Toga

Here I remove the stabilizer bar: on the link rod, you need a 17mm open wrench between the bar and the rubber from the link rod to block the bolt, and a 16mm to unscrew


then we remove the silent block (?) with 2x 13mm wrench.


we release the toe arm from the inner mount. MARK THE POSITION OF THE INSTALLATION before touching to the eccentric. (That’s one of the points they use to aligne the wheels).


When the toe arm is released from the inner mount, do not force it down. At the bottom of the shock absorber, you will have to release the bolt using a Torx 140 and a 18mm wrench as shown:


Then 4 bolts to remove the crossmember (bolt 16mm nut 18mm)


Under the car unbolt the drive shaft from transmission. They are very tight. I used the best tool available on our European market, just to be sure not to round the screws and be in deep s...! No problem here. Use the hand brake to prevent the shaft to turn.
Then we have access to the starter.
Remove the ground wire with a Alen N° 10 then the manual says wire n° 30… I love it! Well I don’t know which one it is, so I disconnected all the wires. One is hold by a 12mm nut, another one has a small plastic cover over a 10mm nut. (those 2 are not visible on the picture)


Now I should remove the slaver cylinder from the clutch. I delay this until the engine will be a few cm down. Look at the picture and will understand why!

So now the lower side of the engine compartment looks quite empty! One more tube to remove, and it will be time to finally remove the engine! Pressure is coming up!

To remove the oil return tube, we need two open wrench: 1 x 32mm and 1 x 36mm. Big ones!
Ok I fly to the shop to buy those wrench. I really need to show you that engine tonight!
Unfortunately, I got the 32 but the 36 is not in stock! And the worse to come: they need a week to have it. There I’m close to the heart attack!


I'm stuck gentlemen! ( time for a well deserved BEER!)Tomorrow morning, I 'll give a few phone calls and I hope I'll find that wrench!

On that last picture, I have a question: do you know which one to unscrew? the outer one or the one closer to the engine case?

When that line is out, the way is free for the engine to come down.

All you comments, and advises are welcome

Cheers

kkim

Great work!!! Sorry to hear they didn't have the wrench, but you deserve a cyber beer or two.

Benton

Looks like fun; thanks for the write up! Maybe you even need more than two...

JasonAndreas

I ran into a similar problem so I ended up using a really big adjustable wrench that I had in my toolbox.


With the oil lines you use 1 wrench to hold the nut closest to the engine and another wrench to turn the outer nut. I've also had to use a blow torch and a 1 foot long hollow aluminum tube.

awesome writeup...

Toga

Thanks Jason,

I would never have tought about using a blow torch! Do you remember at what torque you put it back in?

KBell

Wow!

I am very impressed.
Keep up the great work!
A world of Rennlist members are watching.

Kevin

Kigiin

Toga,

I missed the prologue or first episode of this.... why are you removing the engine?

Unlike my colleagues, I would offer some mechanical advice but I have problems just putting my airbox back on.

Marc in AK

kkim

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/174810-before-i-start.html

grab a chair and follow the progress of his work... live on must see, Toga Vision!!


Thanks, Max!

JasonAndreas

Sorry, I don't have the correct torque specification for the oil line but I do have these;

paradisenb

Way to go Toga.

What time is the next Toga Vision program start?

Father of 3

You and me both brother.

mlincoln

Please keep the pictures coming.

Toga

Thanks guys,

Jason thank you for that list. I think the one we are looking for is on the last line. But I'm impressed they use loctite only on the selector rod bolt. I was tempted to use it everywhere...

Let's go for a wrench hunt!

See you tonight!

Firren

Excellent write-up, Toga!