cold at all and there was next to no airflow when A/C was turned on

So, I read...a LOT for the last 3-5 days.

Finally I came to the conclusion that it was one of 2 things or a combo:

--I was low on R134A and thus had a small leak and needed a recharge and possibel expansion valve/evaporator replacement

OR

--I had a vac leak somewhere and things weren't opening/closing as they should
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Off to Pep-Boys for a gauge and some R134A (with dye and oil combo). Came back, and measured using the instructions posted here on RL (thank you for that BTW). BUT, it was hard to measure b/c the compressor was switching on and off every 10 secs (another symptom). But from what I saw it was at about 15 psi, so that was good.

So...I started looking for vac leaks. Looked at all of the tubes that were running from the CCU to the airbox up front...all connected. Then on to the solenoids, so I turned on the car and put on Max A/C. Unplugged the white tube from the solenoid behind the CCU....not much vac at all. Then I put a longer tube on the solenoid that the white tube was connected to. I applied some vacuum (by sucking on the tube), and BAM! I had airflow again! So I knew that I had a vac leak somewhere, but I had no idea where.

I started in the engine. With the car still running I went back to the engine and listened, compressor was still cycling on and off every 10 secs. Suddenly, I heard air whoosing, looked at the airbox on the left side of the engine, and felt around, there was a large tube that was off (it's tube for the fan that runs after the car is off to cool the engine), so I reattached that. BUT, while I was doing that I checked the Variorum valve that is on the left (the one that collapses over time, that many here have replaced). Noticed that two tubes were connected to the bottom of it (that's good)...but isn't there supposed to be a third???? BINGO!!! The third tube that connects to the side (parallel to the ground), was disconnected.

So I plugged it back in and started the car up. At first the car's idle fluctuated a bit which told me this tube must have been disconnected for a while and the car's idle/mixture must have adjusted over time (I have no idea how long this tube had been disconnected, I got the car in November). Turned on the A/C, not only was it flowing at full strength again, but it was ice cold!! I got out and checked the compressor, it was no longer cycling on and off every 10 secs either. Checked the low side pressure, and it was at 20 psi instead of 15, so I let out a few PSI to be safe, and the A/C is as good as new.

 

Nice when things end up being simple, especially when its A/C related. Good job

 

Im having one of those AC issues right now. Freon is fine-thats been tested. Will look into your suggestions.

Even though it was 90 today in Salt Lake City, no AC wasnt an issue at all especially when I went up to Park City and it was about 80. I'll take 90 in the desert any day of the week than 80 in midwest with 80% humidity! Windows down, moon roof open and jaming a little Janis

Oh Lord, won’t you buy me a Mercedes Benz....
My friends all drive Porsches, I must make amends....

 

Funny thing...now that I have fixd the A/C the car stalls every 3rd time or so coming to a stop...so I have unplugged the battery and will reconnect tomorrow so the ECU can "reset" the fuel trims and mixture.

 

Pictures would be great!! Im a big time visual person.

 

Yep, that's next. Just waiting for my camera to charge...Don't know if I can get a camera under the dash though :-(

Oh yeah, after plugging in the battery this morning, letting the car idle for 10 mins and then driving around town (with some full throttle runs on the highway) the stalling is competely gone! I had also been having a slightly "lumpy" idle, and that is gone as well :-) G'damn vac leaks!!!

 

If the A/C is cycling every few seconds it's usually a busted A/C resistor in the driver's side fender. Have you checked that?

 

The A/C is fine once again. It was simply a major vac leak in the engine compartment. I will take pics and show which hose was detached.


The fan up front on the A/C radiator has been functioning fine. But if I have another problem w/the A/C cycling i will check that next.

 

Sorry to bring up this very old thread, but I'm chasing my weak A/C issue right now.

Any pic of where these vacuum leaks could be?

 

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...placement.html

 

Thanks!

But mine is a non-varioram '95. Does that make a difference?

 

Vacuum leaks only affect the resirc flap. You should read about 7-10 deg C at the air vent if you set temp to minimum, max fan and resirc on/fresh air intake closed, (that's what the big snowflake button does)depending on the outside temperature.
The most common vacuum faults are caused by disconnected hoses on either the flap actuator itself or on the solenoid valve in the trunk.
I had in addition to this a failing rubber diaphragm in a vacuum operated actuator in the engine compartment. You'll find a vacuum diagram as well as more details on this page:
www.ccu.tore.bergvill.com
Cheers,
Tore