Setup numbers RS
10-02-2017, 01:44 PM
#751
Trakcar,
How about a quick summary of your setup? Alignment, bars, tire pressures cold/hot.
Off to Buttonwillow end of October and want my shop to replicate before I head out.
Cheers.....
How about a quick summary of your setup? Alignment, bars, tire pressures cold/hot.
Off to Buttonwillow end of October and want my shop to replicate before I head out.
Cheers.....
10-02-2017, 05:48 PM
#752
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
MPSC2 F 29/30 R 31/33
Toe F zero, Toe R 2mm in each side
Camber F -2 R -2.5
Sway bar F middle, R full stiff
Factory rake as per factory track setup document minus one turn all around.
Kills rear outers of tires in 3 days.
More camber doesn't help, less toe rear doesn't help.
Full stiff rear bar helps, DSC controller helps.
Toe F zero, Toe R 2mm in each side
Camber F -2 R -2.5
Sway bar F middle, R full stiff
Factory rake as per factory track setup document minus one turn all around.
Kills rear outers of tires in 3 days.
More camber doesn't help, less toe rear doesn't help.
Full stiff rear bar helps, DSC controller helps.
10-04-2017, 08:20 AM
#754
Great Thread. I just got my RS and have been busy reading through the whole thread.
Thanks for the updates on set ups. You guy are hardcore. I plan to track the RS just a couple of times a year. I prefer my Spec Pinata for track abuse, well I say that right now.
I am going to COTA in November. What do you guys recommend since I am a newbie.
I was thinking -2F/-2R and sway bar set up per Trackcar.
Thanks for the updates on set ups. You guy are hardcore. I plan to track the RS just a couple of times a year. I prefer my Spec Pinata for track abuse, well I say that right now.
I am going to COTA in November. What do you guys recommend since I am a newbie.
I was thinking -2F/-2R and sway bar set up per Trackcar.
10-04-2017, 10:16 AM
#755
I am not a hardcore track guy only doing about 10 to 12 days per year, 1,500 track miles. I run Tramcar's spec of -2F and -2R with good results, wear is manageable and car performs will at the OEM settings. I might add that the RS is one of the few cars that do well with the OEM spec.
10-04-2017, 11:46 AM
#756
Thx.
BTW - I keep reading the 911R weight reduction thread. Has anyone weighed their RS with all fluids(Full tank of gas) and tried weight reduction. IIRC 10 lbs = 1 HP but prolly worth more in responsiveness.
BTW - I keep reading the 911R weight reduction thread. Has anyone weighed their RS with all fluids(Full tank of gas) and tried weight reduction. IIRC 10 lbs = 1 HP but prolly worth more in responsiveness.
10-09-2017, 01:15 AM
#757
Rennlist Member
Needing new tires again and considering trying something different. I noted on TR's site that Dunlops are listed as N0, as opposed to N1 for the Cup2s. Considering trying them. Anybody who has experienced both care to share comments on grip and wear between the two?
Setup consistent with Trakcar other than rear toe, which I might try upping (currently at factor setting.) Got another day in this weekend after a while - each time I get out I love the car more.
Setup consistent with Trakcar other than rear toe, which I might try upping (currently at factor setting.) Got another day in this weekend after a while - each time I get out I love the car more.
10-10-2017, 11:32 AM
#758
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here is my 19,000 mile update with my Labstone oil report.
All seems OK, a little more copper mentioned but I don't know what's acceptable and it was higher before and came down again. This was a LOT of track miles without oil change.
Last oil change 8-9 track days and 3xxx miles ago, most track days where at 80F plus.
Consumables, per day
-2 days at Sebring in April (2 single days testing the DSC box, see POST 573 so that’s at least 500 street miles driving to and from Sebring)
After those 2 days @ 17,000 miles:
Changed pads before this all around to a new set of Race Technologies RE-10
Bled the brakes (Castrol SRF) for the first time.
Front rotors had 6 days of Sebring on them and the rears had a total of 46 track days on them.
New tires.
Next track days for a total of 54-55 track days:
-1 ½ day at Sebring in May (2:16’s)
Added 100cc of Mobil1.
Mini Mancation: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...-roebling.html
- 2 days at Road Atlanta in May (1.34’s, a half second slower then 997 3.8RS on Nitto) 4-5 sessions per day.
- ½ day at AMP (1.31’s) emptied one tank in two sessions.
This finished off the tires, so new tires were mounted.
Added 100cc Mobil1
- 2 days at VIR (2:00’s 6-7 seconds faster then 997 3.8RS on Nitto) drove a lot and hard, should be counted like 3-4 days.
After 1 day VIR, I replaced the front pads because they looked thin and VIR is pretty hard on brakes into T1, and I still had a day at VIR and 2 days at Roebling coming up the next days.
So AT BEST the Race Technologies will last 10 track days, even pre-bedded. I replaced them after 7 days.. and they had about 20-30% left. Rears were still fine.
- 2 days Roebling Road (1:19’s, tires were fried at VIR and so two seconds slower then 997 3.8RS on Nitto)
Swapped rear tires because left rear corded after 2 days VIR.
OIL:
Added twice 100cc after 2 track days so minimal oil use.
Oil warning, so annoying!
The last 2 track days each time the car asked for oil (about 5 times, all while idling.), I opened the rear deck lid for 10 seconds and it would go off.
I would drive a 20 minute session or drive to the hotel and it wouldn’t come on.
Its stayed off but the screen said it’s on the bottom indicator (Yellow) before the oil change.
Now that the oil has been changed I got an oil overfill warning, UGH.. It will go away in a few launches or track days but annoying.
Brakes:
The rear OEM rotors now have 54-55 days and look fine. Rear pads 8 days look fine.
The front OEM rotors now have 14-15 days and look pretty rough. Front pads 3 days look fine.
Next time I swap pads in about 6 track days I will swap rotors (rear 60-1 days, front 20-1 days) and try the Ferodo DS1.11 because they are cheaper than the RE-10’s and I read good things.
With proper bedding and new rotors, I will be able to test them properly. The cost from Apex is +/- $850 VS $1200 for a set of four, so will try and see how pads and rotors last.
Tires:
Front tires not corded but close and rear tires lightly corded on both sides. Will need 4 tires before next track day.
MPSC2 don’t work in over 80F weather for more than 4 laps. They just overheat. Need to start on 22PSI to keep it from going over 32PSI.
MPSC2 get slower after the 2nd day, even 3rd day they are losing time and only in their prime at 2 days or 8-10 cycles.
I got 4 days out of the last 2 sets of rears, the fronts could go another couple of days so if I flip fronts I would say 6 days out of the fronts but the last 2 will be slower by about a second or two per lap.
Maybe that could be solved with a soft front sway bar.
If I want to be sure I can finish day 4, I should flip the rears after 2 days. I've corded a few after just 3 days.
I want to try Trofeo’s but at Goodwood I spoke to AP and Walliser and they clearly seem to prefer the MPSC2 and told me the new N2 spec is longer, faster. Available in a couple of months when the GT2RS arrives.
When I asked about Trofeo’s, AP said “it’s a good qualifying tire”
Annoying and unsafe:
Drove the car to 26 Miles To EMPTY, got neutral out of T7 at Road ATL and could not find a gear. Had to turn off the car and restart. After restart only had uneven gears and limp mode. Limped to gas station and all was fine after fill up. Not safe Porsche!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFYzyqamyWo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rkmjvpjs5qg
I have sent an e-mail with the Youtube video;s to AP after discussing this with him at Goodwood.
Still annoys me is that the car wont "take Circuit PSI Setting" under 26 PSI, so that means; Go out at 22-24PSI, take a couple of laps and come in to reset PSI.
If you go out under 26PSI and don't come in to reset the system during a pit stop the PSI warnings keep popping up, filling the screen with red, its distracting to have to click it away.
Setup:
My setup as the car came in at 19,000 miles and the new setup:
Ride height unchanged at 118F and 278R
DSC box helps with lean and outer tire wear
Front bar middle
Rear bar full stiff
Camber Front -2
Camber Rear CHANGE -1.6 (It was supposed to be -2 so something was off), I have now set the rear camber -2.6 to try that, hopefully with a set of MPSC2 N2 spec soon.
Toe front 0
Toe rear CHANGE -0.00 to -1.0mm each side (Also off a lot!) redone the setup and now measures -2mm each side to add stability under threshold braking / compensate for more camber rear.
In other words the rear was pretty messed up somehow so I expect more understeer with this setup on corner exit.
I ran these numbers by AP and he seemed to think its all OK.
Aero:
No change
Front fender grills removed.
Does not affect dirt on the side of the car or anything coming through hitting the car. No black marks or anything due to removal. no problem in Monsoon rain driving home either.
Rear wing setting is as delivered but added Dundon Gurney flap. It didn't seem to affect top speed but hard to tell in varying temperatures. Highest GPS speed at Sebring is 150MPH, maybe at Daytona the difference would be more noticeable.
No other modifications.
Loving my Racelogic / VBox.
Next up:
I will check in and report about maybe Trofeo’s or MPSC2 N2 spec and Ferrodo pads.
Its going to take a while because I won’t do much tracking this s
All seems OK, a little more copper mentioned but I don't know what's acceptable and it was higher before and came down again. This was a LOT of track miles without oil change.
Last oil change 8-9 track days and 3xxx miles ago, most track days where at 80F plus.
Consumables, per day
-2 days at Sebring in April (2 single days testing the DSC box, see POST 573 so that’s at least 500 street miles driving to and from Sebring)
After those 2 days @ 17,000 miles:
Changed pads before this all around to a new set of Race Technologies RE-10
Bled the brakes (Castrol SRF) for the first time.
Front rotors had 6 days of Sebring on them and the rears had a total of 46 track days on them.
New tires.
Next track days for a total of 54-55 track days:
-1 ½ day at Sebring in May (2:16’s)
Added 100cc of Mobil1.
Mini Mancation: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...-roebling.html
- 2 days at Road Atlanta in May (1.34’s, a half second slower then 997 3.8RS on Nitto) 4-5 sessions per day.
- ½ day at AMP (1.31’s) emptied one tank in two sessions.
This finished off the tires, so new tires were mounted.
Added 100cc Mobil1
- 2 days at VIR (2:00’s 6-7 seconds faster then 997 3.8RS on Nitto) drove a lot and hard, should be counted like 3-4 days.
After 1 day VIR, I replaced the front pads because they looked thin and VIR is pretty hard on brakes into T1, and I still had a day at VIR and 2 days at Roebling coming up the next days.
So AT BEST the Race Technologies will last 10 track days, even pre-bedded. I replaced them after 7 days.. and they had about 20-30% left. Rears were still fine.
- 2 days Roebling Road (1:19’s, tires were fried at VIR and so two seconds slower then 997 3.8RS on Nitto)
Swapped rear tires because left rear corded after 2 days VIR.
OIL:
Added twice 100cc after 2 track days so minimal oil use.
Oil warning, so annoying!
The last 2 track days each time the car asked for oil (about 5 times, all while idling.), I opened the rear deck lid for 10 seconds and it would go off.
I would drive a 20 minute session or drive to the hotel and it wouldn’t come on.
Its stayed off but the screen said it’s on the bottom indicator (Yellow) before the oil change.
Now that the oil has been changed I got an oil overfill warning, UGH.. It will go away in a few launches or track days but annoying.
Brakes:
The rear OEM rotors now have 54-55 days and look fine. Rear pads 8 days look fine.
The front OEM rotors now have 14-15 days and look pretty rough. Front pads 3 days look fine.
Next time I swap pads in about 6 track days I will swap rotors (rear 60-1 days, front 20-1 days) and try the Ferodo DS1.11 because they are cheaper than the RE-10’s and I read good things.
With proper bedding and new rotors, I will be able to test them properly. The cost from Apex is +/- $850 VS $1200 for a set of four, so will try and see how pads and rotors last.
Tires:
Front tires not corded but close and rear tires lightly corded on both sides. Will need 4 tires before next track day.
MPSC2 don’t work in over 80F weather for more than 4 laps. They just overheat. Need to start on 22PSI to keep it from going over 32PSI.
MPSC2 get slower after the 2nd day, even 3rd day they are losing time and only in their prime at 2 days or 8-10 cycles.
I got 4 days out of the last 2 sets of rears, the fronts could go another couple of days so if I flip fronts I would say 6 days out of the fronts but the last 2 will be slower by about a second or two per lap.
Maybe that could be solved with a soft front sway bar.
If I want to be sure I can finish day 4, I should flip the rears after 2 days. I've corded a few after just 3 days.
I want to try Trofeo’s but at Goodwood I spoke to AP and Walliser and they clearly seem to prefer the MPSC2 and told me the new N2 spec is longer, faster. Available in a couple of months when the GT2RS arrives.
When I asked about Trofeo’s, AP said “it’s a good qualifying tire”
Annoying and unsafe:
Drove the car to 26 Miles To EMPTY, got neutral out of T7 at Road ATL and could not find a gear. Had to turn off the car and restart. After restart only had uneven gears and limp mode. Limped to gas station and all was fine after fill up. Not safe Porsche!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFYzyqamyWo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rkmjvpjs5qg
I have sent an e-mail with the Youtube video;s to AP after discussing this with him at Goodwood.
Still annoys me is that the car wont "take Circuit PSI Setting" under 26 PSI, so that means; Go out at 22-24PSI, take a couple of laps and come in to reset PSI.
If you go out under 26PSI and don't come in to reset the system during a pit stop the PSI warnings keep popping up, filling the screen with red, its distracting to have to click it away.
Setup:
My setup as the car came in at 19,000 miles and the new setup:
Ride height unchanged at 118F and 278R
DSC box helps with lean and outer tire wear
Front bar middle
Rear bar full stiff
Camber Front -2
Camber Rear CHANGE -1.6 (It was supposed to be -2 so something was off), I have now set the rear camber -2.6 to try that, hopefully with a set of MPSC2 N2 spec soon.
Toe front 0
Toe rear CHANGE -0.00 to -1.0mm each side (Also off a lot!) redone the setup and now measures -2mm each side to add stability under threshold braking / compensate for more camber rear.
In other words the rear was pretty messed up somehow so I expect more understeer with this setup on corner exit.
I ran these numbers by AP and he seemed to think its all OK.
Aero:
No change
Front fender grills removed.
Does not affect dirt on the side of the car or anything coming through hitting the car. No black marks or anything due to removal. no problem in Monsoon rain driving home either.
Rear wing setting is as delivered but added Dundon Gurney flap. It didn't seem to affect top speed but hard to tell in varying temperatures. Highest GPS speed at Sebring is 150MPH, maybe at Daytona the difference would be more noticeable.
No other modifications.
Loving my Racelogic / VBox.
Next up:
I will check in and report about maybe Trofeo’s or MPSC2 N2 spec and Ferrodo pads.
Its going to take a while because I won’t do much tracking this s
Drove the car from Florida to Road America for 4 track days there.
That's all the 3000 miles were from.
Zero oil use in those 3000 miles.
My car has been at Champion for two and a half weeks now, so I checked in this morning to see what's going on.
Dropped off the car for its second annual "do everything because I say so" service interval with 22,000 miles.
Also doing the 12,000 mile bearings, hub, CL lock Track maintenance..
Picked up my oil sample and will be sending that in today, so I will have that back next week.
So far; Some brake pucks are cracked; I requested a formal Porsche denial of warranty or new calipers.
Since Porsche doesn't sell the pucks I just want to see where Porsche stands with us on fixing them.
The spark plugs looked very worrysome. 5 of the 6 plugs lost the 4 little prongs, so if you track the car you need new plugs every 6000 miles or sooner.
The spark plugs were replaced last year.
The drive belt was split in half! That's scary..
PICS:
Should get the car back next week with the invoice for everything and post Blackstone lab oil here as well.
10-11-2017, 04:24 PM
#761
Rennlist Member
The plugs and belt are a hit scary. Coming up to 5k so will change plugs before next season.
One other random thing to note. After my last track day I noticed a little wiggle in the rear wing. The front passenger side bolt had started to back itself out, I can wiggle it by hand. Worth having them check the torque on those while in.
One other random thing to note. After my last track day I noticed a little wiggle in the rear wing. The front passenger side bolt had started to back itself out, I can wiggle it by hand. Worth having them check the torque on those while in.
Last edited by signes; 10-11-2017 at 04:59 PM.
10-19-2017, 07:12 PM
#763
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
My car is still at the dealer because they are replacing the calipers with cracked pucks under warranty.
They are replacing the left front and right rear brake calipers, right front seals, and left rear seals.
I'll take it, well done Porsche, well done.
I don't have the car back yet, so no invoice with part numbers yet, but hopefully that will happen Saturday or early next week.
The Blackstone oil report, I did receive today and it all still looks honkiedorie, even with the spark plugs burned away. If anything it looks better and this these last 3000 miles I haven't added ANY oil.
They are replacing the left front and right rear brake calipers, right front seals, and left rear seals.
I'll take it, well done Porsche, well done.
I don't have the car back yet, so no invoice with part numbers yet, but hopefully that will happen Saturday or early next week.
The Blackstone oil report, I did receive today and it all still looks honkiedorie, even with the spark plugs burned away. If anything it looks better and this these last 3000 miles I haven't added ANY oil.
10-21-2017, 01:53 PM
#764
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
$11K 2 year service part# and photo's
Just picked up may car and paid $11K, see list below.
Doesn't include new rotors and pads that I put on myself before bringing the car in. These are my 4th set of front rotors and my second set of rears.
Also doesn't include new corner balancing and alignment as I will set it up for Daytona Thursday and then go from there.
All the wheel lock parts that came off the car look good to me, I guess that is the point of replacing parts that time out BEFORE they time out. Probably overkill, but good for confidence in the car going 10/10th.
Doesn't include new rotors and pads that I put on myself before bringing the car in. These are my 4th set of front rotors and my second set of rears.
Also doesn't include new corner balancing and alignment as I will set it up for Daytona Thursday and then go from there.
All the wheel lock parts that came off the car look good to me, I guess that is the point of replacing parts that time out BEFORE they time out. Probably overkill, but good for confidence in the car going 10/10th.
10-21-2017, 01:57 PM
#765
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
A few photo's and part numbers of the parts replaced:
Split drive belt
Dirty air filter
Hubs part # 991-341-607-81
New LF and 22,000 RF caliper, slight color difference but nothing like the complete discoloration that we had on the 997's.
Spark plugs with the 4 points burned off completely:
Split drive belt
Dirty air filter
Hubs part # 991-341-607-81
New LF and 22,000 RF caliper, slight color difference but nothing like the complete discoloration that we had on the 997's.
Spark plugs with the 4 points burned off completely: