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I had a couple of glitches with the antigravity i had. It mainly happened after I had not driven or started the car for a few weeks. Each time the issue happened was that it would start but then it would start acting up. We attributed this to low voltage. The odd thing was after i got the hood opened, the battery showed as it was charged. Went back and he car turned on again.
So when we finished our first build, and we started coding things out, the same issues would happen but this time we would loose all of the work we had done. They work great specially if you drive the car consistently or are able to keep it charged. Since my car spends a lot of time at the shop this wasn't really practice so we decided to take the battery out and use a larger battery. On the new build we are moving the battery to the driver's side foot box similar to a Cup Car.
What battery model are you talking about... meaning was it the latest ones with Wireless Keyfob? Was it the older one? How many Amp hours? What were the issues that were happening?
I would just like to understand better so we can understand more about your situation. We don't get a lot of issues or hear about this much. But if you are bouncing off the 'over-discharge" status after just a few weeks ether the battery is too small in Amp HOurs for the draw you have on the Car, or perhaps the Car has a higher parasitic drain on the Battery. Also what were the issues you were having when running the battery?
Also to any looking at Lithium, If you are doing a lot of coding or have higher parasitic draws on the vehicle go up in Amp Hours, and if you do coding get a Charger specifically for Coding.... they put out enough Current to support the very high draw that occurs during coding, they usually have like 25 to 40 Amps flowing and this is important because if you run out of energy when coding you can damage some things potentially, and even full 80Ah Lead Acid Batteries often can't handle full coding session.
Anyway we are here to assist and if you ever have any issue with our battery let us know. As I said we don't hear a lot of stuff but always want to be in the loop and look at what might be up if there is any issues.
What battery model are you talking about... meaning was it the latest ones with Wireless Keyfob? Was it the older one? How many Amp hours? What were the issues that were happening?
I would just like to understand better so we can understand more about your situation. We don't get a lot of issues or hear about this much. But if you are bouncing off the 'over-discharge" status after just a few weeks ether the battery is too small in Amp HOurs for the draw you have on the Car, or perhaps the Car has a higher parasitic drain on the Battery. Also what were the issues you were having when running the battery?
Also to any looking at Lithium, If you are doing a lot of coding or have higher parasitic draws on the vehicle go up in Amp Hours, and if you do coding get a Charger specifically for Coding.... they put out enough Current to support the very high draw that occurs during coding, they usually have like 25 to 40 Amps flowing and this is important because if you run out of energy when coding you can damage some things potentially, and even full 80Ah Lead Acid Batteries often can't handle full coding session.
Anyway we are here to assist and if you ever have any issue with our battery let us know. As I said we don't hear a lot of stuff but always want to be in the loop and look at what might be up if there is any issues.
Regarding the model it was the older one RS-30? I can't remember. It did not have the wireless capability. I had the battery for 5 months. During those months I experience the following
Never had an issue with the car not turning on. Only time i believe was that the battery went into sleep mode,
The three instances where I personally had issues, the car started but soon thereafter started having glitches, One time, all of the computer systems started flickering. I tried re-starting the car, then it was completely dead. After I got the hood open, noticed the battery was on sleep mode. Turned it on and then it started like nothing had happened.
Other instances the glitches included errors messages like "rear steering fault" etc. Turned the car off and re-started and it would go away.
Thereafter as we were doing our first build, which required coding out and recoding a lot of items, the guys at the shop continuously had issues which forced them to re-code things several times. Ultimately, this became too much hassle changing batteries etc. so we made the decision to switch back to a larger battery.
Regarding the model it was the older one RS-30? I can't remember. It did not have the wireless capability. I had the battery for 5 months. During those months I experience the following
Never had an issue with the car not turning on. Only time i believe was that the battery went into sleep mode,
The three instances where I personally had issues, the car started but soon thereafter started having glitches, One time, all of the computer systems started flickering. I tried re-starting the car, then it was completely dead. After I got the hood open, noticed the battery was on sleep mode. Turned it on and then it started like nothing had happened.
Other instances the glitches included errors messages like "rear steering fault" etc. Turned the car off and re-started and it would go away.
Thereafter as we were doing our first build, which required coding out and recoding a lot of items, the guys at the shop continuously had issues which forced them to re-code things several times. Ultimately, this became too much hassle changing batteries etc. so we made the decision to switch back to a larger battery.
Hope this helps.
That was perfect and great info. You relayed a lot of points that allowed me to safely assume a few things. But being that was a older version of the Battery and you no longer have the Car then I guess it really doesn't matter all the much except to express for future readers what can happen with Batteries.
For the statements that you made, those are all over-discharge related issues, and I'm not blaiming you for that... could have been a faulty battery or just that is was not quite fully charged or the Car had a higher parastic drain. The primary thing is that the RS30 was a 30Ah Battery. That is actually not a lot of Capacity, but for a Race Car should be fine actually. But from the issues you expressed those were all over-discharge related issues. Meaning the battery seemed like it was just on the cusp of being drained all the time by the symptoms you expressed. Also the Rear Steering is a low voltage related issue.... and our batteries have a low voltage cut-off if they are too low so the protections would kick in if bouncing around the bottom of the state of discharge. Last as I mentioned above the guys who Code should not ever be coding off just a batteries power alone. This was a 30Ah battery not a 70Ah Battery, but during Coding all the systems in the Car are on and pulling a lot of Amperage and that can easily discharge a 30Ah Battery depending on the time of Coding, but then trying to do it again after you already tried it and drained the Battery will make is drain quickly. They make Chargers that the Coders usually use that put our enough Amperage to support the Car and not be using the Batteries energy. They do this because some systems can Brick if you run out of power during the Coding.
Anyway, sorry you had those issues.... I don't know if you reached out to us at that time but we could have maybe assisted in understanding a bit better. Also not blaming anyone.... just pointing out certain issues that can could occur, it also could have been a faulty battery but we didn't see many issues with that Battery. Anyway appreciate the information you gave me. The latest batteries are quite a bit more advanced, but the RS30 was/is a great battery also, but I can understand you points of why you chose not to use it.
That was perfect and great info. You relayed a lot of points that allowed me to safely assume a few things. But being that was a older version of the Battery and you no longer have the Car then I guess it really doesn't matter all the much except to express for future readers what can happen with Batteries.
For the statements that you made, those are all over-discharge related issues, and I'm not blaiming you for that... could have been a faulty battery or just that is was not quite fully charged or the Car had a higher parastic drain. The primary thing is that the RS30 was a 30Ah Battery. That is actually not a lot of Capacity, but for a Race Car should be fine actually. But from the issues you expressed those were all over-discharge related issues. Meaning the battery seemed like it was just on the cusp of being drained all the time by the symptoms you expressed. Also the Rear Steering is a low voltage related issue.... and our batteries have a low voltage cut-off if they are too low so the protections would kick in if bouncing around the bottom of the state of discharge. Last as I mentioned above the guys who Code should not ever be coding off just a batteries power alone. This was a 30Ah battery not a 70Ah Battery, but during Coding all the systems in the Car are on and pulling a lot of Amperage and that can easily discharge a 30Ah Battery depending on the time of Coding, but then trying to do it again after you already tried it and drained the Battery will make is drain quickly. They make Chargers that the Coders usually use that put our enough Amperage to support the Car and not be using the Batteries energy. They do this because some systems can Brick if you run out of power during the Coding.
Anyway, sorry you had those issues.... I don't know if you reached out to us at that time but we could have maybe assisted in understanding a bit better. Also not blaming anyone.... just pointing out certain issues that can could occur, it also could have been a faulty battery but we didn't see many issues with that Battery. Anyway appreciate the information you gave me. The latest batteries are quite a bit more advanced, but the RS30 was/is a great battery also, but I can understand you points of why you chose not to use it.
Thank you for the detail response. As you said its hard to tell now since I don't have the battery anymore. Could have been a faulty battery, or parasitic drain from the VBox or the old radar detector. I'll send you a PM and discuss further and see if i should look at this again on my current build.
when I’m working on the car in my garage I disconnect the lithium and connect the stock battery if I know I’m going to be doing back to back tune changes etc.
the lithium is great for driving and I never had an issue even leaving it for 3 weeks without starting and it started right up...but if I’m going to be using the power without starting the car for 20 or 30 minutes of tuning etc I use the stock bigger battery precisely because once I had the Lithium one get too low and it interrupted my Cobb retune while uploading, had to do recovery mode
I just put a charger on the battery whenever I'm doing any work on the car. I've never had an issue with that. My car can sit a month or more during the winter without being driven *sigh* but the AG fires right up. I have the bluetooth monitor installed and can check on the battery whenever I want. I don't love that the app is always at work, so I install to use it then uninstall it again.
I just put a charger on the battery whenever I'm doing any work on the car. I've never had an issue with that. My car can sit a month or more during the winter without being driven *sigh* but the AG fires right up. I have the bluetooth monitor installed and can check on the battery whenever I want. I don't love that the app is always at work, so I install to use it then uninstall it again.
Hey Randy on the Blue tooth Track App, it should only be ON if you have the App on. If you close it out and it is not live it should not be drawing any energy barely....
Sam has been great to work with and his service is second to none. If you do decide to get out on track, pick up upgraded pads and flush out your brake fluid as the faster the car, the most strain it'll put on those parts. Careful not to catch the bug! I've logged 32 days on track this year even with a pandemic. There's no greater investment you can make than seat time as the driver is what matters most; not the car.
Thanks for the explanation. I come from the world of high revving naturally aspirated cars so this Turbo thing is somewhat new to me. I'm appreciating more and more what these cars are capable of as I certainly don't need more power but it is fun!
You bring up a good point about weight as that's the enemy of everything (corner/straight line speed, fuel consumption, handling, etc). These things are absolute porkers! I can be toe-to-toe with a cup car on the straights but the moment we get into a corner, it seemingly leapfrogs from me and while those cup car drivers are leaps and bounds beyond me in skill, the weight difference is absolutely apparent (granted I'm still on street tires). I've removed my rear seats and replaced it with a GT3 rear seat delete. The full kline inconel system should also help shave a few pounds too. My GT2 carbon buckets shaved off a little bit of weight too but I can't think of anything else reasonable to remove that would help me more (the glass roof doesn't help) without turning it into an all out track car (candidly, I've got track miles than street miles at this point).
And yes, I'm happy to share the videos with the likeminded folks here. There's not a lot of Turbos' on track compared to GT3's so for me, this thread in particular is GOLD as there's so much information on here. Nothing against the other 99% of threads on this forum - cars and coffee, drag racing and 60-130 times just don't interest me so I've found a home here with you guys.
Speaking of tires - that's my next big decision for next year. The local tire shop who caters to all of the grassroots and club racers recommended R888R's as they're cheaper than RE-71's which don't come in my size and supposedly Cup 2's are expensive and fall off a cliff after the first handful of heat cycles. I'm limited on tire choices with the 20's. Hopefully I can get down to the 19's with a stickier tire and just more seat time. I've been eyeballing TPC's PFC kit but $14k on brakes might get me divorced especially with the arrival of our 2nd son 5 weeks ago! Kids ruin everything!
Track driving / racing is extremely addictive! I've done some drag racing and it's fun but nothing like mixing it up on track! With launch software and automatic transmissions any granny can cut a good quarter mile time.
There are many reasons Cup cars are way faster than a street turbo. Weight is a big factor but the stiff chassis from the roll cage and the optimized suspension makes the most of race tires. The lack of rubber in the suspension and the race seats improve feedback to the driver. They carry way more speed through the corners and can get on the throttle quicker on track out.
Without doubt the best way to spend money to go faster is to get some coaching and a good data system for feedback. But being speed freaks we must modify our cars too! LOL You have plenty of power so good tires and a suspension that makes the best of them is the best way to go.
As others have mentioned Porsche uses VTG turbos. They do a fantastic job on the street but when they are pushed on the track heat becomes an issue. With turbos there are two sides to the tale. On the exhaust side the housing and turbine cause excessive back pressure and heat being generated in the engine. There is also an issue on the compressor side of the turbo. Compressor efficiency varies as flow changes. Pushing the compressor to flow more air than designed for reduces efficiency and the air entering the intercooler is much hotter than it could be. Turbo systems designed for racing are sized for good throttle response, smooth midrange torque and operate in the most efficient compressor map area to minimize charge temperature.
Hear is an example of a 3.8L TT set up for road racing. It's a 996 Mezger but the principles are the same as a 991.
nice torque curve for curvy track racing, very progressive until it table tops out so it’ll have good throttle/power modulation which you lose a bit of in some big turbo setups where they can be more on/off on the big power...there are trade offs to be made with any setup though so it’s really about how you use your car the most I guess.
If I mashed the fun pedal to early coming out of a curve with my setup I’d be suddenly practicing my drifting skills lol
Last edited by Steven31371; 11-18-2020 at 02:32 PM.
nice torque curve for curvy track racing, very progressive until it table tops out so it’ll have good throttle/power modulation which you lose a bit of in some big turbo setups where they can be more on/off on the big power...there are trade offs to be made with any setup though so it’s really about how you use your car the most I guess.
This is race only. No street driving at all. More power is possible but in a 2800 lb car not needed at the moment! LOL
Hey Randy on the Blue tooth Track App, it should only be ON if you have the App on. If you close it out and it is not live it should not be drawing any energy barely....
The phone app runs all the time. That's my issue. It never stops looking for the car!! If I close the app, it's mysteriously back on a few minutes later.
nice torque curve for curvy track racing, very progressive until it table tops out so it’ll have good throttle/power modulation which you lose a bit of in some big turbo setups where they can be more on/off on the big power...there are trade offs to be made with any setup though so it’s really about how you use your car the most I guess.
If I mashed the fun pedal to early coming out of a curve with my setup I’d be suddenly practicing my drifting skills lol
That is an awesome power output! It's amazing how strong these engines are!
The phone app runs all the time. That's my issue. It never stops looking for the car!! If I close the app, it's mysteriously back on a few minutes later.
Oh, then that is really odd. I don't know if there is a setting in the App or something, but normally if you turn off the Battery Tracker App it is off until you open it yourself again. I'll ask Chad if he know about that.
Just completed my 35th track day this past sunday at Summit Point with the VRG Turkey Bowl on track between their races. It was a blast sharing the track with some open wheel racers; you give them the point by and next thing you know, this little skateboard comes flying by! It was a fantastic season for me and I learned a lot. It was a cold day at the track and the temps struggled to get above 55 degrees. Couldn't get much heat into the tires and didn't push it too hard to keep the shiny side up for the last event of the year.
A few laps of me chasing one of the open wheel cars around the track.
All of this culminated into an afternoon swapping the GT2 buckets out for the heated OEM seats with a quick coding session on my PIWIS.
It was a memorable season for sure and I've made some good improvements. On street tires, I'm running 1:21's and next year will likely start with a set of R compounds. I did want to thank members of this thread for the encouragement, feedback and knowledge sharing. It was also great getting a chance to meet RandyC in person at VIR!. A few vendors also deserve a nod here, specifically the crew over at TPC Racing and my man Sam at ByDesign.
Now, it's time to begin planning next season's events!
Cheers friends.
11-15-2020, 01:31 PM
