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At first I couldn't figure out why the locking mechanism wouldn't pop-up and thought I was doing something wrong, but reading through posts here realized that you just need to wiggle the hex/plastic key end of the center cap remover to get it flush.
Yep, sort of strange that wiggling a little cheap plastic tool (or not) can mean the difference between life and death, but seems to be the case...
Yep, sort of strange that wiggling a little cheap plastic tool (or not) can mean the difference between life and death, but seems to be the case...
The interesting question (and I did not find an answer) is:
Could the fact that the center pin of the screw is not in the aligned position (in REAR mode) cause the central screw to come loose? Or
is the pin of the central lock intended for security in case of incorrect tightening or a defect in the CENTER LOCK system?
It's a little hard to tell from photo. They don't look too bad, but the top right one looks odd (could be the result of lighting).
The wide contact region is correct (when it's a big problem, that usually gets very thin, like a line instead of a donut).
Not sure why the donut appears to be interrupted rather than whole, but that could be shadows or the way light reflects (or Aluminum paste residue), rather than a problem...
Another best practice I learned while doing my center locks for the first time, is while you're (un)torquing those nuts and the car is up, ensure that you are tightening so that you are lifting the breaker bar/torque wrench, putting weight on the suspension components, rather than pulling down on them as they're already uncompressed while the car is up.
I don't think this matters. The peak wheel torque applied by the brakes during normal driving is probably 1000-1500 ft-lbs. I doubt that the suspension is going to be much troubled by the 450 ft-lbs applied when you tighten the central nut.
Originally Posted by GTSpure
The interesting question (and I did not find an answer) is:
Could the fact that the center pin of the screw is not in the aligned position (in REAR mode) cause the central screw to come loose? Or is the pin of the central lock intended for security in case of incorrect tightening or a defect in the CENTER LOCK system?
These are two different things...
I have always assumed that the locking device is to prevent an improperly tightened central nut from coming off the car. I don't believe that a mis-engaged lock will _cause_ the bolt to loosen. That is to say, I believe the answers to your questions are "no" and "yes".
Originally Posted by feh
The other day on eBay, I found these OZ wheels, I think they look like they were incorrectly mounted (based on the wear on the wheel).
Or do they look right? I don't plan on buying them, just inquiring whether this is the type of damage/uneven wear we should be aware of.
They look OK to me, but there's no way I would buy used CL wheels without being able to physically inspect them.
Yep, sort of strange that wiggling a little cheap plastic tool (or not) can mean the difference between life and death, but seems to be the case...
Just use a 1/2 inch breaker bar...insert the head in the lock and just twist it a little back and forth..always works... the "little cheap plastic tool" is a pain sometimes to get the lock to release.
Just use a 1/2 inch breaker bar...insert the head in the lock and just twist it a little back and forth..always works... the "little cheap plastic tool" is a pain sometimes to get the lock to release.
I actually use one of these little 3D Printed deals - works pretty well (but I feel like it used to be cheaper):
Anyone know what size the head is for the torque solution tool? I would prefer to get a metal six (or is it 8 sided???) sided hex bit to fit. I have my drivers front that will not pop out. Tried the cheap plastic tool that comes with the car and a 1/2 breaker bar to no avail. Maybe there is another issue? Anyone run into this issue where they needed more force or effort to make it fit flush?
07-14-2020, 12:03 PM
