Just got a 991.1 S....Comparing it my F80 M3
10-19-2017, 11:11 AM
#61
I'll post it here just in case anyone else reading this has the same questions.
First and cheapest thing I would do it simply switching the switch console box (box with all of the buttons) with one that has the PSE button. You can't just add the button, it would require the whole assembly. One you have it installed, you can take it to a dealer or an indy to program the PSE functionality. The dealers wanted to charge me $250, the indy I took it to, RAC Performance in Dallas, charged me $70. If the have a Porsche computer, they should be able to do it. Here is the link to swap out the box: http://plenums.blogspot.com/2014/12/...r-console.html
Then after this, you are still not satisfied you can scroll through this forum and read the tens of thousands of posts where people discuss each exhaust option and decide which you want to get. If you go with the PSE muffler, the part should cost you around $800-$950. Here is a post I did a little while back on my experiences with different exhausts: https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1027...ally-over.html
Regardless of the exhaust you choose, the install is the exact same if you still with just the center muffler. Here are the best instructions on removing the bumper and installing the exhaust: https://rennlist.com/forums/991/9295...all-gts-2.html
Yours will be different when it comes to the vacuum lines since the car in that link is a PSE car, BUT that doesn't matter, just run your vacuum lines to the valves and avoid having them touch the muffler. Some companies include extra vacuum hoses, others don't. If your car is an S car, you do not need to change anything with the vacuum hoses for the PSE button to work, you only need to connect the car's vacuum lines to the valves. Regardless of how the lines are routed, as long the the line doesn't have any leaks, everything will work.
Here is the kicker, if you truly have no tools, then you probably haven't done many mechanical things and it might take you a lot longer. IMO, if you can put together any furniture, you can do this exhaust swap. But, assuming you actually don't have any tools, this might be a bit more difficult. Every bolt and screw I have taken on/off this car can be done with some torx bits and metric sockets. I don't want to be the guy that told you it was easy and then have you be mad because it wasn't as easy.
If you need some inspiration: I bought a 1987 3/4 ton dodge truck this summer. I knew it would be a project but I was told by a few people that they would lend a hand. The truck ran for approx. 1 week before it completely died on me. All the help I was expecting to get had schedules to work around so I decided to buy the tools and do it myself. Before this, I had never done an oil change. I would say I am mechanically inclined but was completely green to working on anything mechanical on a vehicle at that point. Anyways, the swap is complete and truck is now at the shop to have everything tested and buttoned up. I finished the swap about 2 months ago but I didn't have any time to get it towed to the shop until this week. I went from never doing an oil change to a full engine swap and A/C retrofit in the course of a month and a half (working on it 1.5 hrs after work and some weekends). So, if you feel as though you are somewhat mechanically inclined then don't let inexperience hinder your progression.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
First and cheapest thing I would do it simply switching the switch console box (box with all of the buttons) with one that has the PSE button. You can't just add the button, it would require the whole assembly. One you have it installed, you can take it to a dealer or an indy to program the PSE functionality. The dealers wanted to charge me $250, the indy I took it to, RAC Performance in Dallas, charged me $70. If the have a Porsche computer, they should be able to do it. Here is the link to swap out the box: http://plenums.blogspot.com/2014/12/...r-console.html
Then after this, you are still not satisfied you can scroll through this forum and read the tens of thousands of posts where people discuss each exhaust option and decide which you want to get. If you go with the PSE muffler, the part should cost you around $800-$950. Here is a post I did a little while back on my experiences with different exhausts: https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1027...ally-over.html
Regardless of the exhaust you choose, the install is the exact same if you still with just the center muffler. Here are the best instructions on removing the bumper and installing the exhaust: https://rennlist.com/forums/991/9295...all-gts-2.html
Yours will be different when it comes to the vacuum lines since the car in that link is a PSE car, BUT that doesn't matter, just run your vacuum lines to the valves and avoid having them touch the muffler. Some companies include extra vacuum hoses, others don't. If your car is an S car, you do not need to change anything with the vacuum hoses for the PSE button to work, you only need to connect the car's vacuum lines to the valves. Regardless of how the lines are routed, as long the the line doesn't have any leaks, everything will work.
Here is the kicker, if you truly have no tools, then you probably haven't done many mechanical things and it might take you a lot longer. IMO, if you can put together any furniture, you can do this exhaust swap. But, assuming you actually don't have any tools, this might be a bit more difficult. Every bolt and screw I have taken on/off this car can be done with some torx bits and metric sockets. I don't want to be the guy that told you it was easy and then have you be mad because it wasn't as easy.
If you need some inspiration: I bought a 1987 3/4 ton dodge truck this summer. I knew it would be a project but I was told by a few people that they would lend a hand. The truck ran for approx. 1 week before it completely died on me. All the help I was expecting to get had schedules to work around so I decided to buy the tools and do it myself. Before this, I had never done an oil change. I would say I am mechanically inclined but was completely green to working on anything mechanical on a vehicle at that point. Anyways, the swap is complete and truck is now at the shop to have everything tested and buttoned up. I finished the swap about 2 months ago but I didn't have any time to get it towed to the shop until this week. I went from never doing an oil change to a full engine swap and A/C retrofit in the course of a month and a half (working on it 1.5 hrs after work and some weekends). So, if you feel as though you are somewhat mechanically inclined then don't let inexperience hinder your progression.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
). This should be a 991 DIY post for sure. Lots of misinformation on adding PSE to non-PSE cars.
10-20-2017, 01:50 AM
#62
Rennlist Member
Question for the OP, did you test drive the car before you bought it? I came from an F10 M5, a fast and smooth rocket, to a 2018 991.2 with SPASM. It’s a different car and the M3 is more like an M5 just smaller. I feel a lot more connected in the 991 but the M5 gives you a different sense of security that you may consider as “planted” given that it’s larger. You may feel a little thrown around and bouncy, but I guarantee you that the 991 has higher limits and capability than your M3. BMW is good at going fast and being comfortable. Going from a sports luxury car to a true sports car requires a bit of getting used to.
Don't get me wrong enjoyed my 24+ mos with the car but admit the 991 never gave me any of that and in effect I always felt more comfortable at speed and at the limit than in the M3. Only car that I think felt better handling and performance wise was my '14 981 Cayman S! Now that may be Porsche's best sports car for the $$ paid/spent. Enjoy your 911. Congrats!
10-20-2017, 01:57 AM
#63
Track Day
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I'll post it here just in case anyone else reading this has the same questions.
First and cheapest thing I would do it simply switching the switch console box (box with all of the buttons) with one that has the PSE button. You can't just add the button, it would require the whole assembly. One you have it installed, you can take it to a dealer or an indy to program the PSE functionality. The dealers wanted to charge me $250, the indy I took it to, RAC Performance in Dallas, charged me $70. If the have a Porsche computer, they should be able to do it. Here is the link to swap out the box: http://plenums.blogspot.com/2014/12/...r-console.html
Then after this, you are still not satisfied you can scroll through this forum and read the tens of thousands of posts where people discuss each exhaust option and decide which you want to get. If you go with the PSE muffler, the part should cost you around $800-$950. Here is a post I did a little while back on my experiences with different exhausts: https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1027...ally-over.html
Regardless of the exhaust you choose, the install is the exact same if you still with just the center muffler. Here are the best instructions on removing the bumper and installing the exhaust: https://rennlist.com/forums/991/9295...all-gts-2.html
Yours will be different when it comes to the vacuum lines since the car in that link is a PSE car, BUT that doesn't matter, just run your vacuum lines to the valves and avoid having them touch the muffler. Some companies include extra vacuum hoses, others don't. If your car is an S car, you do not need to change anything with the vacuum hoses for the PSE button to work, you only need to connect the car's vacuum lines to the valves. Regardless of how the lines are routed, as long the the line doesn't have any leaks, everything will work.
Here is the kicker, if you truly have no tools, then you probably haven't done many mechanical things and it might take you a lot longer. IMO, if you can put together any furniture, you can do this exhaust swap. But, assuming you actually don't have any tools, this might be a bit more difficult. Every bolt and screw I have taken on/off this car can be done with some torx bits and metric sockets. I don't want to be the guy that told you it was easy and then have you be mad because it wasn't as easy.
If you need some inspiration: I bought a 1987 3/4 ton dodge truck this summer. I knew it would be a project but I was told by a few people that they would lend a hand. The truck ran for approx. 1 week before it completely died on me. All the help I was expecting to get had schedules to work around so I decided to buy the tools and do it myself. Before this, I had never done an oil change. I would say I am mechanically inclined but was completely green to working on anything mechanical on a vehicle at that point. Anyways, the swap is complete and truck is now at the shop to have everything tested and buttoned up. I finished the swap about 2 months ago but I didn't have any time to get it towed to the shop until this week. I went from never doing an oil change to a full engine swap and A/C retrofit in the course of a month and a half (working on it 1.5 hrs after work and some weekends). So, if you feel as though you are somewhat mechanically inclined then don't let inexperience hinder your progression.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
First and cheapest thing I would do it simply switching the switch console box (box with all of the buttons) with one that has the PSE button. You can't just add the button, it would require the whole assembly. One you have it installed, you can take it to a dealer or an indy to program the PSE functionality. The dealers wanted to charge me $250, the indy I took it to, RAC Performance in Dallas, charged me $70. If the have a Porsche computer, they should be able to do it. Here is the link to swap out the box: http://plenums.blogspot.com/2014/12/...r-console.html
Then after this, you are still not satisfied you can scroll through this forum and read the tens of thousands of posts where people discuss each exhaust option and decide which you want to get. If you go with the PSE muffler, the part should cost you around $800-$950. Here is a post I did a little while back on my experiences with different exhausts: https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1027...ally-over.html
Regardless of the exhaust you choose, the install is the exact same if you still with just the center muffler. Here are the best instructions on removing the bumper and installing the exhaust: https://rennlist.com/forums/991/9295...all-gts-2.html
Yours will be different when it comes to the vacuum lines since the car in that link is a PSE car, BUT that doesn't matter, just run your vacuum lines to the valves and avoid having them touch the muffler. Some companies include extra vacuum hoses, others don't. If your car is an S car, you do not need to change anything with the vacuum hoses for the PSE button to work, you only need to connect the car's vacuum lines to the valves. Regardless of how the lines are routed, as long the the line doesn't have any leaks, everything will work.
Here is the kicker, if you truly have no tools, then you probably haven't done many mechanical things and it might take you a lot longer. IMO, if you can put together any furniture, you can do this exhaust swap. But, assuming you actually don't have any tools, this might be a bit more difficult. Every bolt and screw I have taken on/off this car can be done with some torx bits and metric sockets. I don't want to be the guy that told you it was easy and then have you be mad because it wasn't as easy.
If you need some inspiration: I bought a 1987 3/4 ton dodge truck this summer. I knew it would be a project but I was told by a few people that they would lend a hand. The truck ran for approx. 1 week before it completely died on me. All the help I was expecting to get had schedules to work around so I decided to buy the tools and do it myself. Before this, I had never done an oil change. I would say I am mechanically inclined but was completely green to working on anything mechanical on a vehicle at that point. Anyways, the swap is complete and truck is now at the shop to have everything tested and buttoned up. I finished the swap about 2 months ago but I didn't have any time to get it towed to the shop until this week. I went from never doing an oil change to a full engine swap and A/C retrofit in the course of a month and a half (working on it 1.5 hrs after work and some weekends). So, if you feel as though you are somewhat mechanically inclined then don't let inexperience hinder your progression.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
10-21-2017, 08:50 AM
#64
Instructor
and I came from BMW as well and I actually noticed that the 2 wheel drive was more bouncy than the 4 wheel drive. Not a lot but enough for me to notice. Test drive a 4
I also imagine that if you keep the Gas tank full,and add some weight in the Frunk, it will help minimize
the bounce... like everything else, you learn to live with it, then come to love it...
10-21-2017, 02:27 PM
#65
Track Day
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brought to America’s tire. They said my rear driver side wheel is bent. Showed me while rotating it. Do you guys know if this is covered by CPO?
10-23-2017, 11:10 AM
#66
10-23-2017, 11:51 AM
#67
It may not be covered but if the dealer sold it to you that way then you can certainly ask them to make it right. From what I recall, the wheels should be balanced and true before it could be sold as a CPO. Depending on how many miles you've put on it, if you weren't the one to damage the wheel there is certainly a case to be made with the dealer.
