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Does anybody else have experience or feedback on these pads?
The Raybestos ST 43/45/47 series is popular among Viper track rats on iron rotors. I use the ST45 on the front and ST43 on the rear of my '14 Viper TA and they have great bite and have been outstanding on track coupled with SRF React. I do get some squealing on the street a while after tracking it, but sometimes not at all. I've assumed it's the ST45s on the front I hear.
I'm a bit surprised that the more streetable ST 43 stands up with CCB rotors on your GT2RS though because of their higher operating temps.
Cup2R report: I don't think Michelin is making the Cup2R for the TTS YET, but they will soon enough. I tracked them at VIR for the past 4 days, and was really impressed by them...until they turned back into Cup2's by the end of the day yesterday. First 3 days, the grip was noticeably better. Cut my lap times by about 2 seconds with some traffic thrown in, and the cornering and especially the braking were a big difference. By yesterday afternoon, they started to give up some of that grip advantage, and it may be the hot track, but I think I've used up all of the 2mm of racing slick compound that's applied to the outermost layer of rubber. So for about $1000 more than Cup2, you get 3+ days of exceptional grip, then you get down to the regular ole compound which is still pretty good. I think I've been spoiled now. The only other point I noticed, they do change PSI more than the standard Cup2. I had to cut short a couple of sessions when the pressure went from 26 cold to over 36 hot.
Brake pad report: I found myself in a bind for pads on Tuesday night, and needed something I could get delivered on Wednesday. Clark at Apex was closed for the day, so I figured the only shot was to call the West Coast and see what I could find. Sharkwerks was my first stop, but they don't stock pads. They suggested the only people that would have something in stock for shipment that night was...Girodisc. (Really??) I called Girodisc and discovered that they teamed up with Raybestos on a pad using Raybestos ST43 racing compound that pairs perfectly with their steel rotors. Now to be fair, I have zero street experience with them yet, but on track they were stellar. STELLAR. I think the tires mentioned above helped too, but they felt great. The combination allowed me to shorten my brake zone by a full marker without inducing panic. I probably could have shortened even more if my labia wasn't in the way (hard braking from 175mph can get in your head). I'll continue to report, but the initial feedback is that they are excellent with a wonderful moderate initial bite and they stay very linear after. No issues with temperatures - they worked well from lap one in cooler conditions, and warmed up faster than the tires did. The rumor is they will squeal a bit on the street. I will report back on that soon. Does anybody else have experience or feedback on these pads?
As usual great report. Does this look familiar!
Good to hear that you liked the Cup R's. Are they worth the extra $$$. How many more sessions do you think you have? or are they shot after 3 days? Ran Trofeo R's last few weeks and my rears where gone after three days. To be fair, i think they would have lasted two more days if i had more camber and was running a lower pressures (also very high temps down in FL). Even with that, at least this set, i did not find a big difference in performance drop, or at least not as dramatic as i found with the Hoosiers. Regarding break pads i've been using Pagid Red RST3. I have found them pretty consistent but they are eating the rotors pretty fast. I don't think they will last until the end of the year. Seems like the Raybestos are working great, keep us posted on how your discs do. Maybe i'll keep one more set or Giro's before jumping to PFC's.
For those of you that put in aftermarket seats do u get the seat belt warning chime? I know the airbag light stays on but how about the seatbelt light and chime. I wasn't able to keep the seatbelt receptacles because the holes in the racetech seats I got were too small to accommodate the receptacle
Yep, that's me. Notice the pop-up tent in the background? Here's what I found when I sprung open the door on my trailer Sunday morning!!
Thank goodness for full Xpel coverage!! The roof was dented in when I found it, but after I dumped the water and got the tent off, it popped right back out, and only a tear in the Xpel. That was a close call!
Yep, that's me. Notice the pop-up tent in the background? Here's what I found when I sprung open the door on my trailer Sunday morning!!
Thank goodness for full Xpel coverage!! The roof was dented in when I found it, but after I dumped the water and got the tent off, it popped right back out, and only a tear in the Xpel. That was a close call!
Yikes! Scary.
how have you found removing tire marks from the xpel?
how have you found removing tire marks from the xpel?
I have been using Mother's R3 "Racing Rubber Remover" on Xpel for years. Spray it on...wait 30-40 seconds...easily wipe right off. If you havn't discovered R3, it's a must-use product.
I expect no ceramic coating would help, so I hit it with Pledge wax afterwards on occasion, too, just to keep up the gloss. I've been doing this combo for years, so I'm sure it's safe and effective.
I have been using Mother's 3R "Racing Rubber Remover" on Xpel for years. Spray it on...wait 30-40 seconds...easily wipe right off. If you havn't discovered 3R, it's a must-use product.
I expect no ceramic coating would help, so I hit it with Pledge wax afterwards on occasion, too, just to keep up the gloss. I've been doing this combo for years, so I'm sure it's safe and effective.
that’s great!. Wished I would have known earlier. Tried a few other things but all seemed to make the xpel yellow after a while or not really remove the rubber.
Good to hear that you liked the Cup R's. Are they worth the extra $$$. How many more sessions do you think you have? or are they shot after 3 days? Ran Trofeo R's last few weeks and my rears where gone after three days. To be fair, i think they would have lasted two more days if i had more camber and was running a lower pressures (also very high temps down in FL). Even with that, at least this set, i did not find a big difference in performance drop, or at least not as dramatic as i found with the Hoosiers. Regarding break pads i've been using Pagid Red RST3. I have found them pretty consistent but they are eating the rotors pretty fast. I don't think they will last until the end of the year. Seems like the Raybestos are working great, keep us posted on how your discs do. Maybe i'll keep one more set or Giro's before jumping to PFC's.
They are about $1200 more per set than standard Cup2, and I will probably alternate them. I love the added grip, but I don't always need to go for lap records to have fun, either. They are faster, for sure. I pulled them yesterday for a good look, and I could definitely use more camber than the setup provided by TPC (which was provided to them by Lars Kern) to maximize tire wear, but not necessarily performance. 3 of the Girodisc/Raybestos pads are perfectly quiet on street, with one still chirping with each rotation of the wheel. I pulled that brake and reassembled everything last night, and hopefully that will shut up the forth wheel. On street, they feel and sound just like the Ferrodo DS1.11. The wear after 3 full days on track seemed very, very reasonable, too.
Originally Posted by ArtF10
For those of you that put in aftermarket seats do u get the seat belt warning chime? I know the airbag light stays on but how about the seatbelt light and chime. I wasn't able to keep the seatbelt receptacles because the holes in the racetech seats I got were too small to accommodate the receptacle
Yep, you are going to get that chime unless you install the receptacle and put a blank in it. Maybe just ziptie it under the seat somehow? Anyway, either reinstall it somehow or look for a software hack to stop the chime. No way could I drive on track with that chiming constantly.
They are about $1200 more per set than standard Cup2, and I will probably alternate them. I love the added grip, but I don't always need to go for lap records to have fun, either. They are faster, for sure. I pulled them yesterday for a good look, and I could definitely use more camber than the setup provided by TPC (which was provided to them by Lars Kern) to maximize tire wear, but not necessarily performance. 3 of the Girodisc/Raybestos pads are perfectly quiet on street, with one still chirping with each rotation of the wheel. I pulled that brake and reassembled everything last night, and hopefully that will shut up the forth wheel. On street, they feel and sound just like the Ferrodo DS1.11. The wear after 3 full days on track seemed very, very reasonable, too.
Yep, you are going to get that chime unless you install the receptacle and put a blank in it. Maybe just ziptie it under the seat somehow? Anyway, either reinstall it somehow or look for a software hack to stop the chime. No way could I drive on track with that chiming constantly.
Makes sense on the tires. I know that Trakcar actually switched to Dunlops as an alternative between the Cup2R and the Cup2. Trying to see how can i get more camber on the rear yet keep using Porsche parts. I changed from all aftermarket parts back to Porsche parts with solid bearings and the car is handling better. With that said the rear lower wishbone / arm maxes out pretty quick. Need to reach out to Mike and see what he things. I know the 2rs has ca completely different rear suspension so cant use those. Will try the Raybestos next time.
Artf10, BTW if you have a good shop that works on Porsche computers you can have them disconnect them and remove the chime.
Girodisc Raybestos ST43 brake update: I wrote previously about the track performance of the ST43 pads from Girodisc - they felt awesome, but I was also running Cup2R tires. The other side of the story is street use, which I've got under my belt now. Originally expecting more noise from these pads, when I installed them I lightly applied some brake grease designed for trash trucks (3000 degree max temp range) as part of the install - I've occasionally used brake grease on a Porsche before, btw. Initially on the road after the long track weekend, I was getting 3 quiet brakes and the right rear was chirping and squealing nearly constantly. My solution was to pull that caliper and re-seat and re-grease those pads, and voila, the pad is now just as quiet as the rest.
I would say these ST43 pads with Girodisc rotors are just as quiet as the OEM pads on that originally came with the PCCBs, meaning a rare chirp or squeal or mild grinding on occasion, but I don't mind driving in my neighborhood with them at all. Pad life after 3 hard track days looks excellent, too. They are priced identically to the Ferrodo DS1.11, but I'm not positive on what the new DS3.12 will cost. A friend has been running the DS3.12 pads on his GT3 and thinks they are a big improvement over the 1.11, so we have a stalemate. I like the ST43 pads so much right now, I'm not sure I will want to change to try the 3.12's, but we will wait and see as these pads get more use and wear. If you are worried about street use, so far these pads have been perfectly fine.
Here's the Permatex Extreme caliper grease I've liked over the past 5-7 years:
A race car or dedicated track car does not need to worry about street civility, and those of us in DE world split the two sides with a solution needed for street and track (Street cars don't need it, and track cars don't need it - only cars that do dual duty). I think this is the solution. I use VERY LITTLE on the pistons and pad backs, and the springs and pins that hold the pads in place. I also clean off any that squeezes out after the parts are mated together. On first track use, there is a hint of smoke that goes away with extended cool-down driving, and then I never notice it again.
10-22-2019, 03:36 PM
