In my first time to this rodeo, it took me 1 1/2 hours to change my front brakes, rotors and sensors in addition to bleeding all brakes. this time included breaks for beer and bullsh@t with my buddy who owns the lift

 

For the first brake pad replacement cycle, can't you just replace the pads and keep the rotors, front and back??

 

That's not how you achieve maximum braking performance for a street car. The pads become mated to the rotors. Also depends on your rotor thickness. Rotors, even OE Porsche, are not terribly expensive. My brakes lasted +73,000 miles. I didn't mind replacing everything.

If you are trying to optimize costs, go until the wear sensor trips.

 

The answer is yes, if your rotors are in good shape.

 

Wow, that is impressive. I wouldn't hesitate to do the rotors at that kind of milage. But I'm guessing you don't have PTV?? At 23K miles my rears are getting close to the thickness of the backing plate (991.2 GTS)...

 

If you're only driving on the street, you can go way past the thickness of the backing plate. You've still got 50% of those pads left. Wait until the sensor trips. Or tie the sensors back and just keep an eye on them. 😁

 

I have PTV.

 

Thanks all. I'll hold off on the brake replacement DIY, and just stick with my first brake fluid flush. That'll be plenty.

 

Thanks for the responses everyone.
It sounds like I will do some research on DIY and change them out myself. Any particularly good YouTubes on this?
Surprised that LexVan got 73k miles on his before needing to replace. Mine are only at 32k- maybe because I have done several all day track sessions over the past couple years?

 

I could have gone longer. Never even tripped the wear sensors. I did have a couple torn caliper boots and I now have beautiful painted rotor hats, so I'm glad it's been done early.

No tracking with this one.

 

Are the OEM rotors zinc coated?

 

The OE Porsche hats are primed. OE does not always = OEM. FYI.

 

LOL. Yeah. That could do it! Many people burn up 100% of an OEM pad in a single track day...

 

One important note on doing front/rear brake pad replacement for the 991.1 >> is that the hydraulic line into the caliper is a hard line [metal] so one must be very careful when positioning the caliper to remove the pads. so you don't bend the hardline fitment.

kgl

 

Just got my car back from the dealer for some warranty work and he mentioned I'll be needing pads and rotors soon (3mm all around). I've done many brake jobs in the past so will plan to tackle this myself, but I had a couple of questions.

• Car has 43k miles, will probably have 50k by the time I'm ready to replace. Seems reasonable for rotors? I'll check the condition and thickness.
• You guys go with OEM pads and rotors usually? Suncoast black friday sale coming up!
• Do I need any other parts besides pads/rotors? Saw some posts about replacing the caliper bolts and wear sensors.
• Do I need a scan tool to retract the rear caliper pistons? Sounds like no from the above thread.