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No, not only have I lost 70lbs since then, I had a helper hold the brake pedal - I can easily move the car with that wrench....
Great job on the weight! No, I'm saying that you cannot under any circumstances tighten the wheels while the car is touching the ground. It must be lifted up off the ground before you tighten or loosen the wheels. Also, check out the RennTorque!
What is the difference between lifting the car and having someone holding the brake pedal down ...?
As I mentioned, I discovered I could move the car the first time I changed the wheels - since then, always a second person to hold as I brake, then torque, while on the ground..
I now expect you to tell me I have done something horrible to the car.
Discussed many times elsewhere, but a reversible speed clamp does a great job of holding the brake pedal down and avoids having to get the wife down to the garage to step on the brakes....
But yes, centerlocks are evidently meant to be torqued without weight on the wheels, though i doubt it really causes much of a problem as long as they are at least fairly tight before lowering.
Discussed many times elsewhere, but a reversible speed clamp does a great job of holding the brake pedal down and avoids having to get the wife down to the garage to step on the brakes....
But yes, centerlocks are evidently meant to be torqued without weight on the wheels.
I love it - my god that is an elegant solution, I cannot believe I never thought that of it!
As long, of course, Randy does not tell me I am going to burn for doing this work on the ground....
I love it - my god that is an elegant solution, I cannot believe I never thought that of it!
As long, of course, Randy does not tell me I am going to burn for doing this work on the ground....
Fantastic news!! You are not going to burn! No, I'm not trying to judge, I'm trying to explain that centerlock wheels by their very nature must be tightened and untightened without weight on them because the contact surfaces are curved, not flat. Remember, those "nubs" that stick out from the rotor are just plastic with tiny aluminum screws, not metal like a lug nut, and they cannot handle any weight at all if the wheel is loosened up. It's a total pain to have to lift the car to do it, but it's the only way. I'm sorry if I came across as preachy. Honestly just trying to help.
Fantastic news!! You are not going to burn! No, I'm not trying to judge, I'm trying to explain that centerlock wheels by their very nature must be tightened and untightened without weight on them because the contact surfaces are curved, not flat. Remember, those "nubs" that stick out from the rotor are just plastic with tiny aluminum screws, not metal like a lug nut, and they cannot handle any weight at all if the wheel is loosened up. It's a total pain to have to lift the car to do it, but it's the only way. I'm sorry if I came across as preachy. Honestly just t
rying to help.
If there is anyone who can preach to me, it most certainly would be you, so all good.
So my exact procedure is the break the nut with someone holding the brake, lift the car, unwind the nut by hand, put my Suncoast wheel guide on, remove the wheel, swap the wheel, re mount, tighten cl by hand, apply a little torque with the torque wrench, drop the car, hold the brake and torque to spec.
After, the car is driven around the shop, about a half mile, then brought back in and retorqued to spec.
I also use anti seize in both the nut and the threads ...
Since the car has been in the garage, I have done this exactly five times, and am expecting to do the sixth shortly. The wheels were re and re'd one other time when the springs were swapped out.
Fantastic news!! You are not going to burn! No, I'm not trying to judge, I'm trying to explain that centerlock wheels by their very nature must be tightened and untightened without weight on them because the contact surfaces are curved, not flat. Remember, those "nubs" that stick out from the rotor are just plastic with tiny aluminum screws, not metal like a lug nut, and they cannot handle any weight at all if the wheel is loosened up. It's a total pain to have to lift the car to do it, but it's the only way. I'm sorry if I came across as preachy. Honestly just trying to help.
Just looking at this a little closer - I appreciate the plastic nubs have no lateral strength, but the wheels are hub centric are they not? So, wouldn't the weight be loaded onto the hub first?
Drove it to my shop today and got my '73 bahia red 914 running after a transaxle rebuild and some engine work... temps finally cooling down a little here in the valley of the sun (and HEAT) so the AC'ed cars can come back to play...
10-16-2020, 12:07 AM
