Labor time for rear brake replacement
#31
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Vince:
unless you track your 991 - I would say with 50k on the rotors - you are still good with what you have. wrt type pads - I use OEM/ name brand aftermarket - nothing special unless you track your car..
Caliper bolts - personally I reused mine - they are big bolts and I find it hard to believe they go bad - if I was tracking my 991 I might have a different opinion - I did't see any degradation to mine when I removed them >> but then my magnetron/flux capacitor was off site when I did my brake job [being sarcastic]..
wear sensors - you will probably need - they get some abuse and unless you are very very very careful when you remove them - they will break. since I frequently jack up the 991 pull the wheels for any number of things - I just zip tied the wear sensors up to a hydraulic line so they don't get jacked up - and I don't rely on some sensor to tell me my pads are thin - my eyeballs do when I'm showing my 991 some love...
scan tool for retract rear pistons >? I use a c-clamp
have fun
kgl
unless you track your 991 - I would say with 50k on the rotors - you are still good with what you have. wrt type pads - I use OEM/ name brand aftermarket - nothing special unless you track your car..
Caliper bolts - personally I reused mine - they are big bolts and I find it hard to believe they go bad - if I was tracking my 991 I might have a different opinion - I did't see any degradation to mine when I removed them >> but then my magnetron/flux capacitor was off site when I did my brake job [being sarcastic]..
wear sensors - you will probably need - they get some abuse and unless you are very very very careful when you remove them - they will break. since I frequently jack up the 991 pull the wheels for any number of things - I just zip tied the wear sensors up to a hydraulic line so they don't get jacked up - and I don't rely on some sensor to tell me my pads are thin - my eyeballs do when I'm showing my 991 some love...
scan tool for retract rear pistons >? I use a c-clamp
have fun
kgl
#33
Rennlist Member
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FWIW, not including the PIA to deal with the CL's it averages 10 min per wheel to change pads. I removed the functionality of the brake sensors, so there is no time wasted with this nanny.
#34
Three Wheelin'
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1. I would replace the caliper bolts if you got the car used because you never know whether the previous guy who worked on it did it by the book. More likely they used an impact wrench and stretched the bolt excessively.
2. I never bother with brake pad sensors. There are plenty of unobstructed visually to eyeball how much meat on the pad before you need to replace it. I just pulled the old sensors out and shunted the leads, then seal it with epoxy to avoid moisture. This way the brake warning light won't light up on your dash.
3. You can reuse the old brake dampeners. Buy these 3M adhesive sheets from :
https://www.amazon.com/467MP-Clear-Adhesive-Transfer-length/dp/B007Y7CSAC/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=3m%20467mp&qid=1572810377&s=industrial&sr=1-8&tag=viglink20410-20
They are the same adhesives on the OEM dampeners. However, you have to clean the old adhesives and they are messy if you use any solvents. I use a heat gun to soften the adhesive residues and then buff it off on a bench grinder. Then all you have to do is cut the 3M sheet to size, stick one side to the dampener, leaving the other wax sheet on and then cut to the round contours of the dampener. Then slot back to the caliper piston. Lastly remove the sheet of wax paper prior to mounting the caliper. One sheet of the 3M will do the entire brake set and cost a few dollars instead of the astronomical price of new dampeners. Believe me, new dampeners have the exact same 3M adhesives attached to them.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=4747
You need 4 per caliper (but different sizes) on the rear. Even a non-OEM Uro dampener cost you $9.75 each......you do the math. The fronts are even more. If you use original Porsche ones will cost you a fortune.
2. I never bother with brake pad sensors. There are plenty of unobstructed visually to eyeball how much meat on the pad before you need to replace it. I just pulled the old sensors out and shunted the leads, then seal it with epoxy to avoid moisture. This way the brake warning light won't light up on your dash.
3. You can reuse the old brake dampeners. Buy these 3M adhesive sheets from :
![https://www.amazon.com/467MP-Clear-Adhesive-Transfer-length/dp/B007Y7CSAC/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=3m%20467mp&qid=1572810377&s=industrial&sr=1-8&tag=viglink20410-20](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/misc/amazon_icon.gif)
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=4747
You need 4 per caliper (but different sizes) on the rear. Even a non-OEM Uro dampener cost you $9.75 each......you do the math. The fronts are even more. If you use original Porsche ones will cost you a fortune.
Last edited by HenryPcar; 11-21-2019 at 11:13 PM.
#35
Racer
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1. I would replace the caliper bolts if you got the car used because you never know whether the previous guy who worked on it did it by the book. More likely they used an impact wrench and stretched the bolt excessively.
2. I never bother with brake pad sensors. There are plenty of unobstructed visually to eyeball how much meat on the pad before you need to replace it. I just pulled the old sensors out and shunted the leads, then seal it with epoxy to avoid moisture. This way the brake warning light won't light up on your dash.
3. You can reuse the old brake dampeners. Buy these 3M adhesive sheets from :
https://www.amazon.com/467MP-Clear-A...iglink20410-20
They are the same adhesives on the OEM dampeners. However, you have to clean the old adhesives and they are messy if you use any solvents. I use a heat gun to soften the adhesive residues and then buff it off on a bench grinder. Then all you have to do is cut the 3M sheet to size, stick one side to the dampener, leaving the other wax sheet on and then cut to the round contours of the dampener. Then slot back to the caliper piston. Lastly remove the sheet of wax paper prior to mounting the caliper. One sheet of the 3M will do the entire brake set and cost a few dollars instead of the astronomical price of new dampeners. Believe me, new dampeners have the exact same 3M adhesives attached to them.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=4747
You need 4 per caliper (but different sizes) on the rear. Even a non-OEM Uro dampener cost you $9.75 each......you do the math. The fronts are even more. If you use original Porsche ones will cost you a fortune.
2. I never bother with brake pad sensors. There are plenty of unobstructed visually to eyeball how much meat on the pad before you need to replace it. I just pulled the old sensors out and shunted the leads, then seal it with epoxy to avoid moisture. This way the brake warning light won't light up on your dash.
3. You can reuse the old brake dampeners. Buy these 3M adhesive sheets from :
https://www.amazon.com/467MP-Clear-A...iglink20410-20
They are the same adhesives on the OEM dampeners. However, you have to clean the old adhesives and they are messy if you use any solvents. I use a heat gun to soften the adhesive residues and then buff it off on a bench grinder. Then all you have to do is cut the 3M sheet to size, stick one side to the dampener, leaving the other wax sheet on and then cut to the round contours of the dampener. Then slot back to the caliper piston. Lastly remove the sheet of wax paper prior to mounting the caliper. One sheet of the 3M will do the entire brake set and cost a few dollars instead of the astronomical price of new dampeners. Believe me, new dampeners have the exact same 3M adhesives attached to them.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=4747
You need 4 per caliper (but different sizes) on the rear. Even a non-OEM Uro dampener cost you $9.75 each......you do the math. The fronts are even more. If you use original Porsche ones will cost you a fortune.
#36
Three Wheelin'
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Get the sheets, not the roll. These 5 sheet packs of 12" X 12" will last you a lifetime.
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Adhesive-Transfer-Sheets/dp/B01HP2CEG8/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2/134-2138222-0797624?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01HP2CEG8&pd_rd_r=083e50bb-413b-4cf9-ae37-a4217aa9141b&pd_rd_w=XOO2O&pd_rd_wg=TBC7e&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=XDZA1MP94821HZKP877V&psc=1&refRID=XDZA1MP94821HZKP877V
![https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Adhesive-Transfer-Sheets/dp/B01HP2CEG8/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2/134-2138222-0797624?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01HP2CEG8&pd_rd_r=083e50bb-413b-4cf9-ae37-a4217aa9141b&pd_rd_w=XOO2O&pd_rd_wg=TBC7e&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=XDZA1MP94821HZKP877V&psc=1&refRID=XDZA1MP94821HZKP877V](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/misc/amazon_icon.gif)
#37
Racer
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Henry, do the 991s still have these brake dampers? Just asking cause I noticed your profile pic is a 997 and I had trouble finding replacement damper listed on the Pelican site for the 991.
#38
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Recommendations for brake pads? Something with less brake dust release compared to OEM.
Anybody here using Centric Posi Quiet?
Looking to change OEM pads only because of not wanting to clean brake dust on an every other day basis...
Thanks.
Anybody here using Centric Posi Quiet?
Looking to change OEM pads only because of not wanting to clean brake dust on an every other day basis...
Thanks.
#39
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And the Centrics have been used my many here with good results: Centric Posiquiet: Front Part Number: 104.17410 and Rear Part Number: 104.14170.
#40
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thanks
#41
Three Wheelin'
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Don't know about the 991 whether it has the dampeners. Maybe someone else here can provide that answer.
#42
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the insight guys- appreciate the help. I am a relative newbie when it comes to doing my own maintenance on these cars.
Since I have CL wheels, I have ordered the heavy duty torque wrench/breaker bar set to get the wheels off.
Ordered OEM rotors, pads, sensors, bolts etc, from PorschePartsNow.com (Circle Porsche) as they had decent pricing; for all 4 corners approx $1300
Question: my car is 4 yrs old and has 32K miles; do I need to do anything with the brake fluid/bleed etc at the time of the pad/rotor change?
Since I have CL wheels, I have ordered the heavy duty torque wrench/breaker bar set to get the wheels off.
Ordered OEM rotors, pads, sensors, bolts etc, from PorschePartsNow.com (Circle Porsche) as they had decent pricing; for all 4 corners approx $1300
Question: my car is 4 yrs old and has 32K miles; do I need to do anything with the brake fluid/bleed etc at the time of the pad/rotor change?
#43
Rennlist Member
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Thanks for all the insight guys- appreciate the help. I am a relative newbie when it comes to doing my own maintenance on these cars.
Since I have CL wheels, I have ordered the heavy duty torque wrench/breaker bar set to get the wheels off.
Ordered OEM rotors, pads, sensors, bolts etc, from PorschePartsNow.com (Circle Porsche) as they had decent pricing; for all 4 corners approx $1300
Question: my car is 4 yrs old and has 32K miles; do I need to do anything with the brake fluid/bleed etc at the time of the pad/rotor change?
Since I have CL wheels, I have ordered the heavy duty torque wrench/breaker bar set to get the wheels off.
Ordered OEM rotors, pads, sensors, bolts etc, from PorschePartsNow.com (Circle Porsche) as they had decent pricing; for all 4 corners approx $1300
Question: my car is 4 yrs old and has 32K miles; do I need to do anything with the brake fluid/bleed etc at the time of the pad/rotor change?