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For my config I'm at following in degrees, everything has tradeoffs, but this is target optimal for me:
Caster - upper 8s, higher caster is better to increase hi speed stability and decrease tramlining on worn roads.
Toe front - 0
Toe rear - .2 per side, .4 total
Camber - 3 front, 2.5 rear. Going to go for more in both these next time.
Model 991.2 2018 Turbo S Coupe: I wore the original OEM Michelin Pilot Sport 4S outside fronts down to the cords after 4 1/2 track days and 4500 miles. About 3/4 of the width on the inside of the tire had about 1/8 to 3/16in depth of tread left. I try to shoot for about 32 psi front and 36 psi rear about 1/2 way through a 20 minute track session. I have measured tire temp after coming in, (thermocouple contact method) and there was only 1-2 deg difference across the tires. The rears I replaced at 5000 miles when the outside tread stared looking worn (no cord showing).
After the tire replacement I had an alignment done and I can only get 1.2 degrees of negative camber on the fronts (up rom 0.9 deg as delivered) maxing out the stock strut hat adjustment slots.I was told I need to get 2.5 to 3 degrees to make a significant difference in the contact patch and wear. There are a least two obvious ways to do it. Porsche makes an adjustable lower control arm for the GT cars that can be installed. A driving instructor at a PCA track event recommended I use camberplates instead that would also eliminate the rubber defection at the top of the struts when cornering. I see where that would be helpful, but I would like to keep the mods stealthy, and also not compromise the ride quality too much.
Please comment about pluses and minuses for each solution? Thanks.
Model 991.2 2018 Turbo S Coupe: I wore the original OEM Michelin Pilot Sport 4S outside fronts down to the cords after 4 1/2 track days and 4500 miles. About 3/4 of the width on the inside of the tire had about 1/8 to 3/16in depth of tread left. I try to shoot for about 32 psi front and 36 psi rear about 1/2 way through a 20 minute track session. I have measured tire temp after coming in, (thermocouple contact method) and there was only 1-2 deg difference across the tires. The rears I replaced at 5000 miles when the outside tread stared looking worn (no cord showing).
After the tire replacement I had an alignment done and I can only get 1.2 degrees of negative camber on the fronts (up rom 0.9 deg as delivered) maxing out the stock strut hat adjustment slots.I was told I need to get 2.5 to 3 degrees to make a significant difference in the contact patch and wear. There are a least two obvious ways to do it. Porsche makes an adjustable lower control arm for the GT cars that can be installed. A driving instructor at a PCA track event recommended I use camberplates instead that would also eliminate the rubber defection at the top of the struts when cornering. I see where that would be helpful, but I would like to keep the mods stealthy, and also not compromise the ride quality too much.
Please comment about pluses and minuses for each solution? Thanks.
Camber plates on an AWD car can be dicey, but possible. I suggest you take the car to a race shop that specializes in Porsches, and maybe talk to Elephant Racing about suggestions for lower control arms vs camber plates vs monoball bushings. I don't know why you can't get more than -1.3 in the front, but it could be that your tuner does not know enough about the TTS vs GT cars. Also, 4500 miles out of a set of tires is actually pretty normal for this car, but try out Cup2 tires also.
Stopped by OG Racing this morning and bought some new head gear for my brother and I. Haven’t been on track since 2006 in my old M3. Gonna start with a few PCA autox to learn how the TT takes brake/throttle/steering inputs and transfers weight. Maybe I’ll see a few of you on track in the future
Anyone with experience tracking the TT, have you been able to dial out the under steer? How does it perform at the track?
Background for the question is last year I was in the market for a TTS or GT3 and visited Porsche experience in Atlanta for the comparison. After 90 minutes of thrashing each car around their "smallish" track and skid pad I was left with the impression that the turbo was fast but under steered and I could rotate the GT3 easier. Rightly or wrongly, I attributed that to the turbo's extra weight and AWD and figured it was inherent in the design. The instructor at Porsche Experience concurred, so I bought the GT3. I love the GT3. The car has great balance out of the box and has proven to be an excellent track partner. However in the never ending search for more speed I am considering upgrading the GT3 for faster lap times. This opens the door to other options. I've had and loved turbos and know my friend's TTS is faster in a straight line than my car, so I got to thinking about the new Turbo, could some tuning dial out that factory induced under steer and make it a fun track car? I only use the car to drive to and from the track and do DE events so that is the priority versus DD duty.
Cup2 tires (265f/325r) and slow in/fast out. The TTS will destroy a GT3 on track with that. Extra cheat - install a TPC Racing DSC-V3 active suspension controller.
Cup2 tires (265f/325r) and slow in/fast out. The TTS will destroy a GT3 on track with that. Extra cheat - install a TPC Racing DSC-V3 active suspension controller.
curious to know how would your track equipped TTS does compared to your GT2RS on the track?
If you want to dial out understeer just do 265s in front and better allignment, these cars are set-up from the factory to understeer as a safety measure
My TTS runs same times as 2 different GT2RS on 2 different tracks so far
1st track I was on Cup2 265N2/325M0 and the gt2rs on trofeo R (gt2rs was like 0.3-0.4s faster on a 1:47s lap time), driver level gt2rs: enthusiast, time attack events and track days. My guess gt2rs could have been 1-1.5s faster, but mainly due to better tires as he ran wide TrofeoR 265/325 on really wide rims and R21 rears (more contact with the track)
2nd track I was on R7s 265/335 and gt2rs on new Cup2R, I did 1:24.5 and gt2rs 0.1s more, driver level for gt2rs: professional trainer, ex racing driver - this was the final result after 2days racing event.
My TTS has a tune, cats off, ICs, BMC filter, springs, DSC controller, alignment and front LCAs and of course better and wider tires
Also my times on narrow 245/305 TrofeoR were the same with wider Cup2 265/325. From the two, I would pick the Cup2 as there isnt a wider TrofeoR setup available for our cars, for best lap times, I would use R7s
If you want to dial out understeer just do 265s in front and better allignment, these cars are set-up from the factory to understeer as a safety measure
My TTS runs same times as 2 different GT2RS on 2 different tracks so far
1st track I was on Cup2 265N2/325M0 and the gt2rs on trofeo R (gt2rs was like 0.3-0.4s faster on a 1:47s lap time), driver level gt2rs: enthusiast, time attack events and track days. My guess gt2rs could have been 1-1.5s faster, but mainly due to better tires as he ran wide TrofeoR 265/325 on really wide rims and R21 rears (more contact with the track)
2nd track I was on R7s 265/335 and gt2rs on new Cup2R, I did 1:24.5 and gt2rs 0.1s more, driver level for gt2rs: professional trainer, ex racing driver - this was the final result after 2days racing event.
My TTS has a tune, cats off, ICs, BMC filter, springs, DSC controller, alignment and front LCAs and of course better and wider tires
Also my times on narrow 245/305 TrofeoR were the same with wider Cup2 265/325. From the two, I would pick the Cup2 as there isnt a wider TrofeoR setup available for our cars, for best lap times, I would use R7s
wow, that is a real eye opener, the gt2rs is a factory track focused turbo, so for a TTS with bolt on mods to keep pace says a lot about these cars, and your driving ability
05-31-2018, 06:28 PM
