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I highly recommend spending the extra money and get the two piece Race Ramps. The longer ramps are harder to store, you can stack the two piece easier, but more importantly it's easier to get under your car using the two piece so you can remove the ramp part for easier access to under your car.
Very handy, but you can't change wheels/tires with ramps.
I highly recommend spending the extra money and get the two piece Race Ramps. The longer ramps are harder to store, you can stack the two piece easier, but more importantly it's easier to get under your car using the two piece so you can remove the ramp part for easier access to under your car.
Ah, the last observation is a great one!
Originally Posted by Need4S
Very handy, but you can't change wheels/tires with ramps.
Yeah, sorry the discussion digression for ramps was a hijack but a nice idea for under-car work that doesn't require removing the wheels. I feel much safer under the car wrestling with an exhaust or whatever when the car isn't on jacks.
I'm totally enjoying the thread you started though since I'd like a better jack too.
Yeah, sorry the discussion digression for ramps was a hijack but a nice idea for under-car work that doesn't require removing the wheels. I feel much safer under the car wrestling with an exhaust or whatever when the car isn't on jacks.
I'm totally enjoying the thread you started though since I'd like a better jack too.
I'm with you. If the wheels don't have to come off to do the job under the car, then I like ramps better, too.
I received my Rennstands last month and got to try them out a couple of weeks ago, they took right on two weeks from ordering to receiving them. Great quality and certainly feel very sturdy.
I was initially only going to use them to prop up either the front or rear of the car but decided to try getting all four wheels up with the help of a couple of cheap Torin stands.
The only issue I had is the top piece of the stand won’t fit under the car when on my low profile jack. I had to lift the rear of the car, put the Torin jack under the front jack point, lower the rear then there was enough height to get the jack and Rennstand under the car.
With one side of the car on stands there was enough clearance on the other side to get the Rennstand straight under.
They are quite tall on the lowest setting and have to jack the car unnervingly high in the air to get the bottom stands inserted but once up super sturdy. I kicked/pushed the chassis and wheels and couldn’t get it to even wiggle.
Overall they worked great and can use them on the other cars as well.
I got the plate with angled corners in the pic and one with ridges for pinch welds.
I used a hockey puck on top of the plate and screwed a speak box foot into the top. It fits perfectly into the hole in the jack point on the car.
I got the plate with angled corners in the pic and one with ridges for pinch welds.
I used a hockey puck on top of the plate and screwed a speak box foot into the top. It fits perfectly into the hole in the jack point on the car.
Don't make the silly mistake I did, thinking that the bigger the better. I got a 3 ton Daytona from HF and although it is of profession quality, it by itself weights a ton.
You better be a contestant of the world's strongest man to be able to maneuvering that jack around. Get an aluminum lightweight from HF and you won't regret it. In fact get 2 of them. You really need 2 jacks to do any work under the car.
Don't make the silly mistake I did, thinking that the bigger the better. I got a 3 ton Daytona from HF and although it is of profession quality, it by itself weights a ton.
You better be a contestant of the world's strongest man to be able to maneuvering that jack around. Get an aluminum lightweight from HF and you won't regret it. In fact get 2 of them. You really need 2 jacks to do any work under the car.
my understanding is that you shouldn’t be doing any work under the car with jacks. You should be using jack stands or a lift.
To clarify, is the hockey puck debate just to provide a smooth surface for the 991 as most jack stands have "ridges", "troughs' or "valleys" ?
I bought the Esco jack stands (below) because of the flat surface that I thought was essential for the 991.
Adding a secondary disk, even with a center pin,to the above jack stand seems like it would reduce the jacking stability and increase the potential for slippage if the car is bumped.
I ask because I have gone to great lengths to protect myself from this kind of accident. Almost every mechanic I know has a horror story.
The Esco jack stands are well built and over engineered. The pad is huge, the stem is solid (not hollow like some) and the footprint is larger than most.
So, in this case with this Esco jack stand, would it be advisable to use additional jacking disks with the center pins that are on the market for 991 mounting points? Thank you in advance.
Three months wait is too long for me. These are the ones I just picked up. $240 shipped for all four. Keep in mind they come in two variants, ESCO 10498 and the shorty 10499. The regular version operates from 13"-21" in height. Whereas the 10499 shorty version's minimum height is 11" and goes up to 17". They both have the 4" rubber pad. For most sports cars including the 911 get the shorty version. It was made specifically for cars like Corvettes and Porsches.
I used Plenum's method of jacking up at the rear jack point first. This actually lifts the entire side of the car including the front so you can place a jack at the front jacking point. Repeat for the other side. Then go to the rear of the car and jack the rear up at the crossmember forward of the oil pan. This will allow you to place both rear jacks at the rear jacking points.
Combining a hockey puck above with the 4" ESCO jack pad is super secure. I don't see how anyone can "bump" a 3200 lbs car off that.
02-03-2018, 09:15 PM
