KONG991TT

A few photo's and videos from the fathers day DE @ Summit Point's Shenny Circuit.
Bonus footage of my cell phone mount (that should have been tethered) hitting me in the helmet.

Pdtp#16

Awesome pics! BTW if you send your video to Tom they will also give you some pointers! Regarding tire sizes 265's fit as well. Just make sure you keep a proper ratio between front and rear diameter.

KONG991TT

Ran Summit Point Main for the Colonial Challenge Cup Spring Track Day - first time on the main circuit for me so I haven't found the best line yet.
Fresh set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4S's - 255/35/20 (34 psi hot) up front and 315/30/20 (36 psi hot) in the rear. I was considering picking up a set of RE-71/Toyo 888's but I'm considering staying on a street tire because they talk to you more and have a lower limit. Fastest lap of the day - 1:25


Any feedback from all you pro's is welcomed and appreciated.

2fcknfst

Those are some really great pics - that track looks pretty cool too. Looks like fun.

Pdtp#16

Looks awesome. You definitely got the bug!. Keep practicing, watch tons of videos specially pros, get coaching. this helps A LOT. Ride right seat with a coach driving your car will help you feel how much more you can push the car. Also i have used https://racers360.com/coaches/ to analyze my laps and its help a lot. Some of these guys also come to many of our regular events. For example, Skeen will usually be at most David Murray's events, I've seen Jade Bufford at a few chin events etc. You will be surprised how much faster you ca get with a good coach. More importantly keep having fun and keep sending pics and videos.

KONG991TT

Thanks for the references. I've got another kid on the way and this is my year to get in. I'm considering a pair of 997 GT2 buckets to help keep me in place but as a street car first and foremost, I'd be tipping the scales in terms of what is practical. I'm reading that it's not a "plug and play" even though I've got a PIWIS. For now, my focus is just getting more seat time as the last time I was actively doing DE's, I had an Integra Type R which considerably less powerful. I'm going to stick with the PS4S's rather than a Cup 2's or RE-71's because the lower traction will continue to give me more feedback as I continue to lose the car. For now, it's seat time and skidpad work to continue to feel the car out and work on that hand-eye-foot coordination.

KONG991TT

A few pictures from yesterday's event

Archille

Looking good!

KONG991TT

Need some guidance from the community here - I'm hitting the ground running with plenty of seat time lined up and have always been a firm believer in brakes and tires as the key components to safety and speed. I have 2 sets of OEM 10 spoke's and was considering a set of RE-71's or Toyo 888R's for track duty but decided on staying with the PS4S's lower limits and just learn the car. I'm considering following a similar logic with the brakes by continuing with stock pads and rotors with Castrol SRF but the long front straight at Summit Point has me wanting a little more bite when the brakes are hot (i'm braking very early down the front straight and riding them in rather than checking down my brake points and threshold braking).

1) Ferodo DS1.11's - I'm thinking about just swapping a set in but how bad do they chew up the stock rotors? How do they hold up to street duty? Dust?
2) Gyrodiscs - It's a costly upgrade. How much of an improvement are they compared to stock rotors running DS1.11's? How many DE's will these last for an intermediate driver?
3) Brake cooling ducts - Do our cars have cooling ducts from the factory? Are there any available upgrades for larger ones?

I'm really trying to figure out if I need to do the entire upgrade and what kind of compromises might need to be made as the car is a weekend street car that I'll run 4-6 DE's per year with.

Pdtp#16

Ferodo's are great and work well with the stock rotors.

Gyrodisc you spend roughly $200 more per set initially, but thereafter its almost half the cost of swapping the stock rotors. As such i would wait until that happens and then you can make a decision of which way to go. If you are only doing 4-6 events a year i wouldn't worry about this too much. Stock rotors work fine BTW. I believe Jean still uses them on his car and he pushes it really hard.

Regarding ware, its varies A LOT on driver and track. For example, you can have a pro who is pushing the car really hard and braking really late and yet he might be easier on the brakes than a novice driver. Reason for this is the pro will have a lot of brake pressure upfront for a really short stint and then trail brake thereafter using not just the brakes to slow the car down but the tires and rotation. So while the initial brake pressure was much higher than what an amateur driver, they are off the brakes much quicker, less time on the brakes = less heat etc. An amateur might not push as much pressure on the brakes , say a third of the way, but for a much longer period generating a lot more heat and ware. If you are planning on tracking consistently you should include these as part of our consumables. I was able to get 3 track days out of my front pads and 4 track days out of my rears on Ferodo's and Gyro discs. Disc last me roughly 6 +/- track days. Keep in mind that FL can get pretty hot, sebring is tough on brakes and i'm running either slicks or trofeo r's. You should get a lot more usage on PS4's and up north where temperatures are cooler. I'm now running PFC's brakes and pads are wider so hopefully they last a little longer.

Cars have cooling vents on the floor of the car and on the lca's directing air into the brakes. They actually work well.

For what you are doing, stock rotors with ferodos and good temp fluid will work really well. I see on the picks that you are running the standard steel rotors from a non S car. If so, as you start pushing the car harder, you will need to remove the rubber dust boots. You will go through the dust boots in a couple of track sessions. Just make sure you properly service the calipers when installing new pads thereafter.

KONG991TT

Pdtp - thank you for your response as it is EXACTLY what I was looking for. The example you used about an amateur driver being on the brakes more is exactly what i'm doing. During the last few sessions at Summit main, I'm on the brakes well before the brake points (i'm still a little gun shy as the speeds are much higher than what I'm used to).

I think I will likely follow your suggestion of just running the pads with stock rotors for now. I'm going to need to research the proper service to the calipers and the rubber dust boots. I'm still in learning mode right now with this platform so the dust boots are something I need to look into more. I also read somewhere that replacing the caliper bolts are needed as well.

Thanks for all of the great information - this is super valuable and helpful!

Jking911

So, im fairly new to the Porsche scene, coming from corvettes. I've been reading through this post and was wondering how you guys are able to run the lower tire air pressures that you are running? Running it with low pressure lights on, or does dsc boxes fix it?? Thanks guys...

KONG991TT

Welcome to the party! The DSC box works the car's suspension system but I don't believe it interferes with the TPM system. There are 2 settings within the TPM menu in the PCM and I usually set it to "Comfort Pressure". It's summer and I usually go out at 30F/32R and get them up to 33F/35R. The low tire pressure warning will be on when I go out but usually after 2-3 laps, it will go off. Not sure if anyone else has figured out a way to turn it off but that's typically what I do.
Here's what my tread wear looks like at those pressures after a few hot laps.

Jking911

thanks. I knew about the comfort settings, but the way the owners manual read, not to use those settings at higher speeds. I don't really understand that, but the non comfort settings tire pressures are ridiculously high! I will go back to comfort and get my pressure's back down. I don't track my car, but we do aggressive road drives here where tire temps do go up.

Randyc151

Porsche's tire pressure guidelines are not designed to give the best performance, they are to cover Porsche from lawsuits for tire failure. Google "Ford vs Firestone Tire" and see where the auto manufacturers all learned to just tell customers to run at much higher pressures to reduce the chance of lawsuits.

I always go out on track with the tire pressure lights on, and it usually never turns off on track. I don't worry about it, but I do keep the tire pressure display on the dash so I can look for slow leaks while I'm out. (The GT2 RS and some other GT models will allow you to run in "Competition Mode" with lower pressure, but I find it to be a pain to go back and forth.)