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That's just another variant of the same PCB like Mr12v
Yes - so it seems. But it does not require a degree in electronic engineering, computer programming, and nuclear physics as most of the people on this thread seem to have in order to get the replacement head units to work properly. I am blown away with the high level of skill and talent most here have. These units do not seem for those with faint of heart! I do have the Mr12Volt unit and I am quite happy with it and the installation was not so bad at all.
Yes - so it seems. But it does not require a degree in electronic engineering, computer programming, and nuclear physics as most of the people on this thread seem to have in order to get the replacement head units to work properly. I am blown away with the high level of skill and talent most here have. These units do not seem for those with faint of heart! I do have the Mr12Volt unit and I am quite happy with it and the installation was not so bad at all.
The Android unit is far easier to install (swap in and out), and it just a lot more flexible, so folks are happy to explore and customize them. It can work out of the box just like Mr12v if you don't want to tinker with it, but do have it's short comings. If u can install a PCB, installing these CHSTEK is a cake walk. If you only need AA/CP and don't mind or happy with the outdated PCM hardware, the PCB/Mr12v should be good enough with a little more effort to install.
I personally hated how stupid the PCM is, so once I realized there are such option, I went with it. No more stupid Radio screaming at me every time I turn on the PCM after I left it in BT mode the last time. The PCM is such a joke.
Hey guys, following the discussion with @bmxtreme a few days ago, I just had a very successful 30 minutes! I managed to enable the secondary bluetooth chip on the Chstek and pair it with my throttle pedal controller app so I can control the throttle settings natively on the HU, rather than having to use my phone.
This should(!) work for other devices that do not pair to the default primary bluetooth chip. I will add the following to the next version of the guide:
Follow the instructions in the guide in the "Setting the boot animation" section to create a backup and copy the 4 files somewhere safe (PC, laptop etc)
Create a copy of config.txt and call it something like config_orig.txt
It doesn't really matter where they go as long as they are in between the rows starting with #. It should look something like this:
Then copy the modified config.txt file and the file from your backup called lsec6315update to a blank FAT 32 formatted USB stick - you should only have these 2 files on the USB stick.
Put the USB stick into the HU (original socket recommended) and the flash process should start and the HU will reboot when finished
You should see a new option in Settings >Device >System Bluetooth Settings which gives you this:
You should now be able to pair your other devices to Bluetooth 2. Here is my RaceChip throttle controller app running in full native mode, having paired the controller box to the Chstek:
I dont use CarPlay or AndroidAuto and have always used the Chstek in full native mode, so I'm always pleased when I can get something else working as a native app!
If u have a battery monitor, and thinkdiag it works too 😀
Assume it would work if you have smart garage door opener
It should work with any BT but I think there is a limit of 2 devices connected at a time, so depends on how many are connected, it might be flaky
Yes - so it seems. But it does not require a degree in electronic engineering, computer programming, and nuclear physics as most of the people on this thread seem to have in order to get the replacement head units to work properly. I am blown away with the high level of skill and talent most here have. These units do not seem for those with faint of heart! I do have the Mr12Volt unit and I am quite happy with it and the installation was not so bad at all.
That is an extreme, hyperbolic mischaracterization* based on selectively pointing to a relatively small number posts out of several thousand. The posts you reference are created by dedicated enthusiasts who want to wring out the last drop of functionality from their units, that's all. Most users simply remove the PCM and replace it, plug and play, with the new Android unit (much as I did with the three I installed). A big benefit of these units is that there is zero chance of trashing the PCM - this is easily possible with the add-on boards (for which professional installation is recommended) and more than one member has damaged their PCM during installation. Also, since the PCM is not opened and modified for the Android unit installation, it can be replaced with 100% confidence and the car returned to OEM, should one wish to sell the car as stock, later. For the majority, installation of the CHSTEK can be completed in less than 30 minutes and, once installed, they can forget about it and just 'use it'. TBH, the CHSTEK looks very OEM in Porsche cars and is the unit that one hopes that Porsche themselves might have installed - to those not 'in the know', they would never realise that the CHSTEK is not a Porsche component IMO.
The add-on boards are not cheaper than the Android units, are considerably more difficult to install, and retain the outdated screen and processor of the PCM. The one benefit they have is that the appearance of the car remains entirely as original, and for some I acknowledge that this is an important factor. But for those who want a more modern unit, with a vastly superior screen, the Android units have much to commend them.
* I do realise that you were being humorous of course
Interesting discovery here, well situation i guess...
I had an iPhone 14 Pro that uses lightning connection. I was using an OEM cable to use wired carplay. However, with lightning it was a 60% success rate. Sometimes i would have to reboot the device for it to actually "authenticate" and use car play.
I got the new iPhone 16 pro, which switched to USB-C, and ordered an ANKER 6ft cable to route out behind the glove box, through the center console, and out the arm rest. It has a 100% connection rate. Not sure why, its probably just USB-C superiority (yes.. i know android folk have had it since the dawn of time)
So I spoke to another user with my same car, 2014 Boxter S with Bose and he has the Erisin unit. He is sure that all speakers in the car produce sound. If I am reading correctly, users with the CHSTEK unit report not having sound in the rear speakers. Can anyone check me to make sure I am understanding correctly that the CHSTEK unit does not provide sound from the rear speakers?
So I spoke to another user with my same car, 2014 Boxter S with Bose and he has the Erisin unit. He is sure that all speakers in the car produce sound. If I am reading correctly, users with the CHSTEK unit report not having sound in the rear speakers. Can anyone check me to make sure I am understanding correctly that the CHSTEK unit does not provide sound from the rear speakers?
TIA,
Brad
I think some CHSTEK users have sound from all speakers, including someone who recently installed it in their boxster. Those like me, the rear sound is faint, which I suspect has something to do with the PCM setting prior to removal, I am guessing the Bose surround option needs to be disabled (I've heard this is preferable). Since the sound quality was way better than before, it didn't bother me, plus I had my fader set to the front previously which might also be the problem. Maybe someday, I'll try to swap back the PCM and try things out but there's no motivation to get the rear sound.
Also here is the decoder for Erisin and looks like it's the same as what we get from CHSTEK, but in blue?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msAyd4M
Interesting discovery here, well situation i guess...
I had an iPhone 14 Pro that uses lightning connection. I was using an OEM cable to use wired carplay. However, with lightning it was a 60% success rate. Sometimes i would have to reboot the device for it to actually "authenticate" and use car play.
I got the new iPhone 16 pro, which switched to USB-C, and ordered an ANKER 6ft cable to route out behind the glove box, through the center console, and out the arm rest. It has a 100% connection rate. Not sure why, its probably just USB-C superiority (yes.. i know android folk have had it since the dawn of time)
Either way, Stoked
It's possible that your lightning phone port has worn off assuming you have been plugging/unplugging alot.
It's possible that your lightning phone port has worn off assuming you have been plugging/unplugging alot.
So with my lightning specifically, it would "authenticate" then fail. Its possible but any cord i tried, along with cleaning the port on my phone would give the same result.
09-28-2024, 11:06 AM
