bittrl1000

OK, well it seems like these clamps can slide ride off the steel line, so I guess I'll run to the store and buy some small diameter hose clamps.

lunarx

Look for Fuel Injection hose clamps.
The typical worm gear clamp has no place anywhere, on any car.
If you want real nice clamps, Baker Precision Racing sells some on their website.
http://www.bakerprecision.com/hoseclmp.htm

You can still use the factory clamps, but they are kind of permanent.
Here is the Ear Clamp Crimp Tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005G...t0L&ref=plSrch

bittrl1000

Well, it's done! The car sounds great once the valves open, but is very quiet under 3500 rpm. I'm excited to take my car to the dealership to have them install the new keypad and reprogram the ecu so I can have the valves open most of the time.

A few notes for anyone considering a DIY:

- I didn't need a few of the parts that are listed on some of the other threads: 1) 900-918-005-40
wasn't necessary because I could re-use the regular vacuum tube from the non-PSE exhaust, and 2) 999-651-401-01 wasn't necessary because the non-PSE exhaust has 4 of these, and I ended up needing only one.

-Some folks have said that the non-PSE tips do not work with the PSE. Well, they worked just fine for my 2012 991 C2S.

-I didn't take lunarx's good advice on how to crimp the steel vacuum lines. Instead, I just used a wire cutters to be able to crimp the clamp right next to the tube. Seemed to work just fine.

So far, I've spent $1,300 in parts, and expect to spend about $150 at the dealership to get them to install the keypad and reprogram ECU. I hope to be able to sell my old exhaust for a few hundred. So net cost might be around $1,100-$1,200.

bittrl1000

FYI, my dealership charged me $220 + tax to install the new switch assembly that I provided to them. So, before you factor any $ I may earn from selling my old hardware, this cost me a total of $1,530.

Leenseen

Thanks to all the contributors on this thread... I installed PSE on my C2S this weekend.

Took about 3hrs and wasn't too difficult.

Does anyone know if I can install the new switch in the console and then take to dealer for programming or the dealer has to do everything? (Install and Program)

bittrl1000

I am pretty sure it is possible to install the new keypad yourself. There are DIY instructions out there. I dont like pulling trim off, so I had my dealer install. Reprogramming the computer might be possible for an independent Porsche shop, but otherwise it requires the dealer.

plenum

Yes, see below....

Yes, you can definitely replace the switch unit yourself.... very easy to do actually since once you have the trim panels etc. off there is only a single cable connection to unclip. But, as noted by others, the reprogramming is going to require a dealer / PIWIS or an independent with same. Don't believe this is possible with any Durametric type tool. Check the official WM for details on what steps are required during reprogramming.

While not specifically a DIY to replace the switch unit, here is a DIY post about removing the unit, and you could simply swap-out for the new unit: DIY - Porsche 991 911 Center Console Trim Removal

Leenseen

Again thank you chaps... fitted the console this morning.

I put the PSE button in the second spot on the right and moved the auto stop/start below it.

Everything works except the auto stop start and PSE... as pretty much expected!!

At the same time I routed the IPod cable to the armrest.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=958437&page=1

ARugger

much appreciation to this site and all that have contributed to the PSE thread(s), just what I was looking for after discovering that this level of content does not exist at the PCA tech forums. Thanks to you all, I have no question that I can install it myself.

My '14 991 C2S needs a thrill boost. I was bent on getting PSE. The dealer wanted 5K for the parts and labor. For that price range, I seriously considered the Tubi (thanks to DrCollie). Ultimately decided on OEM, as the cost by DIY is attractive, keeping it OEM is still cool, and the effect hits the mark, for now anyway. Once I decide where to source the part from, the order is going out today.

I don't plan on getting the PSE button and programming, as I would never turn it off in sport or sport+ mode, and I would never turned it on in normal mode. More $ saved.

I do have a couple of questions, especially for bittrl1000, thanks in advance:
1) if you do this again, given your experience, would you still remove the bumper cover, bumper, and air boxes? it appears that there would be enough room after only the front "silencer" was removed.
2) were you able to reuse the retaining straps from the non PSE front silencer?

this place rocks!

kitwetzler

I've done the swap from the bottom with both PSE and non-PSE on my 991.1s. Once you disconnect from the bottom, (from the side cans, the exhaust manifold and the straps) you can pull the muffler out pretty easily. It does take some force, specially with the non-PSE muffler, because the bumper cover fits tightly, but aside from bending the heat shield a bit, no issues and WAY faster. The side mufflers are a bit of a pain to swing out - the brackets are not easy to line up but it just takes some wiggling.

991-111-481-01 seems to be the same part number PSE vs non-PSE. You'll need to extend the vacuum hoses (PSE valves are in the middle, non PSE are on the outside)

Just remember without PSE, your exhaust will automatically open at idle and close from about 1500-3500 rpm and then open back up. With the PSE Muffler, this means it's loud when you start it and when you are at idle... it's not THAT loud but something to be aware of. PSE programming means that the valves are closed at idle unless you press the button. It didn't bother me much (with the factory PSE muffler or the Cargraphics muffler I had) but it is noticeable.

bittrl1000

The center muffler can be removed without taking off the bumper cover and bumper, but I don't know how you would re-run the vacuum lines without doing this. I had to remove the airbox to get to the vacuum line that runs to the left valve on the non-pse, and I don't know how you do that without removing bumper. And I did not find removing the bumper to be difficult.

Yes, you can re-use the straps.

If you do not want to install the button because you want PSE on all the time, simply do not plug the vacuum line into the PSE, and instead cap it off.

ARugger

I ordered the front muffler, the steel flexi-pipe pieces, the "holder", the "seals", and some nuts. Gaudin Porsche had the best prices, and since I live in Vegas, I went down there. they reluctantly agreed to the Internet price, and they do not believe what I ordered will work, they wanted to sell me the kit, even though they have the VIN (I service the car there) and i reminded them it's an S.

thanks for the replies, I will attempt to leave the bumper cover on, with the front muffler and heat shield off, I'm hoping I'll be ok room wise. I am not planning to snake the plastic line through the steel flexi-pipe in its entirety, as has been advised, just enough to engage the clamps.

you guys rock, parts were shy of 1100, not bad.

ARugger

A friend and I installed the PSE last night, took us about five hours. I was surprised how easy it was, the disassembly and reassembly/install was smooth, the fitment was perfect. And, bittrl, you were spot on, there was no way I could remove and route the new vacuum lines without removing the bumper and bumper cover, and move the air box, per the retrofit technical doc anyway.

I did not get the button panel, as I believed that PSE would automatically be activated while in sport or sport+ mode. I now think that this is incorrect. The sound at idle is "nicer", but no difference that I can tell in sport or sport+, WFO or otherwise. I watched a vid today of a factory PSE in operation, when sport or sport+ was activated, the PSE did not automatically activate, it needed to be done manually, and the sound difference was obvious.

It would be cool if it were known if the electronics in the switch panel/ console were ready to go with just the addition of a button and a reprogram, but that is a moot point, since you can't purchase just the button. The added expense is not that big of a deal, I will still be under 1500, which is pretty damn good.

Comments welcome, and thanks again for all that contributed.

bittrl1000

You certainly can buy just the panel. I believe it's part #991-613-959-DML. When you order it from a dealer, just make sure you give them your VIN so they confirm the correct part to send you. It will be entire set of buttons that surround the sunroof controls (auto start/stop, suspension setting, sport mode, etc, plus the PSE button).

Given that you hooked up the vacuum lines, until you install the PSE button and have dealer reprogram ECU, the PSE should open up around 3,500 rpm. But you're right that after the car settles down after start, at idle, and going slowly around town, the sound is pretty much the same as non-PSE muffler.

**Edit: I actually think this is the part number I ordered: 991-613-957-05. Seems to be called a "Combo Switch". Your dealer should be able to help you find the exact part to order.

ARugger

Thanks for the advice. What I was trying to convey was that if the electronics in the switch panel would allow just the addition of the button, and a reprogram, to function properly, there would be no need to purchase a new switch panel. Seems like a waste, but again, maybe its not possible even if just the PSE button was available.

There is no change in sound in sport or sport+ in excess of 3500 rpm, or higher. I don't have any suspicion that there is an issue with the vacuum lines. If the OEM PSE needs to be manually switched on, no matter what mode (as this vid that I watched showed), then it makes sense that I am underwhelmed with the sound as it is now. But, I am confident that getting the switch panel and reprogram will give me what I am looking for.