Battery Charging Issue
01-29-2022, 08:37 PM
#76
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That should probably tell you all you need to know.
siberian
siberian
Thanks for the response though. I appreciate it.
01-29-2022, 08:57 PM
#78
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It's a good name, but no idea what they're worth. I do know CTEK saved my behind and I use them on all my cars: wet cell, AGM and LiFePO4. They work. Just my 2 cents of course
siberian
Last edited by siberian; 01-29-2022 at 09:00 PM.
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M3Inline6 (01-29-2022)
01-29-2022, 09:02 PM
#79
Drifting
Last edited by M3Inline6; 01-29-2022 at 09:03 PM.
01-29-2022, 09:05 PM
#80
Another vote for CTEK. They also make the Porsche and BMW branded ones.
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M3Inline6 (01-29-2022)
01-29-2022, 09:06 PM
#81
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The CTEK is indeed strong; May the Force be with you!
Yes they do. I didn't want to totally unscrew the ground post so I cut out a sliver from the pigtail connector and slid it in tightening it. Works as advertised.
siberian
Yes they do. I didn't want to totally unscrew the ground post so I cut out a sliver from the pigtail connector and slid it in tightening it. Works as advertised.
siberian
01-30-2022, 02:53 AM
#82
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PS. The other cool thing on the Ctek (56-926 model) - if your battery were to go into sleep mode (when it gets to 10%), you can press and hold the reset, and it will allegedly allow it to be charged as it will trip the BMS and allow a charge. I have not tried it, but it is supposed to do this at least on some cars.
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M3Inline6 (01-30-2022)
01-30-2022, 03:41 AM
#84
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How do you know that it does or doesn't reawaken it?
siberian
siberian
01-30-2022, 12:17 PM
#85
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Firstly, I am sure that others will have their opinion. But here is mine and started having LiPo batteries in 2013 which came in my Ferrari F12, so started to learn more about balance/float charging LiPo's - as that battery would only last 2-3 weeks max being off a charger, thus my first non AGM/Lead Acid battery in an sports car or exotic and nearly every one of my fun cars now have them and I follow the same logic (not that I am right, but here is what I have learned).
With that - there have been discussion on this for a few years (991 and 992 forums). Also, if you think back why car makers put the ground post (or people when jumping a car use the negative to a part of the frame). The reason is due to lead acid batteries produce gases, and if there is an arch those gases catch fire, lead acid battery then can explode (though this is rare, this has happened). Thus having a gap between positive and negative = no arching = no potential explosion...
Enter lipo - no gases emitted, can arch of course which would be bad for the battery. But when you are installing a pig tail (on a AGM/Lead Acid or lipo) you do not have power to it when connecting. Also once it is attached to both poles, you would not have any arching either - as both are solidly connected.
Some of the advanced LiPos also utilize the ground as part of the safety communication as well, and to fully have a fully looped communication and load balancing effect.
If you go to most manufactures (like Ctek) read the installation or hook up instructions, I do not know of any that do not say when permanently hooking up their chargers not to hook both positive and negative. I believe I also read that the charge rate or amp on lipo chargers are somewhat effected when not hooked to both as well, trying to find that in my Ctek Manual. It should still work, just not at optimal charge rate/amps.
With that - there have been discussion on this for a few years (991 and 992 forums). Also, if you think back why car makers put the ground post (or people when jumping a car use the negative to a part of the frame). The reason is due to lead acid batteries produce gases, and if there is an arch those gases catch fire, lead acid battery then can explode (though this is rare, this has happened). Thus having a gap between positive and negative = no arching = no potential explosion...
Enter lipo - no gases emitted, can arch of course which would be bad for the battery. But when you are installing a pig tail (on a AGM/Lead Acid or lipo) you do not have power to it when connecting. Also once it is attached to both poles, you would not have any arching either - as both are solidly connected.
Some of the advanced LiPos also utilize the ground as part of the safety communication as well, and to fully have a fully looped communication and load balancing effect.
If you go to most manufactures (like Ctek) read the installation or hook up instructions, I do not know of any that do not say when permanently hooking up their chargers not to hook both positive and negative. I believe I also read that the charge rate or amp on lipo chargers are somewhat effected when not hooked to both as well, trying to find that in my Ctek Manual. It should still work, just not at optimal charge rate/amps.
What you're saying about gases makes sense... but for whatever reason they still recommend keeping the neg connection away from the battery to reduce chance of sparks.
Last edited by achilleas101; 01-30-2022 at 12:27 PM.
01-31-2022, 02:47 AM
#86
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If the battery does not start charging (after holding the CTEK charger button pressed for more than 10 seconds) .....
..... which the charger tells you (lights on the top row) .....
..... then the battery is still in "sleep mode".
..... which the charger tells you (lights on the top row) .....
..... then the battery is still in "sleep mode".
Last edited by Joan Alcover; 01-31-2022 at 02:48 AM.
01-31-2022, 02:48 AM
#87
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Sorry, yep, makes sense
siberian
siberian
01-31-2022, 02:58 AM
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This is the manual for the Ctek lithium charger ( it does not distinguish between alligator clips or permanent wiring) and it directs you to use the chassis. The manual for car also says to connect to the ground post on the chassis, so pretty consistent guidance.
What you're saying about gases makes sense... but for whatever reason they still recommend keeping the neg connection away from the battery to reduce chance of sparks.
What you're saying about gases makes sense... but for whatever reason they still recommend keeping the neg connection away from the battery to reduce chance of sparks.
..... and the contrary in the image (hereafter) that shows a temporary or permanent connection directly to the battery!
01-31-2022, 03:34 AM
#89
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Proves you can't believe everything you read 
I'll stick to a Ground rather than the - post of the battery
siberian
I'll stick to a Ground rather than the - post of the battery
siberian
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KLOC (08-07-2022)
01-18-2023, 09:00 PM
#90
I've been looking through Rennlist to try to find posts that are similar to what I am experiencing but have not seen any.
Been having ongoing issues with battery in my 2021 992C2S delivered to dealer in 12/21. Some background:
1.). on my 3rd battery (1st was original battery delivered with car, 2nd was replacement battery which was then replaced about 6 months ago with my 3rd battery due to bad cell in replacement battery);
2.). car is either driven or on CTEK charger hooked up directly to battery as 12v socket in footwell never worked for me after months of trying and dealer assistance (I know, I know, it works for others, I've tried every iteration of what's been posted on this site and it doesn't work for my car);
3.). this 3rd battery now seems to be giving me issues as I am receiving "Chassis System Fault" errors after trying to restart car 5 to 10 minutes after 45 - 50 minute drive. Brought to dealer a week ago. Dealer found voltage drops, connected my Anti-gravity Battery tracker (they thought it was my trickle charger) from negative on battery to ground and sent me on my way;
4.). things were good for a few days but "Chassis System Fault" errors returned;
5.). based on what I can tell from what Battery Tracker is telling me it seems as though battery is holding charge at 13 volts when OFF trickle charger (I tried this as a test yesterday for 10 hours or so);
6.). when starting car battery voltage drops from 13.0 to 12.2 or so and stays there for the most part when driving. When braking I'm getting readings of 14 to 15 or so but that's only when braking. The Battery Tracker during driving shows the battery power slowly working it's way down from 100% power to low 50's or so (it might go even lower but at that point but I start getting concerned about the car shutting down on me and head home). So it seems to me that the car is not able to keep the battery charged and is actually discharging while driving. When I turn the car off for 5 or 10 minutes and then restart it the battery doesn't seem to have recovered (and may also become more fully discharged due to fan coming on to cool engine etc.) and I get the "Chassis System Fault" error.
7.). bringing the car back to dealer tomorrow.
I've seen posts about a Porsche bulletin about some kind of software upgrade that was needed for 2020 and 2021 992's due to battery discharge and sent to dealer but they did not think that was applicable to my situation (I did not ask for VAL report). I've also seen posts about grounding straps but am not sure if that would apply to what I am experiencing.
Aside from the Antigravity Battery Tracker the only other after market device I have installed in the car is a radar detector. I tapped into rear view mirror light to run this and have disconnected this to see if that made any difference in what I was experiencing and it did not.
Just curious anyone else has experienced this fact pattern.
Thanks.
Been having ongoing issues with battery in my 2021 992C2S delivered to dealer in 12/21. Some background:
1.). on my 3rd battery (1st was original battery delivered with car, 2nd was replacement battery which was then replaced about 6 months ago with my 3rd battery due to bad cell in replacement battery);
2.). car is either driven or on CTEK charger hooked up directly to battery as 12v socket in footwell never worked for me after months of trying and dealer assistance (I know, I know, it works for others, I've tried every iteration of what's been posted on this site and it doesn't work for my car);
3.). this 3rd battery now seems to be giving me issues as I am receiving "Chassis System Fault" errors after trying to restart car 5 to 10 minutes after 45 - 50 minute drive. Brought to dealer a week ago. Dealer found voltage drops, connected my Anti-gravity Battery tracker (they thought it was my trickle charger) from negative on battery to ground and sent me on my way;
4.). things were good for a few days but "Chassis System Fault" errors returned;
5.). based on what I can tell from what Battery Tracker is telling me it seems as though battery is holding charge at 13 volts when OFF trickle charger (I tried this as a test yesterday for 10 hours or so);
6.). when starting car battery voltage drops from 13.0 to 12.2 or so and stays there for the most part when driving. When braking I'm getting readings of 14 to 15 or so but that's only when braking. The Battery Tracker during driving shows the battery power slowly working it's way down from 100% power to low 50's or so (it might go even lower but at that point but I start getting concerned about the car shutting down on me and head home). So it seems to me that the car is not able to keep the battery charged and is actually discharging while driving. When I turn the car off for 5 or 10 minutes and then restart it the battery doesn't seem to have recovered (and may also become more fully discharged due to fan coming on to cool engine etc.) and I get the "Chassis System Fault" error.
7.). bringing the car back to dealer tomorrow.
I've seen posts about a Porsche bulletin about some kind of software upgrade that was needed for 2020 and 2021 992's due to battery discharge and sent to dealer but they did not think that was applicable to my situation (I did not ask for VAL report). I've also seen posts about grounding straps but am not sure if that would apply to what I am experiencing.
Aside from the Antigravity Battery Tracker the only other after market device I have installed in the car is a radar detector. I tapped into rear view mirror light to run this and have disconnected this to see if that made any difference in what I was experiencing and it did not.
Just curious anyone else has experienced this fact pattern.
Thanks.