When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's a a check valve, ie; allows flow only in one direction. Under low load there is no flow and the scavenge pumps pull crankcase vacuum because it's a closed system. under high load (and boost) the turbo applies additional vacuum in continuing the supply crankcase pressure. This feature component must be retained or the car will run like crap for nearly all conditions except WOT.
We have a coupe different valves in development right now (and intake tubes, which we've been testing for the last year). Shoot me a DM and I can give you more details and I might even have an older or used one we can part with.
FYI on the intake tubes, it's one of the parts Porsche did a really good job on. I HIGHLY recommend using a flow bench to verify your work so you don't spend a ton of time making a downgrade. I wish it were as simple as a larger round tube, it is not. We've 7 versions deep at this point and I've run CFD sims on well over 100 variations. Again, if you'd like to talk more on this feel free to shoot me a DM.
It's part of the PCV system. Removing it would make for a HUGE vacuum leak.
Is the metal rod support and zip tie necessary or can the separator weight be supported by the hoses? Looks kind of janky. Why not use the elongated hole in the intake pipe to support the separator?
Is the metal rod support and zip tie necessary or can the separator weight be supported by the hoses?
I wouldn't run without it. It takes no time to add, and without it the assembly is only supported by the hoses. There will be a significant amount of vibration without it. Can it survive without? Likely. Not something I would recommend unless very closely monitored. If a connection fails, you have a massive vacuum leak and the car will potentially not be drivable.
Here's a shot of how much was collected after an oil change. Everyone is going to have different results because everyone's driving conditions are different. We recommend draining at oil changes and after track days. Over time, this can amount to a decent amount of build up in the intercooler (reducing efficiency) and even pooling in low points within the intake tract.
I drained mine today. Was surprised to see how much oil collected in the AOS. Was empty last time I checked before doing the FVD tune. Voodoo magic! I don't track the car but do drive hard.
First oil change Monday since AOS was installed last May. Only about 900 miles since install and 1-2 mountain drives. No oil drained out of it.
More miles and drive it how it's meant to be driven
It can take a bit for the first accumulation, especially if only street driven. Blow-by vapors are somewhat sticky, so before anything accumulates to the point where it collects, the internal surfaces are going to build up a bit. After the first real drain and the unit is 'seasoned' you should be getting a bit more.
For street applications like yours, It's not going to hurt to check often, but you're going to find checking at oil intervals will be more productive.
I installed the Vektor AOS last month as I was doing my TiAL build and the install couldnt have been easier.
Ive yet to put enough miles on to drain/check the canister for accumulated oil from blow by, but my stock passenger side turbo and piping (see below) were filled with oil upon disassembly. The driver side turbo and piping was clean of oil), which means this is a no brainer mod.
This is what I discovered on my 24k mile 991.2 C4 (pass side):
The AOS will make sure this accumulation never happens again.
@VektorPerformance This looks like a great product! Based on the recommendation by @polobai I plan to make this upgrade. Any Black Friday or other holiday discounts expected in the near future?