Hank Cohn

@ZedZed , thanks for your answers! I’ve now read through the manual in @andy2111 ’s signature—appreciate you pointing that out. It seems like I’m at a similar crossroads as you once were, deciding between PCM modification and other options. I’m not too concerned about the minor surgery on the PCM, as I’ve done that kind of work plenty of times. Sounds like we have similar IT backgrounds—I’ve got a box full of old PC, laptop, and phone parts too!

Since price isn’t a major concern, I think I’ll go ahead and pick up a Chstek to see how it works out. It seems like an easier and more cost-effective route to try first.

Thank you agin,
Hank

mac_flyer9

I just applied the bright fix. I was in the car for 20 mins after applying it with the unit constantly restarting.....I was thinking "damn, i bricked it" Turns out, I needed a full restart. So I pulled the PCM fuse and the cold restart fixed it. I'll report back on the illumination when I get a chance to see it. I'll also comment when I get the new Sport Chrono gauge and new TPMS sensors. Appreciate the help. Thank you

ZedZed

I may be able to shed some light on this, having fitted a chrono clock to a Porsche that did not have one as OEM. First, the time on the chrono clock takes its time from the time displayed in the dash display to the right of the cluster. It has no relationship to the PCM. When I installed the chrono clock, as soon as I hooked up the clock wires, it synched with the dash clock. You can prove this by removing the PCM entirely and observing that the clock in the instrument cluster still operates as normal. The clock in the cluster takes its signal from one small wire in the loom inside the multi-stalk unit mounted to the clockspring/steering column. So even if you have no PCM at all, let alone a CHSTEK replacement for it, the times on the chrono clock and the dash clock should be the same. That they are not in your car suggests an issue with the chrono clock, or maybe not, but it won't be down to the removal of the PCM. Also, of course, the chrono itself is not dependent on the original PCM - again this is evident from the fact that the chrono function still works after the PCM has been removed/replaced.

Again, the PCM doesn't control or impact the TPMS. TPMS settings are done from the multifunctional display (MFD) and, again, the TPMS will function correctly even if the PCM is physically absent. The problem you are experiencing is likely to be either the TPMS sensors themselves (inside the wheels) have failed and/or their batteries have died, or the TPMS control unit itself has failed. This (in my car) was located in one of the rear wheel arches. It is easy to fit a new control unit (two bolts and a wire connector) but the bad news is that the unit then has to be coded to the car by Porsche (or someone with a PIWIS). Swapping the in-wheel sensors is easy enough (although the tyres need to be removed and refitted), but again it is likely that the new sensors may need coding to the car. I am not 100% certain about the last sentence, and it may only be the control unit itself that needs coding.

You may decide that the OEM TPMS is an expensive waste of money, and just install the in-wheel TPMS sensors and USB control box made by Erisin. This will save you a ton of money (no need for PIWIS coding) and also, IMO, the display and functionality of the Erisin TPMS sensors is superior to the OEM Porsche version. Andy @andy2111 (and my wife in her Cayman) run the Erisin TPMS, albeit with the external sensors mounted on the tyre valves, and both of us hold them in high regard. When the time comes to change the tyres on the Cayman, I will be installing the in-wheel Erisin sensors. They work exactly the same way but are obviously a more elegant solution than the external sensors.

Caveat - the info regarding the chrono clock is my experience on my former Panamera, and YMMV on a 911, Cayman, or any other model of Porsche.

Very nice too. Love the color of the car as well.

[/QUOTE]

ZedZed

@mac_flyer9

Is your chrono clock the version with the small analog clock inset into the dial (as opposed to a digital clock)? If so, it is possible that the hands have 'slipped' - they are notorious for actually falling off.
Andy's suggestion is a good one.- go into the MFD and set the time to a random time. The chrono clock should mimic this. If it approximates it, is the difference the same as it was when the dash time was correct? I mean, if it was 2 minutes different before, is it still 2 minutes different now, or something else entirely?

mac_flyer9

The clock has the digital time and small clock underneath it. It displays a different time every time I either program it or I turn on the GPS time and don't think the hands have slipped.
I'm pretty sure its a bad Sport Chrono clock and dead TPMS sensors, as the previous set of wheels/tires read just fine on the MFD.

Thanks for all the information/advice/troubleshooting ideas as they are concise and helpful.

bmxtreme

Can confirm TPMS doesn't need PCM. I swap out my wheels recently and also replace all 4 TPMS and the car registers it. The TPMS control module is a separate box mounted under the car. Love the techno wheels btw.

B1web1

I don’t suppose such a guide exists for the Erisin unit?

andy2111

There should be another document in the same location which was written largely for the Erisin. It has not been updated in a while but a few of us here can try to help with any questions

Natural1

How did you get the CHSTEK unit to connect to your R4? I use an R4 with Highway Radar as well. My primary hangup on going with one of these head units is that it seemed unlikely to allow for secondary (non-phone) bluetooth connections. Did you have any issues like that?

bmxtreme

Yeah, out of box the secondary BT is disabled. There are 2 BT chips and you'll need to enable it by flashing the config file. Once enabled, I seem to be able to connect anything to it. First you need to extract your config file (this can be done using the backup process in the manual). And then just add this line to the config.txt file:
To flash the config file, your USB should just contains these files:

lsec6315update
config.txt

Plug it into the USB port and flash away. You can then see a new setting in the "Device" menu call "System Bluetooth" when you press the "All" button.

More info here:
https://xdaforums.com/t/general-fyt-...mware.4396339/
​​​​​Just be careful trying to do anything that was said in that forum, alot of them are garbage untested or outdated info which may or may not work. Proceed with caution.

Since it's annoying to keep my phone plugged in for USB tethering, I've since just use my phone with highway radar in the background - voice notification sounds fine with AndroidAuto. I used Macrodroid/Tasker to start it when its connected.
​​​​

Natural1

Great info, thanks!

Question: Why USB tethering vs using your phone's wifi hotspot? I use an app called "Auto Hotspot" that will automatically enable the hotspot based on a trigger. As soon as my phone connects to the car via bluetooth, the hotspot enables. Once that bluetooth connection is dropped, it turns off the hotspot. Worth trying if you want to use the head unit in native mode and don't want to deal with plugging in your phone. You could probably do the same with macrodriod or tasker.

bmxtreme

I always run AndroidAuto. So when AA is enabled, the head unit will disable its Wi-Fi and turns on the internal hotspot for AndroidAuto. So sharing hotspot does not work for me. So I am only left with USB tethering.or BT tethering. I haven't try wired AA to see if it also shares my internet. Maybe someday when we can get a USB wifi adapter to work, we can then hotspot while in AA

If you don't use AA/CP, then mobile hotspot is ideal, and this would be your perfect setup.

ZedZed

They are very similar so most of what applies to the CHSTEK will apply to the Erisin too, especially with regard to installation etc. As Andy points out, we started the Guide with the Erisin, and then most guys switched over to the CHSTEK, mainly for aesthetic reasons, eg a bigger screen and physical buttons. The early Guide for the Erisin is in the download folder linked in Andy's sig.

I am one of the few running an Erisin still (in my wife's Cayman) so if you have any specific Erisin questions I am happy to do my best to help.

andy2111

I have been meaning to try this for ages so I can run my throttle pedal Android app direct on the HU instead of on my phone.

There is more info here where a guy got some help getting it working in his Macan: Question - Android Newb Identifying board type and looking to B/U (DAINAV unit) | XDA Forums

Also note there are some settings mentioned to adjust the mic and BT speaker which may interest some of the people who have wanted to adjust these

persist.audio.mic.senstivity=3
persist.btmic.gain=9
persist.btspk.gain=7

Anyway, back to setting up the secondary Bluetooth connection - here is the config I am going to try, based on the post I linked to above:



I added the items in yellow.

My 'sys.fyt.bluetooth_type=' originally had nothing at the end, so I just added the 1

@bmxtreme did you add the last 3 lines? The explanation is in the post above.

I'll try this at the weekend and report back.

bmxtreme

@andy2111 i initially added the other 3 lines for the BT, but I don't think it's needed, but no harm adding. I think a2dp is enabled by default, you can turn on OBD from the factory menu and the BT name you can change it in the UI.
The mic settings - I didn't try since there are reports where it made it sound like crap, so if no problem, don't fix it