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Why don't you reach out to Mitch/M-Engineering directly? They recently E-tuned my 991.1 with Cobb. They were good to deal with, very prompt.
I already have, a couple of times.
This is not a criticism its just how it is.
My belief is Mitch is a top level programmer. He has the keys to the kingdom. He can unlock the code and give access. That is a very rare skill.
Tuning is a very different skill.
My guy tunes world record holding drag cars. He has done hundreds of hours on my tune. My car is probably the slowest thing he tunes. Most cars he tunes are 1,000 plus hp GTR’s and EVO’s.
Mitch does a few hours on a tune.
I tried Mitches tune. The one with the fix is slower than my car. The one that is almost as fast as my car, has the issue.
So i went back to my tune. Its faster and rarely has the issue. He never charged me by the way.
However because Mitch has the keys to the kingdom, we noticed he turned the fuel pressure up. (That’s cheating 🤣 )
If he could unlock that on my COBB for my Pro-tuner to have access to that, then game over.
I am happy to pay to have extra stuff unlocked, but the response has been, “We don’t share.”
So we need to find a coder who is not a tuner. Get them to unlock more code, for our tuner to have more access. (COBB - This is supposed to be YOUR job! You have one job- give Pro-Tuners more access!)
The 3.8 has almost everything unlocked with years if development. Bugger all is unlocked on our 3.0. Way more can be done, its just no one feels there is a market to spend the time unlocking it.
Man, I would be happy to pay hourly rate to have a coder sit there and start unlocking stuff to give the tuner more access.
The alternative is, MoTeC, as that unlocks everything. But they aren’t interested as yet.
We need some M770’s to show up a few of their cars to start creating attention and interest.
Oh man, you brought so many memories flooding back.
The great news is, every other tyre is considerably better than the stock ones. 🤣
Cup2 was a big step up.
TrofeoR another huge step up.
Cup2-R transforms the car.
You will burn rear brake pads by leaving full traction on. Its a different car with half off and it is pure with full off. Work up to it. It will save you dollars on rear pads. I killed a brand new set of oem pads in 3 x 20min sessions from brand new leaving t/c on. Full off i burn 4-5 sets of fronts to one rear.
I am looking forward to upgrading tires. But for the first time out with the 911 the OEM ones were fine. Also it was a conscious choice to leave TC full on for the first day. Will definitely go to half off/on the next time out.
Rear pads were at near new conditions, will be curious to see what damage was done. There only one time that I noticed the TC limit the power that was out of turn 1 on to the long straight (Area 27), and I was a deep into the throttle a bit quicker which I did on purpose, but the 911 said nope. haha.
Silly question, but do you DD your track tires? or are you swapping them at the track? I am leaning towards a 2nd wheel set/track tires (to drive to and from the track), and DD set. This last drive was 700 km from our condo, which is 350 km from home. Plus we are driving everyday in the mountains. Worried how a set of Cup 2s would do with DD duty (minus driving hard in the wet).
I am looking forward to upgrading tires. But for the first time out with the 911 the OEM ones were fine. Also it was a conscious choice to leave TC full on for the first day. Will definitely go to half off/on the next time out.
Rear pads were at near new conditions, will be curious to see what damage was done. There only one time that I noticed the TC limit the power that was out of turn 1 on to the long straight (Area 27), and I was a deep into the throttle a bit quicker which I did on purpose, but the 911 said nope. haha.
Silly question, but do you DD your track tires? or are you swapping them at the track? I am leaning towards a 2nd wheel set/track tires (to drive to and from the track), and DD set. This last drive was 700 km from our condo, which is 350 km from home. Plus we are driving everyday in the mountains. Worried how a set of Cup 2s would do with DD duty (minus driving hard in the wet).
Cheers
Yes, I daily on track tyres . Normal Cup2 are actually the ultimate DD and wet weather tyre.
TrofeoR is fine in the wet, well, because we love a bit of over steer as track guys do. You are going so slow on the street in comparison that you your at over steer on the street, and if you do happen to notice, I normally jam the boot in deeper to have a laugh.
Once you’ve been full lock on the track at 170km/hr, nothing on the street even raise a pulse or an eyebrow.
So I am now daily driving Cup2-R. 🤣. But they don’t last long on track anyway, so are regularly refreshed.
We don’t get much rain here. For road courses when you expect rain, the normal cup2 is tyre of choice. For dry track PB’s cup2-R.
I’m still deciding if i get a set of 20inch forgeline GE1-R and run cup2-R on those and R7 for track.
or maybe get 19 inch and run Ferrari Challenge car Slicks.
I can’t run slicks at time attack. It puts you in open.
so the 20’s serve me better. But nice to play on our private track days where the boys bring the big toys to have fun.
What kind of life are you getting out of a set of Cup 2 or Cup 2 R?
How many sessions and KM on the streets?
They Cup 2R look nice
The normal cup2 has a few issues.
It’s good to set a time once, from new, then you have ruined them. The sidewall is far too soft to be considered a track tyre, and the rain grooves are so wide, they fold and V under lateral load. This prematurely chops them out. Every guy in our track group has split a cup2 bead. I wrote a thread about it in 2018. In my opinion, a cup2 is a fantastic wet weather and street performance tyre.
Whereas cup2-R is the ultimate track day tyre. No problem driving it on the street, but they are expensive, so you need deep pockets.
I get 4 hard track days from them as well as all the street driving in between, which mainly consists of driving to and from tracks and to and from the race mechanic. (Regular for mods.)
I will take note of km’s on this fresh set. But i usually just judge on track days and how important the next one is. I am changing these early as i have some important ones coming up.
I probably could get 6 practise days, going hard. But i prefer racing on fresh rubber.
This was a a couple of years ago. Any guesses as to whose GTS it was? 🤣
That was quite a few mods ago as well.
They put the camera guy in my car and i glued to the back of the, then Brand new 991.2 GT3-RS, over the mountain range.
They told me the camera man needed therapy after that day. 🤣
In my case, the cup 2 lasted well 3 track days and DD between them. With one of the sets, I used them on a fourth day, but laptimes drop significally. I've never splitted the bead, but I know people that had that problem.
4.0: Do you know if you can fit the 265 in the front with the stock Camber? I (still) have the OEM suspension with PDCC in my GTS
In my case, the cup 2 lasted well 3 track days and DD between them. With one of the sets, I used them on a fourth day, but laptimes drop significally. I've never splitted the bead, but I know people that had that problem.
4.0: Do you know if you can fit the 265 in the front with the stock Camber? I (still) have the OEM suspension with PDCC in my GTS
Caster is the issue. You will need adjustable Caster to move the wheel forward or it will rub on full lock.
I have all the E-Motion adjustable bars, so its not an issue for me.
So my tuner has spent many hours decoding more of the 3.0 ECU.
He now has far more access than before. Including raising fuel pressure, which i believe is necessary to run E85. I have been running E40 for a couple of years non stop, even on street daily.
In other news Tial has advised me, my GTS upgraded turbos code named M800 are ready to ship. 😎.
They are bigger than the current M660.
Part of the reason I have had my tuner start unlocking more access, so we can get a better tune with the new turbo’s.
08-18-2021, 04:26 PM
