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Cars have a transport mode that sleeps the majority of the electronics. If you sat in your car off the transporter and played around, very little works. My TTS completed production first week in Sept, missing parts unknown, arrived end of Jan with battery at 83%- there is a read out in transport mode on the dash. It fell to 70% (another readout per the scanner) before being charged at the arriving port. I would think moving cars on temporary batteries with a swap out in Emden is unlikely, that’s a bit of work but a guess only. Upon delivery get a CTek maintainer and have your dealer wire the pigtail under the front cowl. You should be all set.
Yes, the car arrives essentially brain dead at the dealer, it can be started and moved, but little else. The dealer then plugs into the car (via OBD2 port I think) and downloads all the software etc to bring the car to life. When my was delivered, the system for this process was down for about 36 hours requiring a bit of a wait before the car was ready to go.
Yes, the car arrives essentially brain dead at the dealer, it can be started and moved, but little else. The dealer then plugs into the car (via OBD2 port I think) and downloads all the software etc to bring the car to life. When my was delivered, the system for this process was down for about 36 hours requiring a bit of a wait before the car was ready to go.
While I don't know how Porsche does it, this is not how BMW does it*
The battery cable is "disconnected" - I believe via a magnetic relay - and there is a tool that ships with the car that can snap that relay shut and thus make the battery active. So while the car is shipped, the battery is disconnected.
*Now, once the battery is activated - then yes, the car does need to be connected in the shop and "setup/programmed"
and... I found this all out when they accidentally left the tool on my car and I found it by the wiper. Wish I could find that thread on bimmerpost.com.....
Or, you can go with a longer CTEK piglet like the Comfort Connect "Indicator" Cable that is 19.5" long and comes with the (better fitting) M6 eyelets.
You attach it at the same points as in your photo and there is enough length in the cable to get you up into the cowl area of the lower windshield. In this way, you are able to charge your car with the hood closed. It also comes with a fuse. I just installed this recently after having the same (shorter) set up that you have.
$12.67 at Amazon.
Last edited by Diablo Dude; 04-04-2023 at 01:52 PM.
Or, you can go with a longer CTEK piglet like the Comfort Connect "Indicator" Cable that is 19.5" long and comes with the (better fitting) M6 eyelets.
You attach it at the same points as in your photo and there is enough length in the cable to get you up into the cowl area of the lower windshield. In this way, you are able to charge your car with the hood closed. It also comes with a fuse. I just installed this recently after having the same (shorter) set up that you have.
$12.67 at Amazon.
I actually have the long extension buried in front of the battery - so plenty of room to head up towards windshield - but I don't like that personally. I think it being nice and tucked in where it is looks better and has less of a chance of getting knocked around in the wind - and... I do like the idea of not closing the frunk all the way (and it still will let me arm the alarm that way). Because if something goes wrong, I can easily open it and get to the battery.
Oh and my darn outlet is in front of the car
But it is important to note (as you have) that the optional pigtail is longer than the one included!
It's interesting - I saw yours and thought - that sucks - you have to come out up on the windshield and that thing flaps around while driving.
So tell me, what makes not opening the frunk better? I'm curious if I'm missing something.
It's secured with a bit of velcro, doesn't flap, barely visible (I've got photo posts). As for the frunk issue, if the battery goes below a certain voltage it shuts down everything. You have to open the car with the aux key, jump the fuses to open the frunk, and then get to the battery. If you don't like my solution, there's a really slick one which runs the leads to the grill area with an adapter that is magnetic. The whole point is that if the Li battery goes to sleep, the car is dead and getting the battery back to life is a PITA. By installing the CTEK cable as I have done (and others as well), even if you find yourself in battery hell, you don't have to go through all the hassle. Plug in your CTEK, hold the reset for about 10 seconds, and it will go into recovery mode.
The 992 may drain the battery if parked over a period of time (what that is exactly is yet to be determined), the Li battery is much more susceptible to that than the normal battery. Being able to recover the battery from a shut down (not failed) state w/o going through the process is a good thing. Don't you agree?
It's secured with a bit of velcro, doesn't flap, barely visible (I've got photo posts). As for the frunk issue, if the battery goes below a certain voltage it shuts down everything. You have to open the car with the aux key, jump the fuses to open the frunk, and then get to the battery. If you don't like my solution, there's a really slick one which runs the leads to the grill area with an adapter that is magnetic. The whole point is that if the Li battery goes to sleep, the car is dead and getting the battery back to life is a PITA. By installing the CTEK cable as I have done (and others as well), even if you find yourself in battery hell, you don't have to go through all the hassle. Plug in your CTEK, hold the reset for about 10 seconds, and it will go into recovery mode.
The 992 may drain the battery if parked over a period of time (what that is exactly is yet to be determined), the Li battery is much more susceptible to that than the normal battery. Being able to recover the battery from a shut down (not failed) state w/o going through the process is a good thing. Don't you agree?
I'm confused. Going out the frunk, means it stays open while charging. Something goes wrong (charger loses power, shuts off, etc), and I open the frunk and have full access to the battery. And yes, I have the Li-ion - as I have had with my M3. So why go out the top of frunk? I'm still trying to understand.
I'm confused. Going out the frunk, means it stays open while charging. Something goes wrong (charger loses power, shuts off, etc), and I open the frunk and have full access to the battery. And yes, I have the Li-ion - as I have had with my M3. So why go out the top of frunk? I'm still trying to understand.
The issue is what happens if the battery goes to sleep and the car is locked and the frunk is closed. Perhaps you leave on an extended business trip and forget to connect a battery maintainer. You come back to a dead car. You can't unlock the car except with the hidden key in the fob. Then you have to follow the procedure to put enough power into the car to open the frunk (there is no manual release). Not fun. By locating your maintainer's plug where it is accessible with the car locked, frunk closed, you can still plug in the maintainer and breath life into the battery (I think the auto shutdown is set at 10.6V). No, it doesn't flop around and is almost invisible. The plug has a rubber stopper which prevents water intrusion. There are several posts showing alternative solutions, but the common feature is accessibility with frunk closed.
(comfort indicator 56-382). If that isn't the correct part number, I’d be grateful if someone could give me correct number. Thanks
Per the reports above, the comfort connect with indicator comes with a longer cable. While the M8 connector will work just fine 56-382 - above I think @F8Driver said the M6 fits better? 56-629
Alternatively, you can use the one that came with your Ctek and buy the extension cable. 56-304 - with the only downside being that you need to hide the excess cable somewhere. I put mine in front of the battery.
03-28-2023, 05:46 PM
