Don't fool yourself.. you are really splitting hairs as the performance isn't that far off. Also, if you don't believe the .1 vs .2 (stock for stock) videos on RL at Laguna Seca, can ask Manthey Racing, as I did to get a better picture of the impact of various improvements right from the horse's mouth. According to their testing, like for like tires, the .1 and the .2 are very close (10 secs apart on N-ring with adding bump stops on .1 to deal with Cup R tires and nothing else). Even the trick Ohlins TTX suspension (superior to .2 OEM) helps only by 5 seconds vs the .1 stock. Aero and engine power is the rest of the gap where you will see the benefits of aero on a very fast track. For the average turn/corner on most US tracks, the amount of downforce difference even with a mod like canards is just a few lbs and relatively inconsequential (get the same effect by adding 5 lbs of weight in your frunk). The .1 spring kits all have helper springs and Manthey runs even stiffer springs on their .1 with stock sways and they say no real impact to lap times, it just may offer a little more flexibility with driving style. DSC has proven that the existing valves in the .1 shocks aren't that different from .2, and damping resistance can easily be adjusted with software to effectuate the same outcome (contact them if u want more detail).

I think for those wanting to essentially get same lap times at most US tracks, saving $40-$50k is a very viable option as a purely cost/benefit decision. For those who don't want to muck with that stuff and want to keep everything pristine OEM (which has its appeal), then maybe the $50k is worth it.

 

I was under the impression that the Solid lifters were a big factor yet you omitted it ????
The Crank is the same from what I can tell in .1 vs .2 has more oil holes drilled for lubrication.
The RPM difference is nonsense as the engine both don't produce power at those RPMs
What you should be asking is it a different engine block poking around it I cant see any difference between the 2.
Coatings worth it yes on my race engines I have these coatings and they are also on my transmissions gears they make a difference.
.2 Engine is certainly more refined but the suspension it the big difference between the .1 and .2.

Ian

 

Facts don’t tell the difference.
.2RS not only better its way better than .1RS.
But you have to drive the cars hard not cruising.

 

Solid lifters is a major difference and he clearly inadvertently omitted it.

RPM limit on .1 is really 8200 in 2-7 gears. 8800 is first only.

I can tell you that from a street driving perspective my .2 GT3RS shifts noticeably faster and crisper both in up and down shifts, turns in sharper and steering more responsive, suspension is firmer and revs quicker. Plus I like the new aesthetics of the NACA ducts.

 

Splitting hairs, but pretty sure 2-7 are 8600 not 8200.

 

Thanks. Thought I remembered it at 8200 but you could be right.

 

@op what did you end up buying?

 

Nothing yet. But most likely .2 RS non WP.

Someone a few posts back said something about the .1 RS being limited to 8600 rpm in 2-7th gears. Is this really true?

Is it also the case for .2 RS?

 

.2 is 9000 every gear
.1 is 8800 on first shift then it is 8600 for the rest

PS what color you looking at getting?

 

Thank you

LG no WP if I can, If I cant I am also looking at a white one with WP. But I am not enjoying the process. Very hard to negotiate even a penny (literally).

 

I wasn't being sarcastic.

 

I stated the shim Vs hydraulics right at the beginning - implicit being the solid lifters - because everyone is generally away of that

I went on to point out the differences in the engine - that many are not aware of

1) 9000 RPM redline
(2) 470Nm and 520HP
(3) Stiffer crankshaft
(4) larger main bearing diameters
(5) centrally located oil feed
(6) new pistons and rings
(7) plasma coated cylinder liners
(8) wider and thicker con rod bearings
(9) dlc coated rocker arms
(10) new oil separator reducing foaming
(11) higher compression ratio ~13.3:1

LOL stronger/stiffer crank, larger main bearings and con rod bearings, new pistons and rings, different cylinder coatings, higher compression ratio, better oil separation - these are features that not only produce a better engine - but ensure it can performer at a higher level for longer. What part of that don't you understand? I think its pretty obvious to most - and thats just the engine.

Just about every key area has been improved on over the .1 engine. If you can't accept that its hard to know what to say other than the facts remain the facts.

 

Done plenty of testing myself - given the only purpose for my car is motorsport - I know what the differences are on the clock and even at the closest 1s per minute is the difference between 1st and 10th and thats the closest (on same tires) in fact its usually a greater delta - after that things blow out even more as the distance/laps build.

Your suggestions are the classic false economy that you see on every forum - e.g. you can build a WRX into a STI, M2 into M3, Carrera base into GTS, GT3 into GT3 RS, 570S into 720S. Far better to have the best base to work from and frankly the engine, PDK-S-PTV-E is just so much better. So much so its actually a no brainer. I to 2s per minute is real and its a big difference. In fact to mark it accurately the .1RS is about the equivalent of the .2GT3.

As I said previously none of this matters if you are just pottering around in them - except for one thing - Porsche chucked out the .1 GT3/RS engine design in favour of the .2 why? why did they go onto to build what is widely recognised as one of the most expensive production car engines ever? and then use that as the base engine for the RSR?

If you're building a racing platform all bets are off because the cars move a long way from stock - even then you would be far better off with the .2 purely on the basis of the engine alone due to its better oiling characteristics/pressure characteristics, larger main and con rod bearings - again this is a no brainer and goes back to buying the best platform you can afford to use as a base car.

Not really a lot more point re-covering old ground - I voted with my wallet and went for the .2.

 

Why does lap times ever come up? Does ring times really matter to anyone? track days are not race days. so at some point you have traffic,lol random cars, at random speeds, with random drivers, all at their own pace (we hope) and a few trying to win a trophy, but there is no trophy. You could build a better car or pick based on better design or even what color you like the best, but to judge track day lap times or ring times cannot be a serious part of the decision making.

 

I as the OP welcome the wealth information shared here. But I do want to mention one very key thing which is for “my use case”, this car will probably see 0 to close to 0 track time. Does that mean I dont want a hardcore on the rails car as my weekend toy car? Absolutely not. I want mechanical grip and precision. That being said, I dont know if I could feel the differences between these two cars besides:

- The lower redline
- Steering feel
- Snappier PDK

Now those I care and I want the better car. All other suspension changes, I also probably care (as a car geek who likes an uncomfortable harsh ride) but I probably wont ever use them to their potential.