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Welding impact on metal strength is not theoretical. It is actual. That is why you will see failures at weld points. It does affect the metal. That being said, the actual impact on the tube strength due to the those welds may not be significant and failure may depend on the direction of forces being applied. Lots of variables here. There are lots of other weld points that could contribute to structural failure just as much (if not more) than the tack welding of the guides.
Oh I agree with you 100%. My biggest reason for not getting the guides tack welded on was because I liked the look of the collars.
Love my new Cantrell Roll Bar! Griffin Motorsports installed it perfectly.
That looks fantastic! I am going to copy you, if you don't mind. Unfortunately Schroth only makes the GT3-specific belts in silver in 3" shoulder size, NOT in the 2" HANS-compatible size. So if you want neck restraint, you need something like a NecksGen 3" to do it. I've been looking at that restraint system anyway, so might as well go all-in on the 3".
I like the collar look. Where did you get them and what size for Cantrell ?
Post #59 on the last page, man.
Originally Posted by orthojoe
The cantrell bar diameter is 1.75", but with powercoating, it comes to 1.774". To avoid damage to the bar, we had custom collars made. They were only $9.50 each for custom made aluminum ones. Email raceparts@frontiernet.net (www.ss-machining.com).
That looks fantastic! I am going to copy you, if you don't mind. Unfortunately Schroth only makes the GT3-specific belts in silver in 3" shoulder size, NOT in the 2" HANS-compatible size. So if you want neck restraint, you need something like a NecksGen 3" to do it. I've been looking at that restraint system anyway, so might as well go all-in on the 3".
Wait, what? I've got 2" hans compatible schroth GT3 specific belts.
Also, you CAN use 3" belts with hans. I used 3" belts in my spyder with my Hans. 2" is just easier
That looks fantastic! I am going to copy you, if you don't mind. Unfortunately Schroth only makes the GT3-specific belts in silver in 3" shoulder size, NOT in the 2" HANS-compatible size. So if you want neck restraint, you need something like a NecksGen 3" to do it. I've been looking at that restraint system anyway, so might as well go all-in on the 3".
I'm using the NecksGen and like it much better than the HANS. You can use 3" as you say and it has more side movement protection from what I've been told.
Good to see you posting about trivial car stuff again! I hope your recovery in Vanuatu is going well.
I try to start at or above 26, but if I set 30 or 31 hot at the end of the prior session, and the car has been sitting for a while, it winds up dropping below 26.
Thanks mate. I'm currently in NZ enjoying some first world infrastructure for a break!
I have found if you go below 26 as the tyres cool down (and this has happened to me on dry/warm days) you need to enter Race Mode. This mode seems a bit fiddly to me, often I have to ask the system to re learn the pressures prior to going out for each session. What I have been doing recently is just using standard mode and not dropping below 26 for the first session. If its a dry/warm day I find the tyres dont drop below 26 between sessions even in their nominal "cold" (20 Celcius)temp is really 24, as they retain heat. It saves alot of hassle with going into Race Mode.
OK... So I started after work. This is after 2 hours of labor.
I have completed the 'alignment' fit and secured the base plates. Tomorrow I will be trimming the side panels and re-installing bar/panels.
Here are my observations so far:
1) Pulling the panels off is very unnerving.
2) The most challenging part was pulling off the panels from the B-pillar - there's a hidden release clip that I used a 90 degree pick to remove.
3) Removing the large side panels up and off was also interesting.
On the good note - the base plates and bar fit perfectly!
The carpet cutting is the hardest part. Take your time and measure 5 times and then make the cuts. You will end up trimming more off once the bar is in place. I wanted my side panels and carpet cuts to be perfect and it takes time. Looks good so far. Also make the cuts on the side panels right up to the vertical part. I didn't have a 7/8" bit so I used a 13/16 and hogged out the hole with a disk sander.
The carpet cutting is the hardest part. Take your time and measure 5 times and then make the cuts. You will end up trimming more off once the bar is in place. I wanted my side panels and carpet cuts to be perfect and it takes time. Looks good so far. Also make the cuts on the side panels right up to the vertical part. I didn't have a 7/8" bit so I used a 13/16 and hogged out the hole with a disk sander.
Thanks!
I'm leaving all the cutting until tomorrow when I'm fresh. I've learned that doing stuff until midnight, when you don't have to, usually doesn't end well.
I'm assuming you mean 1 7/8" hole saw...
Those side panels... Bunch of WTF's going on there... Will be interesting putting all this back together. Most will be easy, some not so much.
Wait, what? I've got 2" hans compatible schroth GT3 specific belts.
Also, you CAN use 3" belts with hans. I used 3" belts in my spyder with my Hans. 2" is just easier
Operative word is in SILVER, my friend. I did call Schroth and they said they would make a custom one in silver in 2" HANS-style but the lead time was a few months.
05-01-2015, 06:19 PM
Unfortunately Schroth only makes the GT3-specific belts in silver in 3" shoulder size, NOT in the 2" HANS-compatible size. So if you want neck restraint, you need something like a NecksGen 3" to do it. I've been looking at that restraint system anyway, so might as well go all-in on the 3".
