Ongoing change over valve issues on 991
#107
I just switched out the coolant shut-off valve, heat exchanger, and PSE changeover valves without much issue - the valves were B versions and completely shot.. bulging and cracked all over. It was only maybe 1.5hrs worth of work total so not so bad. So now my PSE works again, but the heater still barely blows warm air even if i set it to 80+. If there was a vacuum leak I'd expect there to be some error, or even cause the PSE to not work again but everything else seems to work normally. Anything else I should check for?
#108
And my car is throwing P1432 again - vacuum leak. I assume I have another bad changeover valve. Getting 3 replaced last November cost $1200. This is ridiculous.
#109
Burning Brakes
Also, understand that some of us are not likely to change these COVs on our own, but paying $1,200 for 3 is ridiculous! Which 3?
#110
And your sure that the "vacuum leak" error was actually a COV failure? Unfortunately the error message will never be as specific as "COV #5" or anything like that, so it is a bit of hit-or-miss that you narrow down to a specific valve (some are much more obvious than others).
Also, understand that some of us are not likely to change these COVs on our own, but paying $1,200 for 3 is ridiculous! Which 3?
Also, understand that some of us are not likely to change these COVs on our own, but paying $1,200 for 3 is ridiculous! Which 3?
I don't know which three they were. I know the heater wasn't working. It was done by Park Place Porsche in Dallas when I was there over Supercomputing week last year.. $1127 or something like that.
Everything I've tested so far works - heater and PSE - not sure where to go from here as a DIY. It sucks and I feel like I'm going to have to write yet another big check to get it resolved.
#111
Finally figured out replacing heater change over valve.
I finally figured out how to replace the heater change over valve on my 2014 911 991 base. It really wasn't difficult. If you can replace your air filters, you can easily change COV's. Took me about an hour start to finish and requires only a few sockets and Torx sockets.
1) remove the fans mounted above the motor. Remove the plastic tubes that fit to the air filter.
2) Remove the rear spoiler. This may seem daunting at first but is very easy to do. This entire unit is held on by two bolts on the driver side (one under the coolant and oil inlets). Remove the four screws that attach the bumper cover to the spoiler. You will need to move the spoiler up to access these screws. Remove the covers on both sides of the screws that hold the rear brake lights on. There are three of them. You can choose to leave the brake lights in or take them out. It doesn't matter. Remove the plastic cover that hides the hood release on the passenger side (opposite side of coolant and oil inlets). Unplug the large plug that powers all of this stuff. The spoiler should lift up in the front and pull up and out. Set it aside.
You now have access to the top part of the engine. On the passenger side of the engine near the oil filter you will find three COV's. Two are are in plain site and very easy to access. These two are for the sound symposer and the other is for air cleaner I believe .The heater COV is to the right of both of these COV.s. It is tucked up under the passenger fender but still easily accessible
3) Remove mounted COV and unplug the hoses and electrical plug from the COV. The hoses can be a little difficult to remove. Take your time. They will come off. I recommend purchasing 3 COV valves in you are changing your heater COV. You could easily change the other two and potentially save you some time and money in the future.
I purchased the regular C version from my local dealer because that was all he had. If planning this repair, you could replace all three with the newer F spec for greater reliability. Please see short video for more details.
I have some pics I can also post if needed.
1) remove the fans mounted above the motor. Remove the plastic tubes that fit to the air filter.
2) Remove the rear spoiler. This may seem daunting at first but is very easy to do. This entire unit is held on by two bolts on the driver side (one under the coolant and oil inlets). Remove the four screws that attach the bumper cover to the spoiler. You will need to move the spoiler up to access these screws. Remove the covers on both sides of the screws that hold the rear brake lights on. There are three of them. You can choose to leave the brake lights in or take them out. It doesn't matter. Remove the plastic cover that hides the hood release on the passenger side (opposite side of coolant and oil inlets). Unplug the large plug that powers all of this stuff. The spoiler should lift up in the front and pull up and out. Set it aside.
You now have access to the top part of the engine. On the passenger side of the engine near the oil filter you will find three COV's. Two are are in plain site and very easy to access. These two are for the sound symposer and the other is for air cleaner I believe .The heater COV is to the right of both of these COV.s. It is tucked up under the passenger fender but still easily accessible
3) Remove mounted COV and unplug the hoses and electrical plug from the COV. The hoses can be a little difficult to remove. Take your time. They will come off. I recommend purchasing 3 COV valves in you are changing your heater COV. You could easily change the other two and potentially save you some time and money in the future.
I purchased the regular C version from my local dealer because that was all he had. If planning this repair, you could replace all three with the newer F spec for greater reliability. Please see short video for more details.
I have some pics I can also post if needed.
#112
Rennlist Member
I finally figured out how to replace the heater change over valve on my 2014 911 991 base. It really wasn't difficult. If you can replace your air filters, you can easily change COV's. Took me about an hour start to finish and requires only a few sockets and Torx sockets.
1) remove the fans mounted above the motor. Remove the plastic tubes that fit to the air filter.
2) Remove the rear spoiler. This may seem daunting at first but is very easy to do. This entire unit is held on by two bolts on the driver side (one under the coolant and oil inlets). Remove the four screws that attach the bumper cover to the spoiler. You will need to move the spoiler up to access these screws. Remove the covers on both sides of the screws that hold the rear brake lights on. There are three of them. You can choose to leave the brake lights in or take them out. It doesn't matter. Remove the plastic cover that hides the hood release on the passenger side (opposite side of coolant and oil inlets). Unplug the large plug that powers all of this stuff. The spoiler should lift up in the front and pull up and out. Set it aside.
You now have access to the top part of the engine. On the passenger side of the engine near the oil filter you will find three COV's. Two are are in plain site and very easy to access. These two are for the sound symposer and the other is for air cleaner I believe .The heater COV is to the right of both of these COV.s. It is tucked up under the passenger fender but still easily accessible
3) Remove mounted COV and unplug the hoses and electrical plug from the COV. The hoses can be a little difficult to remove. Take your time. They will come off. I recommend purchasing 3 COV valves in you are changing your heater COV. You could easily change the other two and potentially save you some time and money in the future.
I purchased the regular C version from my local dealer because that was all he had. If planning this repair, you could replace all three with the newer F spec for greater reliability. Please see short video for more details.
https://youtu.be/R63unvF2u64
I have some pics I can also post if needed.
1) remove the fans mounted above the motor. Remove the plastic tubes that fit to the air filter.
2) Remove the rear spoiler. This may seem daunting at first but is very easy to do. This entire unit is held on by two bolts on the driver side (one under the coolant and oil inlets). Remove the four screws that attach the bumper cover to the spoiler. You will need to move the spoiler up to access these screws. Remove the covers on both sides of the screws that hold the rear brake lights on. There are three of them. You can choose to leave the brake lights in or take them out. It doesn't matter. Remove the plastic cover that hides the hood release on the passenger side (opposite side of coolant and oil inlets). Unplug the large plug that powers all of this stuff. The spoiler should lift up in the front and pull up and out. Set it aside.
You now have access to the top part of the engine. On the passenger side of the engine near the oil filter you will find three COV's. Two are are in plain site and very easy to access. These two are for the sound symposer and the other is for air cleaner I believe .The heater COV is to the right of both of these COV.s. It is tucked up under the passenger fender but still easily accessible
3) Remove mounted COV and unplug the hoses and electrical plug from the COV. The hoses can be a little difficult to remove. Take your time. They will come off. I recommend purchasing 3 COV valves in you are changing your heater COV. You could easily change the other two and potentially save you some time and money in the future.
I purchased the regular C version from my local dealer because that was all he had. If planning this repair, you could replace all three with the newer F spec for greater reliability. Please see short video for more details.
https://youtu.be/R63unvF2u64
I have some pics I can also post if needed.
#113
I finally figured out how to replace the heater change over valve on my 2014 911 991 base. It really wasn't difficult. If you can replace your air filters, you can easily change COV's. Took me about an hour start to finish and requires only a few sockets and Torx sockets.
1) remove the fans mounted above the motor. Remove the plastic tubes that fit to the air filter.
2) Remove the rear spoiler. This may seem daunting at first but is very easy to do. This entire unit is held on by two bolts on the driver side (one under the coolant and oil inlets). Remove the four screws that attach the bumper cover to the spoiler. You will need to move the spoiler up to access these screws. Remove the covers on both sides of the screws that hold the rear brake lights on. There are three of them. You can choose to leave the brake lights in or take them out. It doesn't matter. Remove the plastic cover that hides the hood release on the passenger side (opposite side of coolant and oil inlets). Unplug the large plug that powers all of this stuff. The spoiler should lift up in the front and pull up and out. Set it aside.
You now have access to the top part of the engine. On the passenger side of the engine near the oil filter you will find three COV's. Two are are in plain site and very easy to access. These two are for the sound symposer and the other is for air cleaner I believe .The heater COV is to the right of both of these COV.s. It is tucked up under the passenger fender but still easily accessible
3) Remove mounted COV and unplug the hoses and electrical plug from the COV. The hoses can be a little difficult to remove. Take your time. They will come off. I recommend purchasing 3 COV valves in you are changing your heater COV. You could easily change the other two and potentially save you some time and money in the future.
I purchased the regular C version from my local dealer because that was all he had. If planning this repair, you could replace all three with the newer F spec for greater reliability. Please see short video for more details.
https://youtu.be/R63unvF2u64
I have some pics I can also post if needed.
1) remove the fans mounted above the motor. Remove the plastic tubes that fit to the air filter.
2) Remove the rear spoiler. This may seem daunting at first but is very easy to do. This entire unit is held on by two bolts on the driver side (one under the coolant and oil inlets). Remove the four screws that attach the bumper cover to the spoiler. You will need to move the spoiler up to access these screws. Remove the covers on both sides of the screws that hold the rear brake lights on. There are three of them. You can choose to leave the brake lights in or take them out. It doesn't matter. Remove the plastic cover that hides the hood release on the passenger side (opposite side of coolant and oil inlets). Unplug the large plug that powers all of this stuff. The spoiler should lift up in the front and pull up and out. Set it aside.
You now have access to the top part of the engine. On the passenger side of the engine near the oil filter you will find three COV's. Two are are in plain site and very easy to access. These two are for the sound symposer and the other is for air cleaner I believe .The heater COV is to the right of both of these COV.s. It is tucked up under the passenger fender but still easily accessible
3) Remove mounted COV and unplug the hoses and electrical plug from the COV. The hoses can be a little difficult to remove. Take your time. They will come off. I recommend purchasing 3 COV valves in you are changing your heater COV. You could easily change the other two and potentially save you some time and money in the future.
I purchased the regular C version from my local dealer because that was all he had. If planning this repair, you could replace all three with the newer F spec for greater reliability. Please see short video for more details.
https://youtu.be/R63unvF2u64
I have some pics I can also post if needed.
#114
The following users liked this post:
Porsche_nuts (10-21-2019)
#115
Rennlist Member
I had some intermittent heat issues on my car last winter and the changeover valve is likely the cause. While it is working well at the moment, I'm going to have a CO valve and your write-up on hand for when it gives me trouble again (likely on the coldest day of the year).
#116
Rennlist Member
Agreed, my heat COV is being replaced today. CPO ended less than a month ago - it probably stopped working under CPO, but did not need heat... no warnings on the dash ever, just no heat. Porsche has confirmed COV to blame. Only replacing damaged COV not the other two in area - C$750 estimate...
#117
Rennlist Member
Agreed, my heat COV is being replaced today. CPO ended less than a month ago - it probably stopped working under CPO, but did not need heat... no warnings on the dash ever, just no heat. Porsche has confirmed COV to blame. Only replacing damaged COV not the other two in area - C$750 estimate...
The part is only $50-60
#118
The following users liked this post:
Carlo_Carrera (11-11-2019)
#120
Nordschleife Master
see post 111 on how to diy