rk-d

Clean! Love how the Camaro and RS set each other off. Very nicely done.

SHAG

Nice. I love the diversity of a RS and that 67.

usctrojanGT3

Beast mod on that Camaro. Nice stable...now get some clear side markers on the RS.

usctrojanGT3

For all you guys with lifts in your garages, I have a few questions (I'm buying my 3-car single story unicorn home and want to put a lift in one of the stalls)...

1) Do you put the lift in first before the epoxy coating or the other way around.

2) How much total height clearance do I need if I want to lift one Porsche up and park another underneath?

3) What are good lifts to look at and what are approx. costs installed?

GregJGT3

Speaking of garage mates, our pairing are of the same RS/Camaro inspiration

GregJGT3

Sorry, mobile app would not take 2 pictures in one reply...:-(

bobaines

Martin,
1. I have been advised by both lift and floor folks to do the floor first.

2. Again I have been told I need 10' clear space min. I built my mezzanine above at 10'6" to give just a bit of extra headroom.

3. I am going with a 9000# BendPak, it is ~$2700 plus a few hundred install. There are other makes which have been talked about on this thread, I would look for one that is all US components. Key is the hydrolic system and cables. And not China steel. 220 will move up and down faster but not a big deal of time even when 110.

Hope that helps.

Just in time

Martin, I have a BendPak HD 9, it is rated essentially three times the weight of a GT3. My ceiling height is 10'3". I still have about a foot to the ceiling with the car on the lift. Lift came at about $4100 because I added the aluminum center pieces, the extended aluminum ramps (36") and the hidden air bottle. This last feature makes for a cleaner installation although I may not do it again. Installation in my area runs $700. Since I do not raise/lower the lift that frequently I went with the 110V version. I have tiled floors and the lift is unbolted.

porscheflat6

Beautiful

FFaust

Coating first give a nicer/cleaner finish. I installed lift first because I had to get it out of the way before floor finish, but it's not a big deal.

10'ish is enough but you will have the equalizing cables running on the floor. If you want the cables to run overhead, you will need 12'. That was the case for me, so YMMV, and I am talking about a 2-post; 4-post is different.

Go US-made if you can, but your friendly neighborhood seller/installer should be able to assist you.

Regardless, they sure are handy.

marcus1249

+1 for the bend pack, IMO 10'6 will allow you to park beneath but if you want some headroom and have the ability to do so 12' ceiling height makes a huge difference in usability..just from my experience a little extra height goes a long way

usctrojanGT3

Thanks for the input. I think the garage only has 9 foot ceilings but since the home is a single story home I can open up the ceiling to go higher (not sure how much higher (may have to go with a non traditional garage door opener system too). So is the lift bolted into the concrete floors or does it just stand on the floor?

bobaines

Bolting to the floor is optional, the 4 posts have kits you can use to roll them around.
Raising the ceiling could have structural implications,$$$.
I know Overhead Door has a side mount garage door opener. You will need to raise the tracks as well.

FFaust

I had to open up my ceiling to fit my lift (bought it used so had no choice). I then framed and insulated around the trusses. In the picture, you can make out the flange where the top part bolts on. When the cables are along the ground, that top part is not there but the lift is otherwise identical. So you can see that, had I had the lower cables, I would not have had to modify the ceiling.

Lift is bolted and you need at least 4" of concrete per installation manual (well mine anyway)

FFaust

Oh, and direct drive door opener (mounted to the spring shaft), so nothing along the ceiling. And raised tracks so that you can open the door even if the car is on the lift.