Dear lord, no, no, no. This is not a job for a tire shop or any shop for that matter. Trust NOBODY to do this properly but yourself. I'm shocked that Porsche hasn't been sued yet for these stupid centerlocks. You have to assume that the shop did NOT do the following correctly:

1). Tighten with wheels OFF the ground. Important. People have lost a wheel on track from not doing this.
2). Torque, unwind, and retorque
3). Reapply the optimoly paste to the mating surface off the wheel and nut face
4). Torque to the proper spec
5). Lock the mechanism (they clearly didn't)

 

Agree - I get my tires mounted and balanced with wheels off the car and do all the R&R of the wheels myself.

 

Trust who? Have my own tire machines for mounting and changing. Balancing too.

 

Just us a 1/2 inch breaker bar with pivoting head to turn the lock nut a little an it will pop right out. I use track wheels and can be changing them everyday. While that little tool works..eventually...but it can be a pain. The breaker bar nut fits pretty good and just needs a little turn or tap and out comes the lock.

 

Found the same thing on 3 of my 4 wheels. Centerlock pins only engaged halfway out on three wheels. Stuck the tool into them, applied slight pressure on tool counterclockwise and they all popped out flush. I don’t think I’ll ever trust another soul after service, it’s just too easy to double check and do your self.

 

Completely agree. Remove you wheels and bring to tire shop. Ask for the most experienced tire installer. Remove the wheel weights yourself unless you want to risk scratches on the barrels !

 

anxious with the name neurotic?

 

+1

 

What about on a factory car? Anybody ever find them unlocked on a car that's never had a tire change?

 

A Porsche dealer? I just got my car and I'm sure the tires haven't been changed, but this thread has me thinking I need to pull the caps and check them!

 

That's like asking if anybody found an improperly tightened connecting rod or [insert any factory part here] - highly unlikely to virtually nil.

 

Um...if you're going to re-torque (which I do suggest), what difference would it make to pop the lock out first? It's going to get pushed right back in when you put the socket back on the center lock nut.

Or do you mean to pop it out first if you're going to be driving it back to the shop? Then, of course, do that.

 

 

I got this off eBay to jiggle the locking cup, seems to work a little better than the OEM tool.

 

Really? I find that surprising with the rubber ring and the friction from that seemingly keeping them in there pretty tight. Maybe they weren't pushed back flush, or the rubber ring was damaged? I've done a 5-7 track days a year without issue at speeds up to 155-160 mph. None have flown off yet.