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Seriously impressive work, @dixonk ! I’m good at hearing the rattles but too chicken to do anything about it. Just need @ResoNix Sound Solutions to open shop in Calgary, Nick.
Seriously impressive work, @dixonk ! I’m good at hearing the rattles but too chicken to do anything about it. Just need @ResoNix Sound Solutions to open shop in Calgary, Nick.
The resonix solution has been instrumental in this. The videos and product information that Nick has put out there has been game changing in helping me quickly identify noises and most importantly how to most effectively correct them. And for the weight conscious crowd, it’s the CLD tiles that add weight. Other than the door skins, the rear fenders and a couple floor pan spots, there really isn’t a need to go crazy with CLD tiles to stop the bulk of resonance. Remember it only stops resonance so the way I went about it is I would put some CLD and constantly test the panel for resonance. Once it sounded right I didn’t apply anymore. I still have a good quantity of CLD tiles left over. I found the guardian and fibermat to be extremely effective on noise blocking. So this is where you focus on cutting out harsh road noise while adding almost no weight. Squeaks and rattles is all just little pieces of felt, rubber, or butyl rope as needed which again adds no real weight.
I have door materials on the way via my Musicar kit but Nick from Musicar recommended this for the rest of the car. Do you have a kit or suggestion for amount of material for just wheel wells/rear in a 992 C4S?
The leftovers I had from the door and rear area came in handy today. I had an annoying rattle/buzzing coming from the dash area. I pulled the trim piece and started tapping around. I noticed there was some plastic overlap and I also found the screen to rattle in the center. If you feel under the screen it’s not solidly mounted and can vibrate. I used the Butyl rope and pressed it into all the contact points and also wedged it under the screen to keep it from vibrating. I then used some of the thin foam and cut sections out to put on all the flat sections that have contact with the trim piece. I’m happy to report the rattle is gone and the car sounds tight going down the road.
Could you elaborate on your dash area buzz a little? I've noticed that my '24 has this really high pitched buzz sometimes coming from what sounds like the middle of the dash but I can't tell for sure if it's behind the screen or near where the aircon controls are. It only happens sometimes and usually at high RPMs when I'm pushing the car a little. Is yours similar to this?
I've done about 2K km in 2 months now and I do like how the car sounds stock road noise and all so I probably wouldn't do the full kit, but I'm tempted to just do the doors to get rid of some rattles... I wonder if ResoNix would sell something suitable for this.
Could you elaborate on your dash area buzz a little? I've noticed that my '24 has this really high pitched buzz sometimes coming from what sounds like the middle of the dash but I can't tell for sure if it's behind the screen or near where the aircon controls are. It only happens sometimes and usually at high RPMs when I'm pushing the car a little. Is yours similar to this?
I've done about 2K km in 2 months now and I do like how the car sounds stock road noise and all so I probably wouldn't do the full kit, but I'm tempted to just do the doors to get rid of some rattles... I wonder if ResoNix would sell something suitable for this.
For the center rattle that comes from what sounds like center console/AC vent area I found it to be a wiring harness under the AC controls. There is a bundle of wires and there is a tag on the harness. I pulled the center console and there aren’t any areas that resonate so I just stuffed some fibermat where the wires are bunched up under there. I used some thin felt like material resonix sent me and basically put down a few pieces on various trim pieces to keep it from all buzzing when I put it back together. The bottom of the cavity for the cupholder insert could use a bit of help. I put some material on the bottom of the insert to keep it from squeeking in its spot.
There is an another part dead center of driver on steering column and that is the little plastic leather cover that moves in and out with the steering column. It vibrates against the plastic. It’s easy enough to reach under the steering column adjustment and release the tab for that cover. Pull it back and feel where it joins the trim pieces. That’s plastic on plastic and I used a little butyl rope to wedge underneath in between the two pieces. Then I applied a few pieces of the felt like rubber material and snapped it back on. The steering column resonates a bit so applying a few squares of CLD won’t hurt but I would only add CLD as needed because it weighs more than other methods.
I am happy to report that after fixing all of the areas I mentioned in this thread my car is rattle and squeak free. Also changed out my rotors to ST rotors and Pagid RSC1 pads to get rid of the squeeling brakes.
For the center rattle that comes from what sounds like center console/AC vent area I found it to be a wiring harness under the AC controls. There is a bundle of wires and there is a tag on the harness. I pulled the center console and there aren’t any areas that resonate so I just stuffed some fibermat where the wires are bunched up under there. I used some thin felt like material resonix sent me and basically put down a few pieces on various trim pieces to keep it from all buzzing when I put it back together. The bottom of the cavity for the cupholder insert could use a bit of help. I put some material on the bottom of the insert to keep it from squeeking in its spot.
There is an another part dead center of driver on steering column and that is the little plastic leather cover that moves in and out with the steering column. It vibrates against the plastic. It’s easy enough to reach under the steering column adjustment and release the tab for that cover. Pull it back and feel where it joins the trim pieces. That’s plastic on plastic and I used a little butyl rope to wedge underneath in between the two pieces. Then I applied a few pieces of the felt like rubber material and snapped it back on. The steering column resonates a bit so applying a few squares of CLD won’t hurt but I would only add CLD as needed because it weighs more than other methods.
I am happy to report that after fixing all of the areas I mentioned in this thread my car is rattle and squeak free. Also changed out my rotors to ST rotors and Pagid RSC1 pads to get rid of the squeeling brakes.
Awesome, thanks for the detailed explanation. I'll have to see if I'm brave enough to attempt what you did taking apart the center console area to find the buzz/whine.
For now the only noises that annoy me are that center buzz/whine at high RPMs and the door rattles at low RPMs. I don't really hear anything at the steering column area and my brakes were only squeaky for the first couple of days. Now they are pretty much whisper quiet 99% of the time and I can hear a tiny little squeal when coming to a stop the other 1% of the time which doesn't bother me at all. I do like the idea of the ST rotors though, I'm just hesitant due to the warranty here also covering all my wear and tear for the next 5 years.
Awesome, thanks for the detailed explanation. I'll have to see if I'm brave enough to attempt what you did taking apart the center console area to find the buzz/whine.
For now the only noises that annoy me are that center buzz/whine at high RPMs and the door rattles at low RPMs. I don't really hear anything at the steering column area and my brakes were only squeaky for the first couple of days. Now they are pretty much whisper quiet 99% of the time and I can hear a tiny little squeal when coming to a stop the other 1% of the time which doesn't bother me at all. I do like the idea of the ST rotors though, I'm just hesitant due to the warranty here also covering all my wear and tear for the next 5 years.
Removing the center console is actually surprisingly easy and there isn’t really a lot of tabs that are prone to breaking or anything. It’s just a sequence of disassembling from the armrest to the AC controls. There is a decent video on YouTube that helps with removal. If you watch all the resonix series you will also have an understanding of which products will solve different rattles, squeaks, or harsh noises.
Removing the center console is actually surprisingly easy and there isn’t really a lot of tabs that are prone to breaking or anything. It’s just a sequence of disassembling from the armrest to the AC controls. There is a decent video on YouTube that helps with removal. If you watch all the resonix series you will also have an understanding of which products will solve different rattles, squeaks, or harsh noises.
is there any photos on first removing passenger side rear side trim and panels? I have a cabriolet which does seem a bit different but any guidance to not break clips would be most helpful. I have creaking from in there and dealer replaced the rear side tweeter grill which helped ever so slightly. The passenger front seat belt was defective and it got replaced as well but still noise in that rear side panel area. Thank you
is there any photos on first removing passenger side rear side trim and panels? I have a cabriolet which does seem a bit different but any guidance to not break clips would be most helpful. I have creaking from in there and dealer replaced the rear side tweeter grill which helped ever so slightly. The passenger front seat belt was defective and it got replaced as well but still noise in that rear side panel area. Thank you
Not sure how it is on a cab but on a coupe you need to remove B pillar and C pillar. The side panel is held on with friction from the window panel so pull up to clear the metal under the window and pull back once the bottom tabs clear. Don’t pull back far as the speaker and ambient light wire need to be disconnected.
Not sure how it is on a cab but on a coupe you need to remove B pillar and C pillar. The side panel is held on with friction from the window panel so pull up to clear the metal under the window and pull back once the bottom tabs clear. Don’t pull back far as the speaker and ambient light wire need to be disconnected.
thanks. Still working up the courage to try it. I believe the sill plate needs to be removed as well near door
thanks. Still working up the courage to try it. I believe the sill plate needs to be removed as well near door
Yeah I went back to it 3x before I put the right amount of force to free it up. It’s very tight. All the carpet and rear cover needs to come off as well
Yeah I went back to it 3x before I put the right amount of force to free it up. It’s very tight. All the carpet and rear cover needs to come off as well
can you clarify with the rear cover and carpet coming off? I have a 992 turbo s cab and unfortunately I don’t see many photos of those interior panels being off!
can you clarify with the rear cover and carpet coming off? I have a 992 turbo s cab and unfortunately I don’t see many photos of those interior panels being off!
Oh on the cabs I don’t know. On coupes there is a cover in the very rear that pulls straight out and is held on by a tether. The rear parcel shelf is held on by the anchors which pop off with a trim tool but looking at the pics the rear side covers can be removed with the carpet still in place. See below pictures showing where the panel is hooked on to as well as rearward panel that needs to come off.
Oh on the cabs I don’t know. On coupes there is a cover in the very rear that pulls straight out and is held on by a tether. The rear parcel shelf is held on by the anchors which pop off with a trim tool but looking at the pics the rear side covers can be removed with the carpet still in place. See below pictures showing where the panel is hooked on to as well as rearward panel that needs to come off.
There that blue shank is, a few inches above all around that area I push and squeaky all over. That is also with the tweeter grill removed. Going from the top is not possible too much convertible crap and metal maybe even an airbag canister. That panel must pull straight to the front of the car absolutely not up. The clip that I did not was indicating must be removed straight forward. Also a screw under the convertible cap holding this on.
12-15-2023, 11:47 AM
