INTRODUCING the RENNtorq Center Lock Removal Tool for 991/997 applications
#16
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Thread Starter
Last edited by RENNtorq; 06-13-2019 at 10:32 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Drficho (12-25-2023)
#18
Agreed. This is a terrific innovation but as an average joe I can't imagine shelling out 2.2k to make wheel changes a little easier.
The following 3 users liked this post by limitedslip:
#19
Assuming that you will not need a 3/4" drive torque wrench and breaker bar if you buy this tool and most people who do the wheel removal and reinstallation themselves already have the 1/2" drive torque wrench and breaker bar, this tool will cost you more like $1,700 more than buying the 3/4" tools. Still a lot but looks more affordable.
#20
Rennlist Member
I was able to see this tool in action at the track and it's the real deal. They used it on a 991.1 GT3 and another guys 997.2 RS. Looked like a slick solution for dealing with centerlocks.
#21
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Thread Starter
#22
Cool concept, I was wondering why this doesn’t already exist.
But maybe I’m missing something: don’t you still need to hold the brakes to keep the front wheels from rotating as you torque it?
Other than reducing the amount of force one has to put on the torque wrench (a comfort concern), isn’t it not still the same “2 person job”?
(though for me it is a 1-person job plus a brake pedal clamp, which seems like it would be the same with this tool as well)
But maybe I’m missing something: don’t you still need to hold the brakes to keep the front wheels from rotating as you torque it?
Other than reducing the amount of force one has to put on the torque wrench (a comfort concern), isn’t it not still the same “2 person job”?
(though for me it is a 1-person job plus a brake pedal clamp, which seems like it would be the same with this tool as well)
#23
Rennlist Member
Asking the same question as Marty.
Does the wheel stop counter the nut tightening direction enough to balance the forces out and not apply any rotational force? Even with the forces being totally equal the front wheel assembly with this tool on it would want to turn somewhat. At the factory all that is stablized by the rig that holds their tool assembly.
Does the wheel stop counter the nut tightening direction enough to balance the forces out and not apply any rotational force? Even with the forces being totally equal the front wheel assembly with this tool on it would want to turn somewhat. At the factory all that is stablized by the rig that holds their tool assembly.
#24
^ The video of the tool in action does show that a moderate amount of brake pedal pressure is required which means that the process is still similar. I'm sure it's much less than the amount needed to break the torque with the traditional breaker bar as it uses the spoke as a fulcrum.
#25
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The difference claimed is that without the tool it requires someone to hold the steering wheel steady (as well as heavy brake pressure), but with the tool you only need a moderate brake pressure applied (by way of clamp without power brakes produced with car running) and no steering wheel holder. And you can use more modestly sized breaker bar and torque wrench (that fit more easily in the car and many people already own).
#27
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Thread Starter
Asking the same question as Marty.
Does the wheel stop counter the nut tightening direction enough to balance the forces out and not apply any rotational force? Even with the forces being totally equal the front wheel assembly with this tool on it would want to turn somewhat. At the factory all that is stablized by the rig that holds their tool assembly.
Does the wheel stop counter the nut tightening direction enough to balance the forces out and not apply any rotational force? Even with the forces being totally equal the front wheel assembly with this tool on it would want to turn somewhat. At the factory all that is stablized by the rig that holds their tool assembly.
The benefits compared to the 'long torque wrench' method are the greatest when you are doing the work on a lift with all four wheels off the ground at the same time. Using a long wrench In this scenario I have found that you need to have the car running to provide vacuum to the brake system (or have someone inside the car standing on the pedal) to hold the front wheels enough to break them loose. In addition to this you really should have someone holding onto the steering wheel to keep it centered (as there is no steering lock on these cars) so you avoid the wheel pivoting as you are trying to apply 443 lb-ft with a long, awkward wrench. Doing this without having someone holding the wheel straight is risky - if the wheel pivots when you don't expect it and the long wrench scrapes the paint off the side of your car it will be a bad day (well a good day for your favorite autobody shop). Both of these issues go away with the torque tool.
If you are working with the car on jack stands (with one side on the ground) than the issue of the front wheels pivoting generally goes away, but you will still likely need to have the car running to break the front nuts loose.
One other thing it saves you from doing is having to swap the ratchet head in and out of the 'long torque wrench' and into the breaker bar (many times if you are doing the recommended torque/loosen/torque procedure recommend by Porsche) which you need to do with the long torque wrench solution.
The bottom line is that it makes the job a lot easier and less stressful. The tech's at the Porsche dealership I worked with to beta test it were bummed when I had to 'borrow' it for a week to do some final checks before my manufacturing run and were pretty excited to have it back when I was finished.....
Last edited by RENNtorq; 06-17-2019 at 12:22 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Brocky05 (07-28-2023)
#28
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Thread Starter
The difference claimed is that without the tool it requires someone to hold the steering wheel steady (as well as heavy brake pressure), but with the tool you only need a moderate brake pressure applied (by way of clamp without power brakes produced with car running) and no steering wheel holder. And you can use more modestly sized breaker bar and torque wrench (that fit more easily in the car and many people already own).
#29
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Thread Starter
Agreed. Unfortunately just about every aspect of GT cars makes them expensive to run. I looked at using less expensive components but they all had unacceptable compromises. This tool is for the person who wants the best, reasonably affordable method. I have had requests for a version with a battery powered electric gun (similar to the factory) and the price for one of those would be $7,500+ which I thought was too much even for GT customers!
Last edited by RENNtorq; 06-14-2019 at 02:44 PM.
#30
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
One other thing it saves you from doing is having to swap the ratchet head in and out of the 'long torque wrench' and into the breaker bar (many times if you are doing the recommended torque/lossen/torque procedure recommend by Porsche) which you need to do with the long torque wrench solution