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911 GT3 Touring - ResoNix - Unwanted Rattle & Resonance Reduction

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Old 09-26-2023, 12:32 PM
  #16  
ResoNix Sound Solutions
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Originally Posted by Matt(inMA)
You may have already said it but this thread is a lot to read through for me How much weight does this add to the car?

Thanks
One of the first things I posted because I knew it would be asked

We ended up using:
These products were used in the doors, rear parcel shelf/quarter panel area, and the wheel wells. In total, we added approximately 40lbs and had a drastic difference before and after.
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Old 09-26-2023, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by rosenbergendo
Alternatively buy a Turbo and not a GT car.
Or buy the car you want and do what you want with it
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Old 09-26-2023, 01:04 PM
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Alan C.
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I had my car plasti dipped. Zero issues. Also works great at preventing road rash. 🤣
Old 09-26-2023, 03:33 PM
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Order placed. Thanks for putting this together.
Old 09-26-2023, 04:03 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by dixonk
Order placed. Thanks for putting this together.
Thanks!

By the way, for anyone looking to purchase this kit, you can order right through the site, right here.

ResoNix Porsche 911 Sound Deadening Kit

Last edited by ResoNix Sound Solutions; 09-26-2023 at 11:45 PM.
Old 09-26-2023, 09:26 PM
  #21  
12v Nick
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Incredibly useful and detailed write-up, Nick — It's really nice to see objectionable data to support the install!!!

I have a few questions on your measurements:

1.) Are these average measurements over a specific timeframe? or are they just snapshots of a single moment?

2.) Where are you positioning the mic and how are you isolating from physical interference?

Thanks for sharing this info — I know first hand how much time it takes to document something like this!
Old 09-26-2023, 09:37 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ResoNix Sound Solutions
Moving on to the doors themselves. First things first, I removed the access panel and the midbass speaker so I can easily access the outer door skin, which is way more important to treat than the inner door skin. The reason why is very simple. The outer skin is much flatter and has little to no structure to it. Inner skins are usually full of dips, crevaces, bends, and supports, so it naturally is very strong and has little resonance.
Question for you @ResoNix Sound Solutions - with this in mind, I have seen a lot of folks applying material to both the outer AND inner door skin (like in the image, below). From what you've written, is the logical conclusion that there'd be little incremental benefit to taking this approach (both outer AND inner skins and panel covers)?

I only ask because it seems to be a common (if not entirely effective?) approach...

Thanks for the post and the products!


Old 09-26-2023, 09:48 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 12v Nick
Incredibly useful and detailed write-up, Nick — It's really nice to see objectionable data to support the install!!!

I have a few questions on your measurements:

1.) Are these average measurements over a specific timeframe? or are they just snapshots of a single moment?

2.) Where are you positioning the mic and how are you isolating from physical interference?

Thanks for sharing this info — I know first hand how much time it takes to document something like this!
What's up Nick! (Oh man, this is going to get confusing lol)

1) These are averages over a pre-determined stretch of road, going a pre-determined speed, in a pre-determined gear. I should probably clarify that. Measurement settings for REW for this test were 1/48 RTA (smoothed to 1/3rd after the fact), 64k FFT Length, Averaging forever, Hann window, 94% overlap.

2) I knew this question would eventually be asked before I even started this, so I spend a good amount of time (2 days actually) just figuring out how to mount the microphone to get the most reliable and repeatable results. Before I get into that, I gotta mention that the mic used for these measurements is important to note here. It is an Earthworks M23. Very high quality reference microphone. The most important thing about it in this case is that they are built in a way to have no handling noise. The measurement capsule is decoupled from the mic's body, so any fear of vibrations or shock of the microphone housing itself interfering with the measurement are alleviated. This was confirmed with them directly before doing these measurements. But back to the testing. I tried a few ways just to make sure. The first way was having the mic on a stand in the passenger seat. Honestly, this didn't even make it very far as it just wasn't practical from an ergonomics standpoint. Next was hanging the mic from its cable from the passenger sun visor. This seemed like a great way to even further decouple the mic from the car, but in reality it proved that it also wasn't feasible as it swung around too much. Then I tried to hang it between the two seats. This worked well, but two things happened. First, sometimes the mic would bounce into one of the two seats, and the noise created from hitting the seat would cause a spike on the RTA, and also, it was just bulky and annoying to deal with. What I ended up doing, and of course I tested this one last because why would anything work the best the first time lol... I attached the mic to a pole, and very securely tied down that pole to the rear parcel shelf with the mic pointing forward with the tip residing just behind the center of the two front seats. Turns out this wasnt just the easiest to set up and most ergonomic, but also provided the most consistent results.during testing. Seems like just making it attached securely to the body and letting the mic work its magic was the best bet. Having owned just about every mic out there that we use in our industry, all of the cheap ones do have handling noise. Just shaking it in your hand generates noise on an RTA. This is not the case for the Earthworks mics. Reason number 306 why I recommend them lol.
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Old 09-26-2023, 10:00 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by null
Question for you @ResoNix Sound Solutions - with this in mind, I have seen a lot of folks applying material to both the outer AND inner door skin (like in the image, below). From what you've written, is the logical conclusion that there'd be little incremental benefit to taking this approach (both outer AND inner skins and panel covers)?

I only ask because it seems to be a common (if not entirely effective?) approach...

Thanks for the post and the products!
I have a video coming out soon that goes over this entire install in more detail than this write up does. One of the things I talk about during the door section is this exact thing. For normal driving applications, and even in many sound system applications, the inner door skin (of most cars) is typically strong enough and non-resonant enough to not really need much treatment if any at all. Remember, Constrained Layer Dampers are ONLY used on the body of a car to reduce structure-borne resonance. It is NOT to block or absorb outside noise. If the inner door skin doesn't have any undesirable amount of resonance, there isn't really any point to applying a CLD to said inner door skin. On the other hand, the plastic door panel is always a problem, yet people focus on the inner skin more than the door panel and it just doesn't make sense. In a 992, and especially a 991 with those giant and crazy-shaped plastic inserts, I'm probably not wasting my time doing the inner door skin at all unless there is some serious power behind that sound system.

For those looking to learn more, the ResoNix website is LOADED with information about all things automotive sound treatment, and even more subjects such as DSP Tuning. Highlights include..

Independent Sound Deadening Testing - Testing done by a third party (we only host the data so it's easy to find instead of being buried forever on a facebook group) on many different sound deadening products to gauge resonance control performance.

ResoNix Reference Information & Guide - Don't know a thing about how to sound treat a vehicle, and are smart enough to know that random people on the internet and youtube don't know a damn thing? Well, here you go. The most complete and informative article on the whats, whys, hows, and more on automotive sound treatment and the products used. Note, this is extremely long, but the General Synopsis section is even more detailed and data-backed than anything else on the web. This article is going to be cleaned up soon to be less scattered.

ResoNix Buyer's Guide - Just read the Reference Information & Guide page, but still unsure of what to use and where in your specific application? Look no further.
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Old 09-27-2023, 04:02 PM
  #25  
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Really appreciate this post and the detailed documentation. It's hard to appreciate what 5dB means across that frequency range, but the low roar of background noise in this car is one of my biggest complaints. Look forward very much to videos.
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Old 09-30-2023, 06:50 PM
  #26  
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I had my GT3 in Nick's shop some time back to build a custom sub box (went on the rear deck behind my GMG roll bar). I should probably post a thread on that build, as it came out really sweet. Back on topic, in the process of installing that box, we put a layer of CLD under the box (I.e. on top of the engine cover) and some fiber mat into the rear wheel wells. Not quite as much as in the pics from this build as I'm not really looking for a "quiet" GT3 (for context, I have a Dundon exhaust), but I just wanted to ensure my stereo sounded right without rattling things. One of my other hobbies is car audio sq, including occasional competitions, so it's an interesting thing to balance with a track-going car that I still wanted to install a system into.

Anyways, my main point is just that Nick's product is great. He's been working on P cars for quite some time.
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Old 10-02-2023, 04:04 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Anu2g
I had my GT3 in Nick's shop some time back to build a custom sub box (went on the rear deck behind my GMG roll bar). I should probably post a thread on that build, as it came out really sweet. Back on topic, in the process of installing that box, we put a layer of CLD under the box (I.e. on top of the engine cover) and some fiber mat into the rear wheel wells. Not quite as much as in the pics from this build as I'm not really looking for a "quiet" GT3 (for context, I have a Dundon exhaust), but I just wanted to ensure my stereo sounded right without rattling things. One of my other hobbies is car audio sq, including occasional competitions, so it's an interesting thing to balance with a track-going car that I still wanted to install a system into.

Anyways, my main point is just that Nick's product is great. He's been working on P cars for quite some time.
Whats up Anu! Would love for you to post those pics from the subwoofer enclosure build we did. And yes, you are also no stranger to how the ResoNix products perform. Thank you for the kind words.
Old 10-09-2023, 01:01 PM
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Omfg what amazing work! Thanks so much for posting this Nick as well as the data!

Subscribed. I’m putting the GT3 into winter storage mode in ~2.5 weeks so it’s the perfect time to tackle something like this while it’s in hibernation. I think I’ll do ~75% of this and see how it goes.

Old 10-10-2023, 11:16 AM
  #29  
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Anyone have a link to the pre and post install drive videos?
Old 10-28-2023, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by LJ-GT3
Anyone have a link to the pre and post install drive videos?
Theyre coming out very soon!

I just uploaded the Introduction video that explains a few things first. I should have the doors, rear, and wheel well videos uploaded before the end of next week as well, and soon after that, will have the measurements and their explanations video, and then the before and after recordings.


ResoNix Sound Solutions Porsche 911 Sound Treatment Video Guide - Part 1: Introduction


Last edited by ResoNix Sound Solutions; 10-28-2023 at 09:38 PM.
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