mdkrp

Hey guys-
My brakes will need new pads/rotors (standard, not ceramic) coming up soon. Any idea on the approx labor time this should take for a trained Indy mechanic?
Thanks

Wujohn

Did my first replacement at dusk in the parking lot of a track and it took me 1.5 hours max. Brake pad wear sensor was about 1 hour of that time because I didn’t want to break them and I could not see well (far sighted) up close. You should consider doing it yourself-there are DIY’s available. About as easy as you can get if you have a few tools and a jack.

NightBlueTTS

FWIW- I can do all 4 corners with new rotors, new pads, and brake bleed in around 2.5 hours (taking my time). The brake pad sensors can be a PITA when learning how to remove them without breaking, but keep in mind they are easy to replace if something does break (around $60-70 per sensor I think but don’t quote me). good luck, it is a relatively straightforward job

LexVan

Even a trained indy mechanic is not going to charge you for his/her actual time. Probably won't charge you the "book rate" either (like a dealership would). You can only hope for something in between. The per hour rate of the indy should also be lower than a dealerships. Location dependent.

I bought wear sensors in November 2018 from Sunset and they were $33.54/each.

calvinwright11

I have a quote for all new pads and rotors from the dealership from last week. Front - 2.5 hours, $336 labor cost, $1,072 parts. Rear - 2.5 hours, $336 labor cost, $1,010 parts. Dealer said they can ‘work with me’ after I mentioned I found genuine brakes for $750 less than their parts total. Brake bleed is separate and is included in the $2,000 major service I was also quoted.

drcollie

Wow. I need to hang out my shingle in my garage and do brake jobs on Porsches. $ 2,754 before tax and the obligatory shop fees! So around $ 3K out the door. Brake bleed is so easy if you have the wheels off, too. Couple of hours in the garage is all it takes and the parts, which should run around $ 900 aftermarket depending on the rotors used and pads.

Where do you live? You need to get a Porsche buddy who has wrenches and do it in his garage. This is not challenging work for a basic mechanic.

Bob Z.

If it is flat rate about $200 labor for the rear at an Indy shop; however, it cost me $230 ($115 per hour) labor for my Indy to swap Reds for PCCBs. Avoid the dealer at the price you were quoted since there is no advantage using the dealer since a decent Indy shop will warranty their work just as a dealer will.

calvinwright11

I'm in upstate South Carolina. I'm struggling with DIY vs shop / dealership. I come from DDing a 99 Land Rover Discovery and a 2000 Range Rover, which I did all maintenance and repair work on. I'm comfortable with just about any reasonable mechanical job, but I was attempting to move away from that with a newer vehicle, and just shell out for the professionals to deal with it. Now that I'm seeing dealership numbers... I'm second guessing that. My wife doesn't want me to do major work on a vehicle of this caliber, which is reasonable depending on the definition of 'major'. At least I won't be paying the full hour of shop time quoted to replace the frunk and engine cover struts.

LexVan

For all 4 corners, my OE Porsche parts from Sunset (11/2018....black Friday sale) were right about $1,250. That was everything; rotors, pads, sensors, caliper bolts, rotor set-screws, brake fluid, replacement rubber caliper piston boots.

drcollie

Ahh, too bad so far. I'm in Northern VA and would just have you come over on a Sunday, we'd knock it out in my garage.

Just did my wife's Audi SQ5 brakes recently (they are larger rotors than the 991's too).. She wanted to take it to a dealer as well "To be sure its done right". Uh-huh. Let's see, probably some 28-year-old mechanic at the dealer vs 65-year-old guy (me) who has done probably a hundred more brake jobs than that kid at the dealership. OVERRULED when the Audi dealer came back with a $ 2,740 price tag. "But the Audi dealer said you can't to it because of the motorized rear emergency brake thingy that requires their ten thousand dollar computer to back off the pads so you can do the rotors - that's what he told me". OK, we'll see about that, too. Bought all the parts (OEM rotors/ Akebono pads) for $ 910, used a spare 12v motorcycle battery with jumper leads to back off the motorized emergency brake in the rear, and had them done in 2 hours.

So then I said "Now that money I just saved can I go get that new Sony Bravia Master's ULED TV at Best Buy, right? Because I can't build a TV". She said no !! What the...??

Nothing special about a Porsche to work on, basic car stuff they are. You can work on Disco's you can do the Porsche.if you are so inclined.

Bob Z.

Great story and nice thinking about using the motorcycle battery - I guess that is not required on 991s with the electronic brake? It seems one can just release it and all should be well? I think that is what my Indy did.

For what it is worth, I have the 75" Sony Z9D and the picture is fabulous.

drcollie

I haven't had to do the brakes yet on my 991, but a lot of those electric brakes have to be backed off. The Audi is pretty much just like the Porsche system, so I expect they have to be backed off electrically as well. You'll see some hacks on YouTube say you don't need to and they smash them down with a C-Clamp, but they just destroyed the motor inside. Some of the Durametic type units will back them off via the software, but you really don't need anything fancy. There is a two terminal lead to the rear emergency brake motor, just get your 12v battery and put negative on one pin, positive on the other and the motor will run. Going the wrong way? Just swap the leads and back it off. Takes all of ten seconds, Could probably even do it with a small 9v battery too, I should have tried that just to see if it had enough power.

I'll get that Sony TV yet ! I never listen to her anyways....lol

Sidvicious7

Bob’s response is correct. Just disengage the electric brake when replacing/bleeding the rear brakes. Always use a wheel chock for safety if you are working/lift one side of the vehicle. I have found it’s not necessary to utilize an alternate power source to disengage/reverse the rear electrical brake; the process of disengaging your electrical brake is sufficient.

Class5Kayaker

^^THIS^^

I did all four corners, pads and rotors, in my garage in less than two hours and that was taking my time while drinking a few beers. For the rears, all I did was disengage the e-brake and they came off without doing anything special (it was a little more "tight" than removing the fronts, but no hammers were involved).

If you have ever done brakes on any car, you can do the brakes on a modern 911 following one or more of the DIY's in here or on YouTube. I can't believe the rates people are paying the dealer for a simple brake job.

MikeL31

i can do both sides in 30 min. thats definitely not what any shop/dealer will bill/charge though.